10/22 Tips & Tricks
- Thread starter Goose25
- Start date
elimsprint
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Kelowna, BC
Might be a reason to move to Supernatural BC,
Kim
Kim
lineofsight
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Lower Mainland, BC
If you feel the need to remove the safety found that the use of a Bic pen will get it reassembled in less than a minute though you will need to modify the pen for its intended use. You will need the following: vise, sawsall, vise grips, punch set, sledge hammer, micrometer, grinding wheel, tool girl, bandaids, Bic ball point pen, sharpie, internet connection and T/C R55.
1. remove safety by rotating it a quarter turn and pushing it out.
2. use internet connection to place order for replacement plunger after you lost the original (and possibly spring).
3. if plunger hit you in the eye use the bandaid.
4. shoot T/C R55 with tool girl until replacement plunger (and possibly spring) arrives.
(the put the trigger assembly in a plastic bag and then remove safety is a good suggestion)
5. place Bic pen in vise
6. use appropriate size punch and sledge hammer to remove ink cartridge from pen tube.
7. place the pen tube in vise with the last 2 inches sticking out.
8. use micrometer and sharpie to mark off 1" from the end of the pen tube.
9. use sawsall to trim the case case by 1" as marked by sharpie.
10. use grinding wheel to smoothen edges of pen where cut with sawsall.
11. place spring and plunger in trigger assembly.
12. use vise grips to hold pen case.
13. place tip of pen over / around plunger.
14. push plunger in with backend of ink cartridge.
15. have tool girl hold vise grips and ink cartridge.
16. place safety in trigger assembly.
17. ask tool girl to hold ink cartridge in place and slide pen case up slightly
18. push ink cartridge out of the way with safety
19. ask tool girl to pull cartridge and pen case out of trigger assembly
20. slide safety all the way through
21. test safety, if red marking not on the left side repeat from step 1.
1. remove safety by rotating it a quarter turn and pushing it out.
2. use internet connection to place order for replacement plunger after you lost the original (and possibly spring).
3. if plunger hit you in the eye use the bandaid.
4. shoot T/C R55 with tool girl until replacement plunger (and possibly spring) arrives.
(the put the trigger assembly in a plastic bag and then remove safety is a good suggestion)
5. place Bic pen in vise
6. use appropriate size punch and sledge hammer to remove ink cartridge from pen tube.
7. place the pen tube in vise with the last 2 inches sticking out.
8. use micrometer and sharpie to mark off 1" from the end of the pen tube.
9. use sawsall to trim the case case by 1" as marked by sharpie.
10. use grinding wheel to smoothen edges of pen where cut with sawsall.
11. place spring and plunger in trigger assembly.
12. use vise grips to hold pen case.
13. place tip of pen over / around plunger.
14. push plunger in with backend of ink cartridge.
15. have tool girl hold vise grips and ink cartridge.
16. place safety in trigger assembly.
17. ask tool girl to hold ink cartridge in place and slide pen case up slightly
18. push ink cartridge out of the way with safety
19. ask tool girl to pull cartridge and pen case out of trigger assembly
20. slide safety all the way through
21. test safety, if red marking not on the left side repeat from step 1.
umm, go back to page 1 on this thread and start reading. It's been covered as a DIY project. Your other option would be an aftermarket trigger kit or a simple target hammer kit.
Have you tried Fabsports? Give him a shout/email and see if he can order them for you.
Heat them up a bit with a hair dryer jckw....
Give them a "firm" hit with a brass punch and hammer to knock them out.
After 2 or 3 times of removing them, they'll go in/slide out a lot easier.
Good luck!
arcstarter
CGN Regular
- Location
- Lethbridge, AB
just hit them a little harder they aren't tapered... least not on mine
10/22 Tips
One thing I always checked in the Military with my issued weapons, was my magazines; did they engage the mag well cleanly, did they drop away when the mag release was pushed, did they hang up anywhere. The same criteria applies to the 10/22, probably more so now because of a flush mount magazine, I have noticed a marked difference between the newer generation rotary mags and the older [15-years or older] mags. Visually, the difference is apparent, so I checked the fit and function with my 3-RUGER's and all of my mags, sure enough engaging the mag release didn't always positively drop the mags everytime. The newer mags had the function problems, I 'test-fit' every mag with all 3 guns, it took a while but I identified the problem. The sides of the magazines were distorted from the molding process, and using Dye-Kem to highlight and mark out the high points that were dragging, I used a flat sanding block with #600 wet-/-dry to achieve a level/flat surface. The mags kick-out now with little or no resistance, ''not a huge performance gain, but for my own peace of mind WTSHTF = it's PRICELESS.''
One thing I always checked in the Military with my issued weapons, was my magazines; did they engage the mag well cleanly, did they drop away when the mag release was pushed, did they hang up anywhere. The same criteria applies to the 10/22, probably more so now because of a flush mount magazine, I have noticed a marked difference between the newer generation rotary mags and the older [15-years or older] mags. Visually, the difference is apparent, so I checked the fit and function with my 3-RUGER's and all of my mags, sure enough engaging the mag release didn't always positively drop the mags everytime. The newer mags had the function problems, I 'test-fit' every mag with all 3 guns, it took a while but I identified the problem. The sides of the magazines were distorted from the molding process, and using Dye-Kem to highlight and mark out the high points that were dragging, I used a flat sanding block with #600 wet-/-dry to achieve a level/flat surface. The mags kick-out now with little or no resistance, ''not a huge performance gain, but for my own peace of mind WTSHTF = it's PRICELESS.''
Just like other magazines, some of the 10/22 mags can use a little dressing up to help remove them from the receiver ... got this idea from another member here.
Install some magpuls!
These are Glock Speedpuls. And the fit great onto the bottom of the factory magazine.
A little bit of JB weld and your all set to go!
Install some magpuls!
These are Glock Speedpuls. And the fit great onto the bottom of the factory magazine.
A little bit of JB weld and your all set to go!
Sly Old Fox
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- In lalaland, that is Ottawa.
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Last edited:
More experience regarding sticky mags to share:
I have two 10/22s, an older .920" in a Hogue stock, and a new sporter in a new Hogue sporter stock. The older one suffered from sticky magazines; the only way to get the mag out was to push in the release and at the same time (with the same thumb) lever the rear of the mag out. Trying to pull it by the front of the mag did nothing.
I did some thread searching on rimfirecentral and found three main points:
1) The mags may be too wide or have rough spots, so sand them (mentioned above in this thread).
2) Relieve the magwell part of the inner stock so that mags don't touch (they recommend a business card thickness worth of space). In my old Hogue stock, all mags rubbed against the stock at the rear of the sides. I used a dremel with sanding drum to carefully open up the stock's inner wall enough to allow the mags to drop freely. (I had first traced the magwell's position in the stock while assembled using a sharpie.) The newer Hogue stock I own has more space built into it, so it required no dremeling.
3) Bevel the forward magazine indentation. This is the indentation in the receiver in which the front protrusion of the mag is held. I used a curved hobby knife (cheap jobmate set at CT) to cut a small bevel to the bottom half of the opening.
After making the modifications in points 2 and 3 my older 10/22 is dropping mags free without problem.
I have two 10/22s, an older .920" in a Hogue stock, and a new sporter in a new Hogue sporter stock. The older one suffered from sticky magazines; the only way to get the mag out was to push in the release and at the same time (with the same thumb) lever the rear of the mag out. Trying to pull it by the front of the mag did nothing.
I did some thread searching on rimfirecentral and found three main points:
1) The mags may be too wide or have rough spots, so sand them (mentioned above in this thread).
2) Relieve the magwell part of the inner stock so that mags don't touch (they recommend a business card thickness worth of space). In my old Hogue stock, all mags rubbed against the stock at the rear of the sides. I used a dremel with sanding drum to carefully open up the stock's inner wall enough to allow the mags to drop freely. (I had first traced the magwell's position in the stock while assembled using a sharpie.) The newer Hogue stock I own has more space built into it, so it required no dremeling.
3) Bevel the forward magazine indentation. This is the indentation in the receiver in which the front protrusion of the mag is held. I used a curved hobby knife (cheap jobmate set at CT) to cut a small bevel to the bottom half of the opening.
After making the modifications in points 2 and 3 my older 10/22 is dropping mags free without problem.
Foxamaphone
Member
- Location
- Lower Mainland
hey guys,
I'm having problems with spent shells not ejecting properly. When I'm using the ten round mag, its roughly 2 rounds out of the ten won't eject and get trapped inside the reciever of pinched by the bolt after its loaded the next round, but when I'm using the plactic 25rnd. butler creek mag, it's essentially every shot. Any ideas, ammo? mag it self? extractor?......I don't know, but fairly dissapointing for the first time out to the range with it. Any help would be greatly appreciated
Dan
I'm having problems with spent shells not ejecting properly. When I'm using the ten round mag, its roughly 2 rounds out of the ten won't eject and get trapped inside the reciever of pinched by the bolt after its loaded the next round, but when I'm using the plactic 25rnd. butler creek mag, it's essentially every shot. Any ideas, ammo? mag it self? extractor?......I don't know, but fairly dissapointing for the first time out to the range with it. Any help would be greatly appreciated
Dan
Foxamaphone
Member
- Location
- Lower Mainland
Its a brand new SR, so it could be.............
elimsprint
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Kelowna, BC
Did you completely disassemble it and clean all the shipping grease off? If not 1 demerit! And I mean the bolt, trigger group and the inside of the reciever? I use brake clean myself, it really blows the grease out of everything. DON'T get it on the plastic parts. Did you clean the barrel and chamber really well? If not, another demerit! Did you lube it properly after reassembly? Oh,oh, another demerit!!!! Somethimes a little over lubing when the gun is new is not a bad thing till it breaks in. Be sure to get the guide rod/mainspring and inside the reciever. I use a spray silicone and hold the bolt back and give a little squirt in the ejection port and up the mag well and work it a couple of times till it moves slick. What ammo?? Please don't say Winchester. I use Federal Bulk myself and it seems to be the gold standard for reliability in these guns from what I can tell. Once you get all that done let us know how it's going.
Kim
Kim
