rem 700 police bolt hard to close?

I didn't read through the complete thread but this happened to me once and it was that the primers weren't seated properly ....when closing the bolt it left marks on the base of the primer but not the case...just something to check.
 
spoc said:
The bolt closes fine without a round in the chamber. When I chamber a round its fine until I start to push the bolt into the down position. I takes a fairly hard push to get it down into position. There have been no signs of high pressure in any of my reloads. I've tried trimming the cases slightly shorter and I've played around with the seating depth. The only thing that makes it a little easier to close the bolt is seating the bullet a bit deeper in the case.
Click to expand...

exactly my issue

primers are set fine.
 
I just tried it with a case I resized in a forster coax press with the lee die touching the shellplate +a tad, and it's still hard to close.

It WILL close, but not like "freely". It feels like a case that has been only neck sized 5-6 times and that is super tight in your chamber.

I will try factory ammo to see if the issue is with the die or the rifle.
If factory ammo is the same, it's the rifle, and if it's not, it's the die...

If it is the die, I guess I'll just email lee and see. If it's the rifle, what would you do? Bring it to a gunsmith to have the headspace adjusted a few thousands longer?
A bit annoying when shooting 50-100 rounds as it gets hard on the hand to close and open the bolt 50 times.
 
Kryogen said:
I just tried it with a case I resized in a forster coax press with the lee die touching the shellplate +a tad, and it's still hard to close.

It WILL close, but not like "freely". It feels like a case that has been only neck sized 5-6 times and that is super tight in your chamber.

I will try factory ammo to see if the issue is with the die or the rifle.
If factory ammo is the same, it's the rifle, and if it's not, it's the die...

If it is the die, I guess I'll just email lee and see. If it's the rifle, what would you do? Bring it to a gunsmith to have the headspace adjusted a few thousands longer?
A bit annoying when shooting 50-100 rounds as it gets hard on the hand to close and open the bolt 50 times.
Click to expand...

You could sand a couple thou off your shell holder and see if that helps, obviously won't help for factory ammo but if your reloading anyway might be just enough to make the bolt go down easier.
 
Kryogen,
I just made up a dummy round for my rifle and after I chambered it and ejected it I noticed the rim of the case has been deformed by the extractor or ejector (I always get them mixed up). I think the extractor is too big and it has to shave off a piece of the brass every time I chamber a round. I'm not sure what has to be done to fix this but maybe check the rims of your brass and see if its the same.


Kryogen said:
I just tried it with a case I resized in a forster coax press with the lee die touching the shellplate +a tad, and it's still hard to close.

It WILL close, but not like "freely". It feels like a case that has been only neck sized 5-6 times and that is super tight in your chamber.

I will try factory ammo to see if the issue is with the die or the rifle.
If factory ammo is the same, it's the rifle, and if it's not, it's the die...

If it is the die, I guess I'll just email lee and see. If it's the rifle, what would you do? Bring it to a gunsmith to have the headspace adjusted a few thousands longer?
A bit annoying when shooting 50-100 rounds as it gets hard on the hand to close and open the bolt 50 times.
Click to expand...
 
You need to take some measurements and quit guessing. Measure a fired brass from the base to the datum point. Then resize it and take the measurement again. How much is the shoulder being set back? If its one to two thou then move on.

Did you trim all your brass to ten thou under what the book says is max? How far are you seating the bullets into the case and where did that measurement come from?

If you don't have a set of calipers, go down to you local auto parts store and pick up a $20 digital set.
 
Brass was all fired in another rifle (1f brass). Probably grew a bit too big and lee die doesnt size enough.
700 police chamber is super tight.

I ordered a rcbs small base FL die and will process all brass through it for this rifle, once, and it will probably be fine after that. 40$ for the die is going to be cheaper than trashing 200 brass and then buying factory ammo to fire form my own.
 
I'm having the same issue with a Tikka in 22-250. Dies are turned down as far as they can get. I even bought a Wilson case gauge because I thought something wasn't right. All cases checked out fine.

I resized them all again and they fit a little better but the bolt is still stiff to chamber the case. These are my only set of Lee dies all my others are RCBS and don't give me any problems.

Using a Forster CoAx press also.
 
I had the same problem with my SPS Varmit. Sent it back to Gravel which does the warranty work for Remington here in Canada. They fixed the problem. It was the extractor. They replaced it and i haven't had a problem since. If you do a bit of research with google you will find this is a common problem with the sps actions.
 
I did a google search and your right it is a common problem. I took a file to the extractor and made it slightly smaller. It works a lot better now. It still scrapes a little bit of the rim but I didnt want to take too much off.

Guss23 said:
I had the same problem with my SPS Varmit. Sent it back to Gravel which does the warranty work for Remington here in Canada. They fixed the problem. It was the extractor. They replaced it and i haven't had a problem since. If you do a bit of research with google you will find this is a common problem with the sps actions.
Click to expand...
 
Take a sharpie and color a bullet all the way around down to where it meets the case, chamber it, check for evenly spaced marks...if you see any this is the bullet contacting the rifling...you're going to have to seat these bullets deeper.
What's the COAL you're using now?
 
BongoBob said:
Take a sharpie and color a bullet all the way around down to where it meets the case, chamber it, check for evenly spaced marks...if you see any this is the bullet contacting the rifling...you're going to have to seat these bullets deeper.
What's the COAL you're using now?
Click to expand...

Brass without bullets does the same. It's not the bullet. stop.
 
It's likely more pressure than this but Remingtons are "crunchy" for those not familiar with them. The extractor has to pop over the rim on closing, it's a different feel if you're used to Mausers etc, and some Rems are a lot worse than others. I know when I shot a Remington after an extended period not shooting them it took me a bit by surprise.
 
ok I tested the small base die and it's not alot better.
Technically, brass is back to minimum factory spec now... and still hard to close.

Doesnt seem to be the extractor. I feel the "pop" when it snaps, but it's not that bad.
It's "closing" the bolt once it has snapped, it needs quite a bit of force.

My old savage, it closed as well empty as loaded.

What should I do?
 
Kryogen said:
ok I tested the small base die and it's not alot better.
Technically, brass is back to minimum factory spec now... and still hard to close.

Doesnt seem to be the extractor. I feel the "pop" when it snaps, but it's not that bad.
It's "closing" the bolt once it has snapped, it needs quite a bit of force.

My old savage, it closed as well empty as loaded.

What should I do?
Click to expand...

Pull the bolt out and check to make sure it did not come loose , if so tighten it
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom