10/22 extraction issue FTE. = BC mags suck

elimsprint said:
Your problem has nothing to do with the extractor as the extractor has nothing to do with "extracting" a spent round. It is only there to extract live rounds and control the spent round till it hits the ejector. I would guess that your problem comes from the bolt not cycling fully to the rear on firing. You haven't said how it functions with the stock 10 rounder so it makes it more difficult to diagnose your problem. If it works well with the 10 rounder then the bolt is probably binding on the top of the mag, easy fix:) If the 10 rounder doesn't work either then it is probably a straight bolt binding issue, also an easy fix:)
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Ya but If it wont stay on the rim of the shell it slips off and end up sideways in the chamber while the bolt smashes into it.
 
ya i like jumping up to power custom titanium parts a bolt job and a buffer and i use steel lip bc mags and blazer ammo or stinger and i have no issues i dump 2 to 3 bricks a trip to the range.
 
landphil said:
The trouble with your theory is that if the extractor does not hold the spent shell properly, the ejector doesn't eject the shell outwards, thus causing the "stovepiping". You are correct in that it does not pull the spent shell out of the chamber, but it still needs hold the rim for the ejector pin to eject the case.

All I can say for certain, is that my 10/22 was very troublesome out of the box with many different types of ammo, stock 10 rnd and the steel lips mags, didn't matter. Polishing the action didn't help either, other that it now cycles subsonics. Since I replaced the crudely made stock extractor with a VQ, I have had ZERO troubles with stovepiping in thousands of rounds, compared to roughly one out of ten. It likes any ammo I've tried since the new extractor, the only grief it ever gives now is when it gets really dirty and gummy, for obvious reasons.
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I've worked on and fixed around 50 10/22's over the years and I have had to replace an extractor twice and that was on older well worn guns. I see this problem all the time and usually disassembly of the bolt and cleaning the extractor groove, spring, plunger and extractor itself (I do file a slight hook on them, lots of the stock ones also have rough edges that cause them to hang up), cures the problem. I don't think a lot of people take the bolt fully apart during the initial cleaning and it is very hard to get all the packing grease out of the extractor groove and spring/plunger if you do not completely disassemble the bolt. If not the extractor it is usually a bolt cycling problem, very common on new guns, which can be traced to roughness on the receiver and too little lube for break in or the bolt rubbing on an aftermarket mag. The stock extractors have worked fine in millions of stock 10/22's for probably billions of rounds so the design is fine it is just that usually people fully disassemble the bolt for the first time to replace the extractor and in doing so clean the groove and spring so they work properly and then say it's the new extractor that fixed the problem when in reality the stock one would have worked just fine after the clean-up. Have you retried the stock extractor in yours to see how it works?
 
elimsprint said:
I've worked on and fixed around 50 10/22's over the years and I have had to replace an extractor twice and that was on older well worn guns. I see this problem all the time and usually disassembly of the bolt and cleaning the extractor groove, spring, plunger and extractor itself (I do file a slight hook on them, lots of the stock ones also have rough edges that cause them to hang up), cures the problem. I don't think a lot of people take the bolt fully apart during the initial cleaning and it is very hard to get all the packing grease out of the extractor groove and spring/plunger if you do not completely disassemble the bolt. If not the extractor it is usually a bolt cycling problem, very common on new guns, which can be traced to roughness on the receiver and too little lube for break in or the bolt rubbing on an aftermarket mag. The stock extractors have worked fine in millions of stock 10/22's for probably billions of rounds so the design is fine it is just that usually people fully disassemble the bolt for the first time to replace the extractor and in doing so clean the groove and spring so they work properly and then say it's the new extractor that fixed the problem when in reality the stock one would have worked just fine after the clean-up. Have you retried the stock extractor in yours to see how it works?
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No, I threw the factory extractor away as the hook was tapered the wrong way and was machined with the hook rounded. I wanted nothing further to do with it after my whopping $11 investment in the VQ completely cured the problem, and yes, I had removed and reinstalled the factory extractor and cleaned the slot prior.
 
Well took her out last night and shot CCI still getting stove pipes about every 5 rounds. I couldnt find my factory mag so im waiting to see if my buddy can lend me his. If its not a mag issue i guess ill order a aftermarket extractor. This is so frustrating...


Edit: which cgn retailer sells the vq extractor?
 
zeuce said:
Well took her out last night and shot CCI still getting stove pipes about every 5 rounds. I couldnt find my factory mag so im waiting to see if my buddy can lend me his. If its not a mag issue i guess ill order a aftermarket extractor. This is so frustrating...


Edit: which cgn retailer sells the vq extractor?
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And that's after completely disassembling the bolt and cleaning out the extractor, spring, plunger groove and polishing any rough edges on the extractor?
 
never noticed any rough edges on the extractor. ill take it apart again and look closer
 
Just took the bolt apart again and there was a few burrs on the extractor. I polished and cleaned it up. The ejector looks good too. Time for a test.
 
I've had nothing but problems with the BC steel lips, every third round I have an ejection issue exactly like youve described. I have zero issues with the stock 10 round box mag. I'd like to pick up a BX-25 for a comparison.
 
FINALLY got out tonight with a factory mag and guess what! She runs flawlessly!!!! Fawk me i bought 4 BC mags too fawking junk! SO anyone know where to buy a bunch of factory mags or the bx 25's assuming they run like the factory mag.
Thanx for your help everyone!!!!
 
zeuce said:
FINALLY got out tonight with a factory mag and guess what! She runs flawlessly!!!! Fawk me i bought 4 BC mags too fawking junk! SO anyone know where to buy a bunch of factory mags or the bx 25's assuming they run like the factory mag.
Thanx for your help everyone!!!!
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BX-25s are prohibited a quick search will return why they are. Put a BC mag in the rifle with a closed both and slowly pull it back towards the rear position. Then do the same thing with the factory ten rounder, and see if there is a difference in friction. If you're feeling a lot of friction with the BC mags, you may need to file the feed lips of the mag down slightly so that there is less friction between it and the both. It sounds to me like the extractor is working fine and pulling the casing out of the chamber, but the mag is slowing the bolt down too much that it is not traveling fully rearward due to friction between the two. Had an issue similar to this with the 6 BC mags I own, took about 30 mins with a file and they all run nearly 100% now.
 
a few times it wouldnt even pull the empty out of the chamber. the factory mag was 100% do you have any pics of what you did to your BC mags?
 
oooh I should also point out I also used a promag which has much lower lips than the BC ones and it still failed.
 
zeuce said:
a few times it wouldnt even pull the empty out of the chamber. the factory mag was 100% do you have any pics of what you did to your BC mags?
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Sorry I don't have any and the mags are about 2000km away at the moment so I won't be able to help in that respect. All I did was basically radius all the edges where the bolt would be coming in contact with it as well as file down the highest portion of the mag so that it was rubbing less on the bolt. It sounds to me that this may be your problem. Put the factory mag in there and then the BC mag and cycle the bolt a few times with each and feel if there is a difference. I would imagine with the problems you're having the BC mags are going to make the bolt feel stiff and gritty when you cycle it.
 
Just went and tried it. I couldnt feel any difference between the two besides all the wiggle the BC mags have. Sloppy. The factory mag is tight
 
Has anyone tried out the HC3R Mag and clip from Wanstalls? Looks easier to load up and more reliable than the b.c.?
 
Ive heard of aftermarket mags that have an adjustable head so you can fine tune it to your gun. I may try that out.
 
tipper said:
Has anyone tried out the HC3R Mag and clip from Wanstalls? Looks easier to load up and more reliable than the b.c.?
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I have an HC3R. Had issues for the first 3-5 loads where there was a little too much friction between the ammo and mag, and when the bolt would try to strip the top round, the nose of the bullet would get caught on the front ramp/feed-lip instead of sliding up the ramp. However after running 3-5 full loads through it, I haven't had an issue since. The only 2 failures I've had since have been 2 FTF which was the 333 Winchester I was firing. Rechambered the rounds, hit them again, and still nothing. Nice defined strikes/dents on the rims of the ammo.

I think it just needed that much usage to "break in". Smooth off rough edges, and perhaps even deposit a little wax from the ammo onto key friction surfaces.
 
zeuce said:
Ive heard of aftermarket mags that have an adjustable head so you can fine tune it to your gun. I may try that out.
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I think you're referring to the Tactical Innovations mag. I hear good things about it too, but there's a CGNer or two on here that can't even get them to mate with their 10/22s properly. I believe one of them used a file to remove what he called "excessive powdercoat" and that it significantly improved the situation.
 
Plinky said:
I have an HC3R. Had issues for the first 3-5 loads where there was a little too much friction between the ammo and mag, and when the bolt would try to strip the top round, the nose of the bullet would get caught on the front ramp/feed-lip instead of sliding up the ramp. However after running 3-5 full loads through it, I haven't had an issue since. The only 2 failures I've had since have been 2 FTF which was the 333 Winchester I was firing. Rechambered the rounds, hit them again, and still nothing. Nice defined strikes/dents on the rims of the ammo.

I think it just needed that much usage to "break in". Smooth off rough edges, and perhaps even deposit a little wax from the ammo onto key friction surfaces.
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Thanks for the review Plinky. Might have to try one of these out!
 
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