NEF accuracy

Took my 22-250 to the range today for the first time to try some 100 yard groups. I had it scoped with a really old 3-9x32 bushnell. I did have the oring under the forend, but have no idea if it made a difference or not as I was too cold to mess with it. For ammo, all I had with me was WWB 45 grn and Remington 50 grain (40 pack). It didn't like the WWB at all, shooting 3-4 inch groups but it shot the Remington 50grn stuff pretty well. Only put about 4, 3 shot groups with the remington as I was starting to get too cold. All were pretty decent. The worst group was 1.2 inches. The other 3 groups were a little less than an inch with this one being the best:
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I had our .223's to the range yesterday... My son wanted to get his sighted in for predator hunting... I have Mueller APV 4.5-14X scopes on them... I put 100 handloads through them @ 100 yards shooting 55 VM's over 25.5 grains of Varget... Sighted for +2" zero. It started snowing pretty hard, grouping was reflected by visibilty... The worse groups were in the 2.5" range, but between flurries, I shot half a dozen groups inside a quarter and two of those were inside a dime, with overlapping holes... All groups were five shots. These guns are stocked in Boyd's Sterling sets with bedded forearms and "tensioned" QD screws... I have also done trigger jobs on them. They are all ready to meet Wile E.
 
Oh, and also put 30 rounds through the Handi .30/30 with Nosler 150 BT's over 34 grains of Varget... With a 2-7 Mueller mounted, groups were consistently @ 1.5" @ 100 yards... Should make a dandy "Under-200" deer gun for the kids.
 
Calum said:
What are "tensioned" QD screws and where can they be bought?
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To "tension" a forearm screw, first relieve the barrel channel using a 3/4" dowel and 80 grit sandpaper... You willl know if this step is required if you feel any resistance at any point when installing and squeezing down the forearm... If you feel the forearm catch or bind at any point, then sand that area until relieved. You then take a 1/4X20 threaded knob with a collar that seats against the surface of the forearm, and does not countersink like the OEM screw... Then install a 1/4"X20 rod... next, cut the rod just long enough (length depends on which style forearm you are using) so that is bottoms out without tightening down on the forearm... Then gradually file down the stem until you have firm, but not tight tension on the forearm when the screw is "bottomed-out." Next, use a bedding compound on the forearm barrel channel (follow manufacturers instructions), install the barrel on the frame, install the forearm and then screw-in and bottom out your "tensioned" screw... allow the bedding compound to cure fully... You will now have a gun which can be returned to a very precise condition with regard to barrel pressures and torque values... You gain repeatable accuracy... this method far surpasses the "O-ring" accurizing tip.
 
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Ronan_357 said:
I got my handi back from being reamed to 22 k hornet and I want to get out and try it
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You'll love your Handi KH... I have three, had four but reamed one to .22 BR Rem. For brass you can just fire Winny White Box... We fireform brass with reduced loads. Lil'Gun has proven to be our best powder when coupled with Hornady 40 VM's.
 
Calum said:
Awesome info Mr. Hoytcanon.
Thank you. :)
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Your welcome...

For those interested. I make the tension QD screws and have sold dozens to CGN Handi shooters (for the cost of material and shipping), but they are easy to make for yourself. I am posting a link to the retailer that carries the QD Knobs that I use... use a thread locker to install the threaded rod (I use the Permanent strength, RED, Loc-Tite) into the Knob, so that it does not back out of the knob when screwing into the barrel lug. The 1/4"X20 threaded rod can be found at any nut & bolt store but buy the "hardened" steel rod... I buy mine in 36" lengths, which are good for about 20 or so knobs.

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/40611097

Here is a pic of what the tensioned QD Knob looks like in a bedded forearm;

 
Hoyt,
I would like to do up one of these puppies in 7.62x25 Tokarev/.30 Mauser. All I need is a rechambered
.308 bore barrel. I will buy a recent model in 30-30 and go from there. I wish to have an 18 inch barrel.

Do 'able yes? I can get the reamer no sweat.:)
 
SHELL SHUCKER said:
Hoyt,
I would like to do up one of these puppies in 7.62x25 Tokarev/.30 Mauser. All I need is a rechambered
.308 bore barrel. I will buy a recent model in 30-30 and go from there. I wish to have an 18 inch barrel.

Do 'able yes? I can get the reamer no sweat.:)
Click to expand...

Would that not simply be a 7.62-.30??? Will the .30 Mauser fully clean-up the .308 chamber toward the leade??? I would think so... Are you talking about a .308" bore or are you a ".311 purist?" Would be a dandy soda can dancer... I do believe that you would be unique in the world!
 
Seeing as the 7.62 Tokarev has a .307" bullet and the 30 Mauser uses a .308" I would
best go with a .308" barrel blank and use the 7.63x25 Mauser reamer.

The cartridges are so similar in dimenions that you can interchange them in most pistols
that use one or the other. Clymer makes the reamer for 30 Mauser.

A light weight little NEF styled like the Sportster would be the cats ass for plinking and
small to medium game hunting. SSK Industries makes Contender barrels for this round and
call it the 7.63 Mini Whisper. Oh...the fun of it!:)

WARNING for Pistol Owners:
Don't use the Czech milsurp 7.62 ammo in your pistol. It's a high pressure submachine gun round.
We got chrony readings of over 1600 fps. from my T33! Although the Tok pistol handled it ok, why beat
on the bugger with hot ammo. I wouldn't dare use the stuff in a C96 Broomhandle to be on the safe side.
 
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