1911 9mm Jammed up BIG TIME! Again! UPDATE 12/9 WTF! 3rd time!

I bet I know what it is.

I bought a Norinco NP-29 9mm 1911.
(I know it's a piece of crap, but it was on sale for $249 so who cares.)

I was having horrific jam-ups. Jamming so badly that I had to hammer a squib-rod down the barrel to get it un-jammed.
The problem was the barrel link. The distance between the two holes was too long.

It throws off the gun's timing. So the slide is trying to cycle, while the barrel is still locked to the slide.
I replaced the barrel link with a shorter one. And now the gun cycles just fine.

This is a known problem. You can actually buy kits with different link sizes to try.
 
I wish I had taken a picture of the casing that was jammed......I left it at the shop.......the primer strike was normal as could be
What is the COL of the case , I have had this happen with my Trojan and I had to do a COAL specific for that pistol. It jammed up so hard I thought I would never get it to rack but finally did
 
Start by stripping the pistol and using the barrel to gauge your rounds. They should all drop in freely, such that the head of the case is flush with the barrel hood. That said, this problem usually causes a failure to go into battery, rather than locking up the gun after firing.

I am inclined to think that the problem with the gun locking up might be with the barrel link.

The stovepipes are probably a result of poor extractor tension. Take the slide off and slide a round under the extractor. It should be held in place securely, so that the round does not fall out from light shaking in any direction. If you have poor extractor tension, I would order a new one and bend the old one to tide you over until it arrives. The live fire test is to load a single round, remove the magazine, and fire it. The spent cases should consistently clear the ejection port with no magazine installed. Too much tension will prevent the case rim from sliding up under the extractor as it is fed from the magazine.

Instructions for extractor tuning can be found here:
https://www.m1911.org//technic2.htm

Thank you so much for all this great info! and everyone else who had posted on this thread its all greatly appreciated, I will start with trying a box of factory ammo and go from there, I am not a gunsmith by any means, I just know the basic tear down, cleaning, and re assembly. I hope to get out with a box of factory ammo next weekend and see what happens.
 
Because the custom ammo might be loaded for CZ and other guns that like to be loaded with short OAL. I found when I tried my shorter seated bullets in my 9mm 1911, they nose dived a lot. And running factory 1.115 was fine.
 
Happened again! Exact same thing again as I originally posted, this time was using factory 9mm 115 g federal aluminum ammo

I know I know , maybe it happened cause of the cheap aluminum ammo, but I'm not buying it, something is wrong with the gun, it ate a full mag of 9 rounds, then it jammed up again on the 3rd round thru the second mag.

I did the extractor test and the empty case is does not fall off and doesn't fall when I shake the slide in every direction

If it's not extractor, you guys think it could need a new recoil spring?

If so how many pound spring?

Like many others said. Barrel link?

As I have mostly 115 grain and 124 grain ammo

Any help would be appreciated I want this running minty and flawless!

I'm going to be a part order for it, but don't know what to buy and how many parts i should throw at this gun

Thanks in advance





 
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100% barrel link issue.

check the barrel link for a hairline crack, if not cracked, wrong link was put on it

Thank you for This!

Away from the house for a few hours will inspect for crack when I return home and also add it to my parts order, thx madcow

Can anyone inform on what lb recoil spring i should get for this, I'm gonna grab one of these too
 
Buy some new ammo. this is a ammo problem.
one fellow I know has a Springfield 9mm with a match ramped barrel, It will Not shoot your average reload, unless it is reloaded with a quality full length sizer die.
a lot of reloads you get a bit of a bulge and causes jams in tight chambers
 
I bet I know what it is.

I bought a Norinco NP-29 9mm 1911.
(I know it's a piece of crap, but it was on sale for $249 so who cares.)

I was having horrific jam-ups. Jamming so badly that I had to hammer a squib-rod down the barrel to get it un-jammed.
The problem was the barrel link. The distance between the two holes was too long.

It throws off the gun's timing. So the slide is trying to cycle, while the barrel is still locked to the slide.
I replaced the barrel link with a shorter one. And now the gun cycles just fine.

This is a known problem. You can actually buy kits with different link sizes to try.

My thoughts as well...EGW sells different lengths of links BTW.
 
Buy some new ammo. this is a ammo problem.
one fellow I know has a Springfield 9mm with a match ramped barrel, It will Not shoot your average reload, unless it is reloaded with a quality full length sizer die.
a lot of reloads you get a bit of a bulge and causes jams in tight chambers

Might try a 3rd type of ammo tomorrow, it just sucks when it jams up this hard, it's sickening to have to completely take gun apart every time, I have to beat on the barrel bushing so hard with it in a vice and hammer, it's outrageous and shouldn't be like this
 
Might try a 3rd type of ammo tomorrow, it just sucks when it jams up this hard, it's sickening to have to completely take gun apart every time, I have to beat on the barrel bushing so hard with it in a vice and hammer, it's outrageous and shouldn't be like this

Here's a hint, when it jams up next timee. Usee a flat screwdriver betweeen the breechfacee and end of the barrel hood and pry apart. What it does is give you leverage, and push thee barrel down from the links at the same time. Should come unjammed easily.

looks like a factory barrel, and should handle a variety ammo easily, even bad reloads

the link might be broken or too long, do you feel the slide grab when you rack it on an empty chamber?
 
I see when I looked that the picture again, that gun has a replacement trigger in it, maybe the fellow before did some work on it and did not know what he was doing.
as others have said , check the link, check the hood , the ribs on the barrel and in the slide, look for bad marks, burrs etc, check the chamber with the barrel out to make sure you ammo will drop in full length, without any pushing , they should drop in free when you hold the barrel up.
check the take down pin- slide release, etc.
put it all back together and slowly close the slide, everything should slide smooth.
P.S. before you pit the pin in look at the hole, link, hold the gun upside down, do the holes line up, you may have to hold the link up with small wire.
There are guys here that have likely worked on more than I have, just some suggestions.
a Colt should work 100%, My norinco's do LOL.
 
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