100 yard zero

So If I'm on the bullseye at 25y I'll be two inches low at 100 yards?
No. My Savage is zeroed for 25, and at 100. I'm aiming 8 or more inches to drop it at 100 to hit the plates. And at 50, I'm holding off a bit. Worked well for the last 2 club shoots. That I came 1st and 2nd.

Every gun is different, every ammo is different, no mention if its STD/Subsonic or HV.

Best thing you can do. Put a huge piece of fresh cardboard on the target stand, slap a target on it. That way you can see if it drops low, and know it is only your shots on target. Set target at 25, shoot, adjust and zero, and then walk it back each distance, shoot, adjust zero counting the clicks as you do, make a note.

I got to do that with a couple guns, as I just bought new optics for it, and my notes got water damaged.

I mean my aperture sight, I got hash marks for my 25, 50 and 100 yard zero. Also got notes on the side of the forearm on paper.
 
.22rim fire dope chart



Here is an example for you in MOA, based on an MV of 1050fps with a 50yd zero, giving you estimates of your dope out to 300yds in 25yd increments:

25yds = +1.2
50yds = +/-0.0
75yds = -3.3
100yds = -7.3
125yds = -11.6
150yds = -16.3
175yds = -21.2
200yds = -26.3
225yds = -31.6
250yds = -37.1
275yds = -42.9
300yds = -48.8
 
Just to add to Rod's Excellent Dope Chart, Here's some Magneto Speed Chrony I did last Year with my CZ-457 VMTR. The box 'speeds' are just the mfr's average thru a 'Test barrel' and Not to be trusted as 'gospel'.

z Range Notes 7-03-2024 CHRONO.JPG

z Range Notes 9-12-24 Pg-1  CHRONO.jpg
 
No. My Savage is zeroed for 25, and at 100. I'm aiming 8 or more inches to drop it at 100 to hit the plates. And at 50, I'm holding off a bit. Worked well for the last 2 club shoots. That I came 1st and 2nd.

Every gun is different, every ammo is different, no mention if its STD/Subsonic or HV.

Best thing you can do. Put a huge piece of fresh cardboard on the target stand, slap a target on it. That way you can see if it drops low, and know it is only your shots on target. Set target at 25, shoot, adjust and zero, and then walk it back each distance, shoot, adjust zero counting the clicks as you do, make a note.

I got to do that with a couple guns, as I just bought new optics for it, and my notes got water damaged.

I mean my aperture sight, I got hash marks for my 25, 50 and 100 yard zero. Also got notes on the side of the forearm on paper.
OP, the folks replying to you here are telling you their "personal experience" with their rifles for the most part.

You are definitely a newbie, to the shooting world and it's going to be a long learning curve.

Okay Shooter is giving you advice in "layman's terms" and it's good advice.

Most people have no idea what their 22 rimfire rifles are capable of at 100 yds because what they use them for usually happens under 50 yards, mostly under 25yds.

As such they often mount poor quality scopes, which will have set "parallax" distances, which will be right around 25 yards for most 22LR rated scopes.

Look up PARALLAX in your search engine. It's critical to shooting tiny groups if you're serious about accuracy.

Most 22LR rifles are very capable of shooting small groups at 100+ yards IF they are paired with ammunition they like, scopes capable of adjusting their "objective lens" to reduce or eliminate parallax at any distance, and even good "diopter" style iron sights as long as your eyes are capable.

The first thing is to find the type of ammunition your rifle prefers.

This isn't as easy as it sounds, and some folks pay a lot of money for high end match grade ammunition. They will pay more for a box of 50, than most will pay for a brick of 500.

They do this because that ammunition will shoot consistently from lot to lot, with no or minor adjustments to their scopes.

With most off the shelf generic brands of 22rf ammo, things can and often do change dramatically from brand to brand and lot to lot.

Most 22rf ammo is temperature sensitive as well. Shooting in the cool morning will give you different points of impact than during the hot afternoon, etc.

NOT ALL 22rf AMMUNITIO IS EQUAL.

You need to join a local club, if possible, and find a mentor. This may or may not be easy.

Usually it means going to the range, watching other shooters, "politely" asking a few questions, and as often as not, "someone" will help you walk through the beginning stages.

You're going to run across those that never shoot beyond 25 yards and those who shoot out past 100yds with 22rf.

Some folks are shooting what I would consider to be "unethical hunting distances" with 22rf out past 300 yds. Even gophers HURT when you gut shoot or otherwise wound them with bullets that don't have enough retained energy to ensure a clean kill.

Have fun and KEEP NOTES.

I don't purchase high end ammunition. I prefer to put the cash towards a rifle/scope combination I can trust to shoot most generic brands reasonably consistently, so when I run out of the case of 5000 I purchase, it's not a chore to sort through a bunch of different brands to get acceptable accuracy again.

Many 22rf rifles will not shoot "hot" ammo well. Some will shoot it extremely well.

Most Ruger 10/22 off the shelf rifles are not capable of "match" accuracy, without a lot of add ons, so don't expect great things from them if you have one. They're quite good for their intended purposes though and good value for many.

This is just a very basic start to the knowledge you will need if you decide to pursue "match accuracy" shooting with a 22lr, from 25 yards to 100yds and beyond.

A good place to start, with most rifles I've shot and started others on is CCI STANDARD VELOCITY ammunition, if you can find it. Most local gun shops and some big box stores carry it. It's seldom "on sale" and it's usually more expensive than most generic brands. There are a few semi auto types that it won't cycle.

If yo get lucky, you will find a guy like OkayShooter, and the others who posted here on the range, who has enough knowledge to help you get started on the right path.

Just remember, most shooters have only shot their own personal rifles, or maybe others which belong to friends. They don't have a wide range of experience, but may know the rifle they shoot very well. That doesn't mean what they know about their "personal" rifle will transpose to your personal rifle, but it will usually give you some good info.
 
For hunting, I zero at 25 yards, and use the BulletDrop app to calculate my holds for whatever load I am using. For precision rimfire, I zero at 50, then use the same app to calculate my drop in mils and dial my scope as needed.
 
So If I'm on the bullseye at 25y I'll be two inches low at 100 yards?
No it will be about much lower. Remember that when you dial 1 inch for 100 yards that's only 1/4 inch at 25. So you dial up 8 inches from a 50 yard zero to arrive at one hundred although that will only raise your bullet 4 inches at 50. Also if your rifle is rested and you dial your crosshairs from the hole you just shot towards the bullseye you will be dialing backwards. This is a common mistake. You don't want to zero at 100, your rifle will be useless for most of the targets a 22 is made for
 
Why wouldn't you hunt ab 100m? Gophers at 100m with a .22 is easy peasy.

I've always zeroed .22's at 75yds for hunting, get on paper zeroed at 25yds first then stretch it to 75ydslive in northwestern Ontario. We shoot gophers at 3 meters. lol. Up here, small game like rabbits and grouse are 20-30 yard shots.

Why wouldn't you hunt ab 100m? Gophers at 100m with a .22 is easy peasy.

I've always zeroed .22's at 75yds for hunting, get on paper zeroed at 25yds first then stretch it to 75yds
I said I wouldn’t hunt at 100m with a 22. Didn’t say anyone else shouldn’t. I live in northwestern Ontario. Small game shots are usually 20-30 yards. Most of the time it’s more like 20-30 feet.
 
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OP - Note for Post 43 - Here is the 100-yd target from 9-12-24. D1 & 2 were at 50-yds on diff target, per the Range Notes I posted earlier. And my "Deer" still survived :LOL: D-5 measured at 0.947" Ctr-2-Ctr, and I have done a few 'better' groups of 5. But Not a lot 😉

Range 9-12-2024 100yds CZ-457-only in situ.jpg
 
have you ever seen what a 22lr bullet looks like impact?

And shooting into dirt is bad? These stupid ranges have been using it as a berm for decades! They should've listened to you instead.
I've seen lots of 22lr bullets after impact. Not bad if it's straight on, because they quite often fragment, but I've also seen them ricochet off the range base, whether it's gravel/grass/mud, or snow and they retain most of their weight as well as several hundred fps of velocity.

You can get away with what you do on remote ranges but not all ranges.

At our range, shooting "rocks" is not allowed because of ricochets. Same goes for shooting anything on the range base. In fact, targets, other than paper, tacked to the target boards are all that's allowed, other than clay pigeons on the trap range with a shotgun.

We have the "special kind of stupid" types who insist on shooting the overhead berms with their shotguns and 22rfs just to see how much damage they can do. If we catch them, their membership is pulled.

Shooting at rocks, etc out in the bush can be a lot of fun, as well as other forms of plinking, but most ranges have rules against it.
 
have you ever seen what a 22lr bullet looks like impact?

And shooting into dirt is bad? These stupid ranges have been using it as a berm for decades! They should've listened to you instead.
No idea what a 22 looks like ! Only been shooting for 60 + years . Have you ever seen a 22 ricochet ? Big difference between shooting at the ground versa a dirt berm .
 
How or what is the recommended way to zero at 100 yards considering the effect of the elements being a major factor compared to a 50 yard
Do you zero at 50 75 then 100 or what?

Just to clarify 22 LR
I zero at 20 yards on an indoor range, then dial the scope up to 100 and tune from there. SV ammo would require you to dial up between 5 and 7" depending on your rifle. Use a large backing page to mount your target on just incase they are not landing on the target. Should not take too many shots at 100.
 
.22lr is a horrible round for 100yds. I zero my .22s at 50m.
I guess thats dependant on the gun and the oIMG_2061[1].JPGperator
Bull####.
Its actually not BS. Im like a dinosaur and have used this method for almost 50 years, even though I have a laser boresighter that works very well. As stated This does work very well and especially with targets having circles and different coloured centers.
have you ever seen what a 22lr bullet looks like impact?

And shooting into dirt is bad? These stupid ranges have been using it as a berm for decades! They should've listened to you instead.
Mavbe go back to your firearms training about shooting at hard objects and ricochets. Just returned home from Saskatchewan from a gopher shoot and seen many bullets skip as many as three times after passing through the intended target. Some travelling several hundred yards. Ask Mr.Bill or 22LRGUY. Count was well over 7000 so we seen lots of evidence on what can happen with Rimfire bullets.IMG_2111[1].JPG
 
I guess thats dependant on the gun and the oView attachment 965056perator

Its actually not BS. Im like a dinosaur and have used this method for almost 50 years, even though I have a laser boresighter that works very well. As stated This does work very well and especially with targets having circles and different coloured centers.

Mavbe go back to your firearms training about shooting at hard objects and ricochets. Just returned home from Saskatchewan from a gopher shoot and seen many bullets skip as many as three times after passing through the intended target. Some travelling several hundred yards. Ask Mr.Bill or 22LRGUY. Count was well over 7000 so we seen lots of evidence on what can happen with Rimfire bullets.View attachment 965057
It doesn’t depend on the gun. .22 ammo is .22 ammo. Even the fast stuff is slow with terrible BC.
Bull####. You’re not boresighting a .22 at 100yards and being on paper.
 
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