2025 100 yard .22LR discussion thread

Thanks, guys. Things will never change here in UK - ammunition can only be bought face-to-face, and when you DO buy it, it's logged on your FAC [PAL]. Penalties for having over your limit are draconian to say the least - seizure of your guns and a heavy fine and maybe even jail-time or both. You'll never own guns again, either. We are restricted to 25kg kg of black powder, too, unless you want to build a bunker like a dealer.

Here in UK, serious competition-level 22 rifle shooters are allowed to buy a complete batch of 5000 rounds at a time - maybe more - after assessing it at the Lord Roberts NRSA shooting Centre at Bisley on a manufacturers' open day, an occasion set up prezackly for that purpose. Most of us here have a limit of a thousand .22cal at any one time, and maybe up to 500 of each calibre of centrefire for people who use it for leisure game hunting, bearing in mind the paucity of game animals here. The Romans killed that last bears.... Professional shooters, game wardens, estate managers and pest controllers have their own arrangements, of which I know nothing, but given the ever-increasing cost of factory stuff here I'd be surprised if more and more weren't turning to home-loading who would otherwise have poo-hoo'd it before. One guy I was talking to yesterday was blithely blatting away some Norma 6.5 Creedmore as though it was .22 rimfire until a buddy reminded him it was almost CAN$3 a pop.

My biggest cache is for up to 750 7.5x55 Swiss, and that is because we could at one time buy the GP11 surplus stuff. All that died away around 2010, and there is only PPU's rather anaemic load unless you home-load, as I do. The PPU stuff is now hitting CAN$224/C, BTW. Snider and .45-70 is limited to 150 each, as is my .308Win and 6.5x55. However, it's not real hardship since I reload as I need it.
 
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If conditions aren't good (or not accounted for) anyone can get results not worth writing home about. The target below was shot with a good rifle and ammo that usually does much better.

At my range winds can pick up quickly and change directions even quicker. Sometimes I see wind from one direction on one flag and in the opposite direction on another. When winds are switchy I'm not sure what to do other than lower expectations.

For any shooter looking to try out .22LR at 100 yards, the use of wind flags is recommended. Unfortunately, reading wind flags at 100 is more than twice the challenge it is at 50 yards. If nothing else, in calm conditions wind flags can offer some confirmation that it is indeed windless.

 
I shot an attempt again yesterday with SK+.

Man, are the benches at this range ever uncomfortable for me and there's no stop to pre load your bipod. Apparently this is worse then my last submission so I'm not making an official post!
I shoot great/a lot at 50y but my groups seem to triple when going out to 100.
pxl_20250516_143635138-mp-jpg.954180
 
Jahnj0584 said:
I shot an attempt again yesterday with SK+.

Man, are the benches at this range ever uncomfortable for me and there's no stop to pre load your bipod. Apparently this is worse then my last submission so I'm not making an official post!
I shoot great/a lot at 50y but my groups seem to triple when going out to 100.
pxl_20250516_143635138-mp-jpg.954180
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Yeah DNR ranges are not really meant for practical use, sight in and leave.
 
When shooting from a bipod the legs of your bipod should be Right angle to the bottom of your stock/chassis. If not the recoil, even minimal, will cause a muzzle rise or fall. All of which is detrimental to tight groups. Hopefully I havent offended anyone!
 
Jahnj0584 said:
I shoot great/a lot at 50y but my groups seem to triple when going out to 100.
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The observation that group sizes seem to triple as distance doubles is not uncommon or unusual.

Over on Rimfire Central, shooter and poster jaia (just another interested amateur) has dubbed the distance-group size relationship the Half-Third Rule of Thumb. This means that at half the distance the group will be a third of the size. It's not an exact rule, but the idea is that the closer the target the better the results (or the further the target the worse the results).

On the subject of group size growth over distance, a comparison study was done of Lapua test tunnel results at 50 and 100 meters. This comparison is especially significant because it compares the results at both distances for the very same rounds at each distance (the group sizes are recorded electronically at 50 and 100 so the trajectories of the rounds are unaffected).

The result? On average groups grew by a factor of about 2.8 times between 50 meters and 100 meters. Of course some ammos were better than others and some rifles were better than others. Nevertheless, on average group sizes increased 2.8 times at twice the distance.
 
This is the current 2025 100 yard .22LR discussion thread.

Here shooters can discuss shooting .22LR at 100 yards. It may be helpful to potential shooters to read helpful tips to try to improve. Shooters may wish to comment on entries in the 100 Yard .22LR Challenge. Examples of target results not posted in the Challenge thread are welcome here.
 
When I begin to zero a rile I use a One-piece rest and Hold Down the stock so the rifle doesn't jump from recoil. That gives me an idea of the "rifle's " accuracy. Then, I shoot allowing the recoil to 'do it's thing' to see where the 'actual' POI is going. I may use a front rest with a rear bag OR Front and on my shoulder -both with reducing accuracy, but still valid data for different shooting positions.
 
I had mine printed at Staples while I was in the store. 200 was in the $70 range which I didn’t think was bad. Came in a nice box for storage.
 
Longstud said:
When shooting from a bipod the legs of your bipod should be Right angle to the bottom of your stock/chassis. If not the recoil, even minimal, will cause a muzzle rise or fall. All of which is detrimental to tight groups. Hopefully I havent offended anyone!
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I have been reading about loading/pre-loading your bipod. That is pushing forward on your bipod creating a bit of "tension"; supposed to reduce bounce and help maintain cheek-weld so you don't have to break the weld between shots; helps reduce target acquisition time. Info makes sense to me, I will be trying it later today if everything goes as planned.
 
Buck1950 said:
And I found packages of 65# cardstock (cover paper) for $19.50 (was only 17.50 last summer - glad I bought 2) per 150 sheets. Much better for "Record shots" altho I use reg copy paper a lot for practice @ $5-6 per 500 pgs. I've downloaded all sorts of targets from diff sites for variety.
https://www.staples.ca/products/303...1-h-astro-white-150-pack?listId=scoped_search
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Longstud said:
I had mine printed at Staples while I was in the store. 200 was in the $70 range which I didn’t think was bad. Came in a nice box for storage.
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First batch I had printed at staples, not cheap, they put it in one of their paper bags. It was drizzling at the range, damn red ink blead out of their bag and stained a bunch of the targets. I shoot them any way.

A few years ago I had yet another ink-jet printer pack it in. I decided I did not use colour enough so likely did not need it. I bought a brother laser-jet which only prints black. Cartridges are not cheap, but the big one lasts me over a year, It came with a built in scanner, only prints 8.5 x 11. I had no idea if it could handle "card stock". I grabbed a box of 75# and was quite surprised that it fed and ran that paper with no issues. It does take more power to feed it, and you can hear it working harder. It is hard wired to my desk top, but workes wirelessly from the wife's lap-top, my work lap-top and my phone. Now that i have discovered the virtue of heavier card stock for targets, I am really glad to have this printer!
 
There’s lots of different theories about shooting groups accurately! In the end the goal is to have straight path of recoil, ie your sight remaining on the target after the shot. A great number of bench shooters use free recoil with special rests and rear bags and very minimal contact with the rifle. I have been using the MPod lately and really liking it. Shot some really good groups playing with some different Lapua and Eley lot numbers!. Meroh, I noticed the mentioned stain when you posted the last bunch of targets.
 
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I get my 100 yard .22LR challenge targets printed at Staples. I order them online and pick them up the next day.

There are different printing options available. With 65 lb card stock, I select the least expensive option under the Print Colour -- Black & White (the others are Rich Black & White and Colour). For quantity I order 100 at a time.

Looking at the pricing on the Staples website today (see the image below), the price for 100 appears to be $36.00 (or $0.36 per copy) plus tax. (As I recall last year the price was $0.20 per copy.)

At $0.36 per copy the price may seem high. But perhaps it's not. By comparison Lapua Center X currently costs about $0.40 per round. If SK Rifle Match were available, at last year's pricing it would be about $0.23 per round.

 
You might also check local printing businesses. For low quantities it probably won't make sense, but if you get, say, 500 at a time a local printer will likely beat Staples. Maybe not by a lot, but probably enough to consider. Plus you'd be supporting small business rather than corporate.
 
Meroh has the right idea, I have a laser printer but it 'died' (err#9) can't fine a repair shot for it, and likely not worth the repair cost. Those carts were about $100 and good for a few thousand prints. My inkjet costs about $100 per year for cartridges but the black alone is about $45 for ca 500 pages - and the paper I mentioned above comes to 15.3c / page. Comes to about $25/100, when I make them, with NO gas to Staples store and I only print how many I want - of whatever target I want. My inkjet printer also scans to file, Fax (like anyone ever does that nowadays), will print 'Photo Quality', prints via Wifi, etc . . .
 
Rains too much here to use an ink jet printer. And colour laser printers are a bit pricey. I need colour targets for various reasons. Before that I was using a black and white laser to print mine. Very economical. I'd still be doing that if I didn't need colour ones now.
 
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