You can always buy a SPS Tac and a decent scope. Practice and burn its barrel out, then buy PGW rifle.
It'll be years and years and years before he ever burns out a barrel on a .308, if ever...
You can always buy a SPS Tac and a decent scope. Practice and burn its barrel out, then buy PGW rifle.
I golf with lots of guys who own Ping or Callaway and they shoot 100+. They don't care but at very least, they can't blame the equipment. I say "buy once, cry once". I aim to get the best bang for my bucks but try to never compromise quality for saving money.
I disagree with this analogy.. High end blade irons are way less forgiving to hit that some thing with a cavity back that's deigned for amateurs. In this case having the best clubs designed for a pro would actually be detrimental to your game.
I have breezed through most of the posts and it was interesting to me how shooters I know SHOOT and compete suggest any newbie consider ALL the parts of the shooting process which include rifle, optics, and feeding it.
If the goal is to be good at any form of precision shooting, SHOOTING will be necessary. That means reloading and burning up lots of components including barrels.
As shooters, we have such a huge range of great rifles that can produce sub MOA with little work. In fact, we now have factory rifles that can approach 1/2 min AVERAGE even at longer distances. These can cost as little as $1K.
So the biggest question is what is the ENTIRE budget including the rifle, optics AND shooting.
At $1.00 to 1.50 per bang for F class competitive 308 ammo and the need to shoot a few thousand rds a season to get proficient, running costs approaching $4K per season is not out of the question these days. And that doesn't include travel, matches, cleaning and support supplies, replacing worn parts.
If the newbie can afford a $5K rig, $2.5K optic and then afford the $2 to 5K it takes to feed it, AWESOME. But most of the shooters I have met and helped run out of gas after buying the rig. Some even complain about the costs in reloading gear which is peanuts over the lifespan of the shooter.
a 1/2 min rifle whether it costs $700 or $7000 is still a 1/2 min rifle. Way too many shooters forget that the target doesn't care how much it costs to launch that bullet.
My recommendation to ANY new shooter is to work back from how proficient they want to be, to what they can afford to shoot over the year(s) it will take to get proficient, THEN to the platform(s) that can help them on their progress.
Chat with top competitive precision shooters and they likely will focus on needs to improve consistency and wind reading. The highest dollar whatever only enters the mix if it will actually do something to help their end result.
Also, many top dollar custom actions require MORE skill to maintain then those "lesser" actions suited to the average user.
Any shooter that wants to get good at this sport will be spending ALOT of money. The smart move is to spend it on things that help improve skill.
YMMV
Jerry
At least if you buy cheap you can always blame the rifle and optics for your schitty shooting. Buy a TRG or a Coyote and the blame falls squarely on your own shoulders haha.
sylencer said:To this I say,thank god for CFSAC. Or known as CAFSAC now. On the range everyday all day all summer just sending rounds down range.
At least if you buy cheap you can always blame the rifle and optics for your schitty shooting. Buy a TRG or a Coyote and the blame falls squarely on your own shoulders haha.
Ummmm...... this may be a good idea for someone new to firearme, but has really nothing to do with this thread given what the OP wrote in his initial question.The guns you mention may be high-end within their classification, but they are not the most precise you can buy. Furthermore, they are not great calibers for learning precision shooting. Quality pieces of kit, for sure but poor choices for much competitive shooting.
Wanna do it right?:
1) buy a bolt actioned 22 and learn shooting fundamentals
2) buy a bolt actioned 223 and learn centerfire shooting fundamentals
3) learn to reload
4) make/find/buy a 6BR and bring it all together into a one-hole venture.
So the debate is whether newbies should go out and buy a high end precision rifle (something like I don't know, a TRG or Coyote we'll say) or if they should buy something like a Savage or a Remington for their first rifle. Before we continue I want to make it clear that we are talking about new to precision shooting, not to shooting in general.
here we are talking about a person with firearms experience taking up precision, Your analogy would work if it was a guy already racing at the track in his street car decides to go and get a drag car, not some guy of the street goint to the track for the first time in his sports/exotic/supercar and thinks he knows everything with no experience at all.While not exactly a direct comparison, I use to see this stuff all the time when I drag raced. Guys would show up with their high dollar sports cars thinking that they held some kind of "decisive edge" - sort of like guys here who own Nemesis rifles.They would brag their car up and quote all the factory specs and BS printed in magazines and then it was time for them to take their pride and joy to the starting line where they'd promptly make themselves look like a 2-pump chump because they didn't have a clue what their car could do with a skilled driver behind the wheel.
This isn't really much different.
here we are talking about a person with firearms experience taking up precision, Your analogy would work if it was a guy already racing at the track in his street car decides to go and get a drag car, not some guy of the street goint to the track for the first time in his sports/exotic/supercar and thinks he knows everything with no experience at all.
I have also drag raced and been into cars for years, IMO what that sport shares with shooting is a lot of old opinionated people who stick together in looking down upon new people to the sport. You have to learn the same way they did years ago with budget equipment and work your way up to the top, If you show up with a high dollar build from the start you won't get their approval no matter how good you are. To them in their eyes you cheated the system and will never be an equal even if your ability is well above theirs.
I stopped bracket racing/never really got in to it because of the old guys, they don't recognise talent from anyone new ever from my experience, they call you a cheater and have tech go through your car for hours with a fine tooth comb at each event because they have become friends with the officials. Yet I have seen these old guys go to the extent of having new iron heads cast with all the old markings and an aftermarket port design inside them just to cheat in their class.Yup, there's a bit of that in racing. However, when someone has actual talent, everyone is quick to notice. When you start winning rounds, people will respect your ability. If you did drag race as you say you have, you would know full well that bracket racing (unlike class racing) has absolutely NOTHING to do with the speed of the car and that the skills of the driver and the consistency of the actual car itself to run repeatable elapsed times does.
That's a lot like shooting don't you think? A great shooter with adequate and consistent equipment can do far better than an beginner or average shooter can achieve with the best money can buy.
The track and the range are no different. Lots of guys show up with their high dollar gear, get schooled by a guy shooting a basic varmint rifle, and never show up at a match again.
Personally, I could care less what anyone else buys. I'm more concerned with what I enjoy doing.
I think there are a ton of potential deals to be made on the EE right now from new guys buying high end gear and ditching it a short time afterwards. As far as I'm concerned, they're the best thing that has happened to the used rifle market.