Acquired my first antique, advice please.

Yeah I was pretty sure I did my homework on that one... I'm not one to take chances. Nobody is going to see it unless they take a good hike in the bush on my private property anyway.
 
Ever roll with folks that own Model 'T's or 'A's?
Funny thing is they don't roll with worn out engines, tires or fenders haywired on.
They get them restored to how they looked & worked in the day. Not brand new looking necessarily, but nice to drive.
If you plan on shooting it, do as you wish with it.
Myself; I'd do some research and get it redone to period blued appearance.
As for being labeled a Pariah...anyone who does so isn't worth listening to IMO.
And stay away from BP subs if you can; hard to predict the outcome with period pieces. Go with BP if you can
 
I would just use corrosion X to clean it it won't clean up super nice but it will help get the rust off and it will protect it as well. Works well and it's a gun oil as well I wouldn't clean it up I like it looking that. It adds charature to firearm reblueing it's just like ever other one.
 
tokguy said:
Ever roll with folks that own Model 'T's or 'A's?
Funny thing is they don't roll with worn out engines, tires or fenders haywired on.
They get them restored to how they looked & worked in the day. Not brand new looking necessarily, but nice to drive.
If you plan on shooting it, do as you wish with it.
Myself; I'd do some research and get it redone to period blued appearance.
As for being labeled a Pariah...anyone who does so isn't worth listening to IMO.
And stay away from BP subs if you can; hard to predict the outcome with period pieces. Go with BP if you can
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All true good advise ^ except id use light smokeless loads lotsa of us do with no problems if you do use BP wash her out good it will get deep in pits and make them worse .
I agree get her treated now and she will stay good for the next 100 Years.
That gun you have has the long Cylinder they call them long straps or us Canucks do the cylinder is 1 and 9/16th long not the shorter 1 and 7/16th long. the frame is longer to.
So its a Rarer Long strap same length cylinder and frame that the 44 40 uses there rarer and worth more money than the short cylinderd guns.
I think if you had a pro refinish done the value would be just as hi if not higher.
Ive seen ones like new in the USA that were sent back to S&W for refinish they have sold for more alot more than guns in your guns shape.
before you ask S&W dont do that anymore.
The trick for you will be finding the guy who can do it and do it right. if you cant then leave it alone. spray it good with G96 so the pits dont get worse.
Watch that Electronic Cleaning cause if you take it apart and dont know exactly how to put it back together in the right order you will bust parts.
Very nice Gun.
 
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Thanks Dingus, when I started this thread I was hoping you would reply! Once I get it cleaned and lubed I am going to try some of the Fiocchi in it. I would imagine a 50rd box will last me quite a while, I have brand new handguns to pound hundreds of rounds through...

How little can I take it apart and still get away with an ultrasonic bath? Can I just remove the grips and the side cover on the hammer? Maybe separate the barrel at the hinge? I haven't even used my ultrasonic cleaner for anything yet, so I don't have much experience there. Obviously it would have to be ultra dried off afterwards with a hair drier or heat gun before I put the lube to it...
 
I wouldnt do it period.
Yes you can remove the barrel and the side cover tho them side covers can be on there fricken tight some will just fall off with a tap from a nylon hammer on the other side. watch the extractor cam dont fall out takeing the barrel off and you lose the one part of it its a two part piece so well machined it still blows me away they made stuff that precise in the 1880s. you wont notice it when you take out the Pin and screws then you will move the barrel it will fall out you will run around blameing everyone else in the house for looseing it LOL
getting the trigger gard off can be tricky and theres the trigger return spring to worry about.

use the right screw drivers for the screw slots so you dont bugger them up worse.
If its working good just oil it and use it. i dont like them ultra sonic cleaners on the old guns.
Thats just my 2 cts. some guys swear by them.
 
Alright, thanks Dingus, I'll heed your expert advise and minimize my risks. I kinda wanted to try my new ultrasonic out but I'll throw a carburetor in there instead lol. We'll see how she shoots after a conventional clean and lube!
 
He seems to only work on more modern military stuff...

I think I'll heed the general consensus and leave it alone. Now that I cleaned and lubed it the patina is growing on me. I'm glad I took the side cover off, at some point somebody had installed the mainspring backwards and instead of being hooked on that little pivot arm it was just pushing up on the back of the hammer. I don't know if it would have had enough hammer power to even fire a primer in that configuration, perhaps why it doesn't appear to have been shot a whole lot LOL
 
NB_GSXR;9220394 [QUOTE said:
I think I'll heed the general consensus and leave it alone. Now that I cleaned and lubed it the patina is growing on me. .
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That,^ put a big smile on over here!.


I don't know if it would have had enough hammer power to even fire a primer in that configuration, perhaps why it doesn't appear to have been shot a whole lot LOL
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There you go!. Another score :). And a helluva good intro to antiques, eh?.

Let us know how she shoots for you NB_.
 
I don't know what these guys are talking about..... I'll take that old piece of junk off your hands to save you the trouble.....pay the shipping and every thing... I'm a generous guy like that :D (I don't know a jealous emoticon)
 
I wouldn't take her apart, take the side plate off gently, clean her up as best you can. I just use 3 in 1, rags, bore brush, tooth brush and Q-tips, and then once the gun is cleaned up, no grit, bp residues ect. anywhere that I can get at. Then it gets a coat of fluid film inside and out for preservation.

If the gun is working well right now, don't risk losing or breaking any parts or springs.
 
Tyockell18 said:
I wouldn't take her apart, take the side plate off gently, clean her up as best you can. I just use 3 in 1, rags, bore brush, tooth brush and Q-tips, and then once the gun is cleaned up, no grit, bp residues ect. anywhere that I can get at. Then it gets a coat of fluid film inside and out for preservation.

If the gun is working well right now, don't risk losing or breaking any parts or springs.
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The side plate came off rather easily with a good soaking of Kroil and a brass punch. Like I said, I'm glad I did because the mainspring was installed completely wrong. The whole gun got soaked in Kroil and cleaned with a toothbrush and 0000 wool. Then wiped down and a generous application of Fluid Film (I happen to have a 20L pail for undercoating).

I ordered "Antique Firearms Assembly and Disassembly" from Amazon which covers this gun, in case I decide to do a more thorough cleaning I will have an illustrated guide. I'm a millwright by trade so if I have a good manual to reference I'm comfortable working on almost anything.
 
tactical870 said:
There's gotta be a rule against that.... Newbies I can accept, but 18000 posts with 15000 wrong answers it a complete PITA.
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I tend to ignore most of sunray's posts but occasionally his advice is so bad that something needs to be said to prevent a serious mistake from being made. Otherwise there is no point in trying to say anything to sunray because he never engages in a discussion and he doesn't normally comment on the same thread twice.
 
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