Installing the Loggerhead ACP adjustable cheek riser hardware on my .338LM

Kevin M.

Kevin M.

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** Edited the title of the post to make it a bit more clear as the the intentions of this project and the thread. **


So here is the dilemma.

I love my rifle and the stock it is sitting in... a Remington 700 MLR chambered for .338LM, resting in an HS-Precision stock. (This was her a long time ago...)




I now have the NF optic and SPUHR scope mount I wanted for this rifle, and have been getting good results as I work on building the rifle into what works for me.

Now, with the optic and rings combo, proper cheek weld is not possible, as the comfortable line of sight leaves the comb of the stock 3/4" under the proper part of my cheek.

Thanks to attending one of Hungry's Precision rifle seminars, I learned just how far off comfortable cheek weld I really was.

I already had one of the velcro on side bag cheek risers, which raised it by about 1/4", so at the course all the students adjusted their cheek weld with some home brew gunsmithing in the form of foam padding and duct tape. Instant, and surprisingly large improvement in the comfort of the cheek weld while sitting behind the gun for extended periods.

Now I am on the hunt for a more permanent solution to get the cheek piece to the right height.


I hate the Kydex style bolt on cheek risers. They have exposed bolts, nooks, and crannies that will snag on everything in sight while packing the rifles thorough thick brush, which I do frequently with this rifle. I will not be considering this style whatsoever.

Kydex style...

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The only viable style that suits my needs seems to be an internal adjustable cheek rising mechanism.

There were a bunch of benchrest style ones, which have an exposed thumbwheel, but I don't like exposed stuff that can be adjusted accidentally.

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I stumbled across a website during my search with a product that seemed perfect... The Loggerhead cheek riser. (Their website is partially under construction, so it is unfinished)

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The guts of it are simple too, not much to go wrong... basically you have a professional cut and inlet your stock for the hardware, and it sits completely inside the stock. It is adjustable with a single allen key, and has E clips to save your preferred height when removing the comb to remove the bolt of the rifle.

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I have been chatting with the owner of the company back and forth via email, Terry Cross, and he is very helpful describing his product and why it was designed.

I picked one up, as they are very affordable, only $50.00 US... and was just curious if anybody had any similar experiences or insight with this product or similar ones, and what your opinion would be on the suitability of the HS-precision stock for this product. (If I don't use it on this rifle I will on a custom build later anyways)

I have thus far been unable to get any answer from anybody about the inside of HS-precision stocks... as to if they are hollow or solid. (I assume solid, but don't exactly want to have a pro cut into an expensive stock before confirming this.


Anyways, I will keep you guys updated as this goes on, but was just curious about your opinions on this topic.

Cheers, and sorry for the long winded post.
 
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I have that set up in my Manners T4-A. Love it. Would like to find a simple solution to replace the Allen wrench set up though. Just more stuff to carry out in the field.
 
Very cool, simple and affordable. Pulling the recoil pad off the stock should tell you if its solid or hollow, failing that just call or email HS. If its hollow it can be filled with fiberglass.
 
Call up H-S and ask them! They should have the info you are looking for. That would be a slick set up very streamline nothing to really stick out and grab stuff. If you are unable to do this on the H-S stock you could still use a Kydex style just use different fasteners! You would have a few different options to have no knobs just Allen key. May have to make an aluminum insert for one side of the Kydex I could #### one out on the lathe for you. I could inlet your stock if I had my own mill but work will not let me bring a rifle stock in.
 
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The other thing to look out for is if the aluminum bedding runs into the buttstock. I know the B&C stock I have has 2 aluminum arms that go back into the buttstock for additional strength. Don't want to go drilling holes into your bedding >.<.
 
You may consider adding a custom fit cheek rest to the top of your new hardware.

I made mine by; putting some vasaline on my right cheek then applying some plaster soaked cotton cheese cloth (same as an old school cast)
I then squared up the plaster cheek cast(-) and placed it into the bottom of a milk carton sealed around the edges with some model clay, smeared a bit more vasaline on it and poured plaster over the top of it.
When dry I took the solid plaster casting (+) and sealed it into another milk carton, I then placed a layer of plastic sandwich wrap down inside trying to avoid MAJOR wrinkles and duct taped the edges to the outside rim of the milk carton, then I wrapped the whole thing in duct tape except for a small 3/16" hole in the top.
Through that hole I injected high density/ low expansion spray foam and allowed it to dry.
Removed the foam (-) from the carton and using contact cement glued on a scrap of camouflage T-shirt material.
The end result was a camouflaged foam block that was a perfect fit to my right cheek....you know when you are not exactly in position.

Sounds extreme but I put this on an excaliber crossbow.
 
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This product looks freakin' awesome. I would consider doing this to my rifle as well but my main questions would be the following after watching a bunch of videos and reviews I was considering getting a bradley adjustable cheek riser that's over 100$ US and I need to find a way to get it in to Canada or if there is a dealer up here. Anyways my questions about this would be:

Have you considered that the raised cheek section will either need to be cut into for removing the bolt and also constantly adjusted if it requires cleaning?

Just a couple of things to keep in mind. Thanks for posting the great product as well, I will probably be looking at doing this to my rifle myself but I think I may have issues with the accu-stock from Savage as it has the aluminum bedding block running well in to the stock if I am not mistaken...
 
So I decided what the heck, and purchased the product.

It came today in the mail, and so far looks like a nice little product. It is all machined and finished to a high level of quality.

During the time between when I ordered it and when I got it today, I stumbled across a guy on snipers hide who did a very similar build to what I was planning on.

Here is the link to it here, if anybody is thinking about buying or installing one of these, check it out here, as it is very informative on how to install the product.

http://forum.snipershide.com/sniper...-stock-integrated-adjustable-cheek-piece.html


I'll post pics afterwards, photobucket seems to be down for maintenance.
 
Willybuch said:
This product looks freakin' awesome. I would consider doing this to my rifle as well but my main questions would be the following after watching a bunch of videos and reviews I was considering getting a bradley adjustable cheek riser that's over 100$ US and I need to find a way to get it in to Canada or if there is a dealer up here. Anyways my questions about this would be:

Have you considered that the raised cheek section will either need to be cut into for removing the bolt and also constantly adjusted if it requires cleaning?
Click to expand...


The product comes with notches in one of the vertical posts to accept C-clips (included) to save your favorite height. I intend to leave the factory profile instead of notching the stock for the bolt to pass, I will just pop off the cheek riser when the need to clean arises, which is convinently done with a single hex key at the side of the stock, and then you pop your cheek rest back on, it goes right to your desired height because of the C-clip, and you retighten the hex key.
 
With a long action you may need to notch the cheek piece to allow full movement of the bolt. My Stiller required a notch in order for the bolt to come far enough back to cycle a round. AND I still have to remove the whole cheek piece to remove the bolt as that requires even more length.
 
JB weld is cheap and available everywhere. The downside is its runnier than Devcon or Acraglas gel. I would avoid any fast setting 5 min. epoxy, anything slow setting will work.
 
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