10/22 Tips & Tricks

Wow!!!!!!

WOW!!!!!...I have not been around thi site for a while...it has really grown! and some cool stuff too!

If anybody needs help with tearing down and assembling a 10/22... don't forget our site at http://ruger22.com which has over 150 photos showing you how to do just about anything!
-Bob
 
guubee: There are a fair amount of people that use bolt buffers. It would be much easier and better to buy one though then trying to do something with the stock one. You can get them for about $5 or $6 :)
 
Please limit buying and selling to the equipment exchange (you will have to apply for this in your user CP). Having said that BCboy on here sells them along with Rowin (preatty sure I got that spelling wrong).
 
Please limit buying and selling to the equipment exchange (you will have to apply for this in your user CP). Having said that BCboy on here sells them along with Rowin (preatty sure I got that spelling wrong).

That would be Ronin......???
Just look for his posts in the Rimfire section.
A link to his store is in his sig.
Great guy to deal with!!
 
Is there any "off the shelf" stocks to make a 10/22 look a little better looking than original, like maybe like an assualt rifle or tactical or something along those lines. I have seen a real cool tactical on here that was custom made, I just don't have the time or expertise to do that myself.

Thanks, MSP
 
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MSP,
It is just a way to make your bolt go forward easier after you have locked it back. You used to have to push a little lever back to release the bolt, with this mod you just pull the bolt back and let it go. We do not discuss full auto conversions on this site as that is illegal!
Kim
 
MSP,
It is just a way to make your bolt go forward easier after you have locked it back. You used to have to push a little lever back to release the bolt, with this mod you just pull the bolt back and let it go. We do not discuss full auto conversions on this site as that is illegal!
Kim

Yeah, I know it is illegal thats why I had to ask haha. Thanks for clearing that up though!
 
Sniper,
Check out Jeffs (Bull's-Eye) site.
Just follow the instructions (VERY easy)

h ttp://www.rugerfan.com/buffer.html

Good Luck!! ;)
 
Does anyone have any details on how to properly add an over travel set screw to the trigger guard of the 10/22. I found lots of trigger mods but nothing telling how to do the set screw mod...

Thanks
 
Does anyone have any details on how to properly add an over travel set screw to the trigger guard of the 10/22. I found lots of trigger mods but nothing telling how to do the set screw mod...

Thanks
There are a couple of ways to do it. The easiest is to just remove your trigger and drill and tap a 6-32 or 6-40 hole in the middle so the set screw touches the back of the trigger guard. Adjust screw so front is flush or below trigger face and back touches guard after ignition. The best way is to do a cantilever trigger return spring mod and then drill and tap the trigger return plunger hole for a 10-32 set screw. That way you get rid of the stupid plunger and get your overtravel screw. Search RFC and you will find lots of posts on it.
Kim
 
I did the trigger component polishing as seen in an earlier post and hammer stoning to -2º, this brought my trigger from 7 1/4 lbs down to 3 5/8 lbs, an amazing difference with minimal time/effort and no $$$$. Going to try to replace the trigger reset spring and plunger next to further lighten the trigger as well as the overtravel mod with the set screw.

EDIT:
With the torsion spring installed and plunger/spring removed the trigger is now 2 lbs 8 ozs, exactly where I wanted it.

Thanks for all the great tips!
 
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Hey,

So I followed the instructions above on the "auto bolt release"

Still no joy, it operates the way it always did, I have compared my bolt release to the ones on the page ( I held it up to the screen) They look the same..... I used my dremmel and then polished the fresh metel to make sure there was nothing to "grab". The 10/22 I'm playing with is my dad's old one, circa the early 70's, at least thats when he "says" he got it. Will this make a difference?
 
Hey,

So I followed the instructions above on the "auto bolt release"

Still no joy, it operates the way it always did, I have compared my bolt release to the ones on the page ( I held it up to the screen) They look the same..... I used my dremmel and then polished the fresh metel to make sure there was nothing to "grab". The 10/22 I'm playing with is my dad's old one, circa the early 70's, at least thats when he "says" he got it. Will this make a difference?

I just did it on mine and it works perfectly. I noticed that it is very important to make sure that the top of the hole is not filed flat, just like the warning says. I used a round precision file to curb it quite a bit (even more than in the photo), because it didn't work properly after the first attempt either (even though I made sure it wasn't flat). On my second attempt I made almost a half-circle out of it and now it works like a champ every time. It's surprising that Ruger doesn't have it done at the factory nowdays (my 10/22 is brand new)... probably due to the fact that they're using old molds/machining settings from the 1970's or something.

I also noticed that when you want to engage the bolt to stay open, you have to pull the bolt fully back & hold it, then hold the bolt release down and let the bolt slide slowly forward until it 'catches'. Works every time. ;)

Thanks everyone for these great tips. Fifteen minutes and a little filing saved me $20+ (price of an auto bolt release off eBay) plus, most importantly, gave me an insight on how this thing operates.

:cool:
 
The best way to a perfect trigger IMHO is to do it yourself with the stock components. Anyone needing the articles on the DIY adjustable hammer and sear with pics just PM me your e-mail and I'll pass it along.
Kim
 
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