1905 Ross Heavy Barrel

tiriaq said:
Checked my lathe. 4tpi is as far as it goes. Probably just as well. Could likely make myself crazy trying to duplicate this shank.
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Oh me too, I did a lot of thinking on how I could cut left hand 3TPI threadding, making a tool to match the butress profile is not the hardest part, left hand threads, that can be done too, but 3TPI thats where it becomes a problem.


Oh and anyone looking for barrel threadding info there is a stickey in the gunsmithing forum.
 
For those who maybe haven't seen the thread in the Gunsmith forum, here's a few pics. I figured starting a thread here might catch more Ross enthusiast's attention than in the Gunsmith forum.

This is the lathe that can do 3 tpi (and not be CNC). South Bend, made 1917-ish according to South Bend company.

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It's not labelled as being able to cut 3 tpi, but with the right gear combo it sure can. Can't recall if I used half of one gear or double of the other, but I had the right combo.......just based off the gear requirements for 6 tpi:

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It's not the cleanest, smoothest, fastest or most accurate, but for it's age it does well. Even better when you consider it's running off an electric motor intended for a swimming pool circulation pump. It has no capacitor to start it, so every time I start the machine, I have to manually spin the chuck to get it going. My max speed is currently about 540 rpm on the spindle (measured with a small hand held tach). I could adjust the motor drive pulleys and such, but then it would be harder starting.

Anyways, just some info for those who are interested. I'm not a machinist or a gunsmith either.....
 
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For some reason 1.25 hp is stuck in my mind, but I can't remember 100% for sure....

Also, had this video from one of the practice pieces a while back:

 
Anyone have any good suggestions for sights to look at for this project?

Is attaching a scope a reasonably easy task to this old action, or should I avoid any drilling and tapping of the receiver? Sights right on the barrel? Peep sights maybe....?
 
tiriaq said:
You could put blocks on the barrel for one of the vintage external adjustment target scopes.
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Coincidentally I have a Unertl in the mail, but I'm not home for a few more days. It also currently has no designated home on any particular rifle, but I didn't think of putting it on this one because I figured it needed the rear mount to be further back than what the 1905 receiver allows. Which would also result in drilling/tapping the receiver. But if it can be completely mounted on the barrel, that might be a serious option here....
 
I hope your stock making turns out well, because I will be looking for one if/when my project here proves to be working out well.

Got my scope in the mail the other day, had a look at it last night when I was home. As soon as I can get it mounted I should be able to try it out. If my target ends up looking like it got hit with buckshot, then I have a problem. If it can group well, then I'll be looking for a stock.

I've never drilled and tapped for a scope before, but the Forster jig should take care of most of the difficult parts for me. But I've also never installed scope bases for something like a Unertl or Fecker.....hopefully it's not too much trouble.
 
How did you bed it? Guy can make some pretty scary stuff group beautifully with good bedding and a good crown.

I have a feeling this is going to be a beautiful rifle when you are done.
 
flying pig said:
How did you bed it? Guy can make some pretty scary stuff group beautifully with good bedding and a good crown.

I have a feeling this is going to be a beautiful rifle when you are done.
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I didn't bed it.....I just sort of dropped it into the hacked up old stock. Had to do a little trimming myself to get the wood to clear the heavier barrel. To be honest, I don't know a thing about bedding. Essentially, it should be free floating at the moment.

Haven't finished the muzzel end either, the dull end is on the barrel because I couldn't polish it right up to the end while it was in the lathe. I ordered some bits and pieces from Brownells last week, including some crowning tools and bushings, so I should be able to clean up the muzzle end.
 
Just curious, did you rebarrel it to .303? what are these actions capable of handling for pressures? Has anyone redone one to other calibers? Are the later 1910's the same thread?

Neat work on the lathe BTW!
 
This one is currently in 303 Brit. Previously, I attempted a 243 version, but unfortunately failed. The 243 chamber was cut too deep and it had excessive headspace. With such a course thread that has a particular position for a set screw, it's basically impossible to correct for excessive chamber depth (for a rimless cartridge anyways) and the barrel was scrap at that point.

A 243's pressure may also be pushing the limits of the action (64000 psi if I remember correctly???) compared to the 303 Brit. But I was able to adapt the action and mag to feed the 243 casings as well as extract. Suppose that if the action can handle the 243 pressure repeatedly, then a 308 would be a very viable option as well.

Not sure, but perhaps what I tried with the 243 was a little reckless and I shouldn't have done it......

This is mostly what happened:

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Woh, and I guess that action shall remain to feed .303's.

I figured as the rifle was later chambered in 280 ross which is a bit closer to the 7mmRM it would have been fairly strong.

The barrel is so beefy on my 1910 it looks like it would have plenty of room for a rebore, 358 winchester I believe has lower case pressure (52K CUP on wiki)

Unfortunately there seems to be no one who wants to rebore around here anyway, and the cost seems to be prohibitive, have read a few things about it happening down in the states afford-ably though.
 
I'm just going to leave these pics here for now....

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Also, photobucket is not cooperating with me, no matter how many times I try to rotate or re-upload this second pic. It just puts it the same orientation no matter what.....sorry.

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