.22 groups at 100 yards

Shot this yesterday at the McMurray Fish and Game range BEFORE my V Block broke
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Measures just under 1 inch center to center to center with a 10 shot group (Best group of the day) 7 of the shots under 1/2"
 
I've measured a pile of groups and I can tell from here, that group on the Ace of spades is at least 1.25 inches center to center. 22 holes at the very least are .218" across. So 5 of em lined up touching edge to edge will give you 1.090" center to center.
And looks like there is more than enough room between the outmost holes on your card .
Center 6 holes looks close to 1/2 inch not including the shot out to the right. Playing card is 2.5 inches wide. Line up the holes and you will see my point.
Nice shooting for a rimfire none the less!!
 
Randy B said:
I've measured a pile of groups and I can tell from here, that group on the Ace of spades is at least 1.25 inches center to center. 22 holes at the very least are .218" across. So 5 of em lined up touching edge to edge will give you 1.090" center to center.
And looks like there is more than enough room between the outmost holes on your card .
Center 6 holes looks close to 1/2 inch not including the shot out to the right. Playing card is 2.5 inches wide. Line up the holes and you will see my point.
Nice shooting for a rimfire none the less!!
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Sorry, I should have posted with calipers for reference
My deck of cards measured 2.25" across not 2.5, that might be what threw you.
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A 22 LR measures 0.222" diameter
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The distance from outside to outside of the left fliers measures 1.178"
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The distance outside to outside main group to farthest flier is 1.148"
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My largest spread is 1.178" outside to outside minus a full diameter of 0.222" gives me a center to center distance of 0.956"

Please tell me if I calculated it incorrectly as this is how I determine grouping all the time and it would be very embarrassing if I had it wrong this whole time.
 
Holleyman said:
Please tell me if I calculated it incorrectly as this is how I determine grouping all the time and it would be very embarrassing if I had it wrong this whole time.
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Looks good! But one minor thing I would do is - instead of measuring the bullet and finding the .222 diameter measure the actual size of the holes it makes in the paper (including the lead marks around). Although the size is .222, i usually find that the size it makes on the paper ranges from about .19 to .223 depending on the type of ammunition. A fairly minor detail but othewise looks good :)
 
Looks much better with the calipers for referance! Damn chinese playing cards screwed me up sorry as I said nice group for sure. What ammo was that??
 
Impressive grouping! Is this an out of the box 10/22? And if so,which model - 10/22T ? Maybe time to dispose of the 40x and re-equip with one of these.
 
No out of the box, quite a few tweaks (Thanks to CGN and Rimfire central)

Trigger work, bug hole tuner, bedding, BC stainless HBarrel, Bell and Carlson stock...

It is more than I was hoping for out of a semiauto rimfire.
Would love to convert it to 17Mach2 and see what it can do.
 
I have great results at 50 & 75 yards, but I can't seem to break into the sub 1" group at 100. The closest I can manage is 1.32"..... and that is if I measure center to centre and use every trick in the book to "pare" down the group size once its on paper, so its actually closer to 1.65"

I have this cool little target tree (from WSS) I started out at 50 yrds with it, then moved it out to 75 yrds. I usually get 19 out of 20 hits at 75 yrds (not that hard considering that the paddles are 2" squares & my bi-pod) and I had a chance to try it out at 100yrds, just about impossible to hit without a full rest. When I use the rest I usually hit it 4 out of 5 times at 100yrds

Here is some pics of the tree......

Targettree1.jpg


Targettree2.jpg



Oh yeah btw, I am shooting a Savage MKII FV and a re-barreled & trigger jobbed 10/22..... My goal of making a 10/22 as accurate as my Savage is just a little bit shy of being done...... I see some fiberglassing in my future......

Cheers!
 
horseman2 said:
Where did the 1.178 come from? I read that as 1.78. Now the group is over 1.5. When you start handloding . . . do not rely on that caliper.
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You just don't know how to read a dial vernier caliper. You would be hard pressed to find better measuring equipment than Mitutoyo.
 
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LOL. Not only is the photographic evidence questioned for validity, but the proof is then discounted as being inaccurate.

Next time maybe just say you shot a 1/2" group at 200 yards and don't bother trying to back it up with anything, as you'll apparently have an easier time getting people to believe it. :rolleyes:
 
I like the spray of secondary projectiles from the lowest shot on the strike of the staple or tack. GOOD shot !
 
I don't know how you guys get groups like that. Are you all using rests/bipods?

I'm shooting a Remington 597 (plus VQ hammer and 9x scope) with CCI Minimag ammunition off my elbows and the best I'll do is 6" or so.



Edit: hammer, not trigger.
 
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Soli said:
I don't know how you guys get groups like that. Are you all using rests/bipods?

I'm shooting a Remington 597 (plus VQ trigger and 9x scope) with CCI Minimag ammunition off my elbows and the best I'll do is 6" or so.
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First off, in the quest for tinier groups, most shooters will start off with an action of good accuracy repute:

IE: Remington 40X, 541 or Winchester M52 maybe.
Perhaps a Suhl 150, (if one can afford it) or at least an Anschutz.
{there are many well made rifles to choose from indeed} Use well selected ammunition, proven in your rifle to be of match quality, maybe Eley of various brands, or Federal match, Lapua etc.
All you need next, is a good solid bench, with a rest or bipod at a range, good optics & a windless day.

Edit: Other rifles mentioned here, Ruger bolt action and custom barrel, Savage Mk2, Ruger 10-22 Target, CZ452, Cooper Arms, BSA Martini, Mauser ES350b.
 
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