223 target rifle, savage or rem, 20 or 24-26 barrel?

Kryogen

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223 target rifle, savage or rem, 20 or 24-26 barrel?

is there a point having a 24-26 inch barrel or 20 will do just the same?

http://www.tacticaloperations.com/SWATbarrel/
According to this, for a 223 or 308, 20 inch is enough.

So should I go savage or rem 700?

700p ltr or 700 sps tactical? whats the difference ?

vs savage 10 precision (painted black I guess)
 
If I was starting over and could only have savage/rem. I would go savage as you can change barrels down the road yourself. There is enough aftermarket support for gadgets for all brands so that is a moot point nowdays. And for barrel length I would always go longer, I have been shooting for a long time, even with ear protection having muzzle blast as far away as possible is a good thing. There is a lot of difference with short barrels vs long barrels for noise.
 
223 target rifle, savage or rem, 20 or 24-26 barrel?

is there a point having a 24-26 inch barrel or 20 will do just the same?

http://www.tacticaloperations.com/SWATbarrel/
According to this, for a 223 or 308, 20 inch is enough.

So should I go savage or rem 700?

700p ltr or 700 sps tactical? whats the difference ?

vs savage 10 precision (painted black I guess)

What do you want to do with it?
 
the longer the barrel the higher velocity the round exits. Faster bullets are flater bullets and have less time to be effected by wind.

Savage you get get top match grade barrels prethreaded for a savage. Remington you can not. Savage you can change the barrel your self, Remington you need a gunsmith.


Once you shoot a select match grade barrel you will never want to bother with a factory rifle for accuracy again.
 
223 barrel lenght

Savage 30" F/TR with the 1/7 twist will get you the most out of a 223 bar-non except for a custom build 1/7 the 80gr bullets in a 223 are far the best
http://www.savagearms.com/firearms/model/12FTR

https://s3.amazonaws.com/savagefiles/firearms/models/900/J8cSG4G73_QB1YcLLYK.png
 
For shooting at 600 yards or closer, a 20" barrel is just fine. At longer distances, the somewhat higher m.v. from a 26" or 30" barrel can help, however there are factors much much more important than barrel length (they are barrel twist rate, and bullet choice).
 
I plan to shoot no further than 300 yards with the 223.

I will eventually have a 300 win build for 300+ anyway.

With the right twist and bullet you can get your .223 accurately out to 1000 yards. You don't need a .300 Win Mag, paper targets are not that tough.
 
With the right twist and bullet you can get your .223 accurately out to 1000 yards. You don't need a .300 Win Mag, paper targets are not that tough.

I don't cheap out on my paper targets. I print them off on the heavy 24 pound paper... 300 Win Mag is required to punch a hole through that stuff!!! None of that recycled stuff for me!!! ;)
 
Savage: the replaceable barre (as already mentioned), easily replaceable main spring (with lighter weight or modify and replace if need be), accutrigger works well (helps focus when engage inner blade which also preloads sear so breaks crisply), easy to strip bolt, easy to find single shot followers. However, after market stocks a little more scarce.

Went with a 26" stainless fluted tube, works well enough (but not match grade).
 
There is far too much experience being shared in the Precision Rifle forum lately, Maynard. We should just be quiet and leave the "experts" to their craft.

On the old "Fullbore List" forum they were called "Expurts". I know lots of guys that won't even post here any more.
 
If you are using the rifle as a walking varminter, balance is more important than it is if you are shooting solely from the bench or from bi-pod prone. The barrel length in that case should be determined by the weight of the barrel and its effect on the over all balance and handling characteristics of the rifle. Having said that, a sporter barrel 22"-24" in length usually results in a nice handling rifle. A heavier contour barrel will produce a similar balance at 20".

Its generally accepted that a shorter barrel is stiffer, and that a stiff barrel produces better accuracy then a whippy one. The question then is, can you make use of the difference in real world shooting or is the difference theoretical? Again, that depends on how the rifle will be used. From a sandbagged rest at a paper target, you should be able to detect tighter groups from a stiffer barrel (all things being equal) but if shooting from field positions at live targets, don't count on it.

Then we have concerns about flatness of trajectory and wind drift as a result of choosing a shorter barrel. Trajectory is a non issue, if you have to add an extra click or two of elevation to your scope, its not like you have the other barrel there for comparison, so it makes no difference, provided you have enough elevation adjustment in your scope for the range at which you're shooting. Compensating for wind drift is less precise and matters even less. A stiff full value Churchill cross wind will drift a 52 gr bullet from a .223 about a foot at 100 yards and a 100 fps either way doesn't change that much. If you want to shoot in windy conditions, select a bullet with a higher BC if your twist will handle it, otherwise reposition to make the shot.
 
I plan to shoot no further than 300 yards with the 223.

I will eventually have a 300 win build for 300+ anyway.

I loved the Savage model 10 FP. It came with a 24" barrel, and it was good for me to 800 yards with my 77 gr SMK over 24.2 gr of Varget load. I know there are people pushing the .223 to 1000, with custom chambers long throats etc, pushing 90 gr bullets, but that wasn't for me.

I switched it up later for a custom Shilen select match barrel done in .260 Rem, finished to 30", on the same Savage action. Now it's all good out to 1000! Lots of components available, forgiving, super efficient round.
 
.223 52 grain will shift 12" at 100 yards with a full crosswind? really? that much....i dunno i find that hard to believe. I dont know any better but that seems a bit drastic. Is that from your experience?

If you are using the rifle as a walking varminter, balance is more important than it is if you are shooting solely from the bench or from bi-pod prone. The barrel length in that case should be determined by the weight of the barrel and its effect on the over all balance and handling characteristics of the rifle. Having said that, a sporter barrel 22"-24" in length usually results in a nice handling rifle. A heavier contour barrel will produce a similar balance at 20".

Its generally accepted that a shorter barrel is stiffer, and that a stiff barrel produces better accuracy then a whippy one. The question then is, can you make use of the difference in real world shooting or is the difference theoretical? Again, that depends on how the rifle will be used. From a sandbagged rest at a paper target, you should be able to detect tighter groups from a stiffer barrel (all things being equal) but if shooting from field positions at live targets, don't count on it.

Then we have concerns about flatness of trajectory and wind drift as a result of choosing a shorter barrel. Trajectory is a non issue, if you have to add an extra click or two of elevation to your scope, its not like you have the other barrel there for comparison, so it makes no difference, provided you have enough elevation adjustment in your scope for the range at which you're shooting. Compensating for wind drift is less precise and matters even less. A stiff full value Churchill cross wind will drift a 52 gr bullet from a .223 about a foot at 100 yards and a 100 fps either way doesn't change that much. If you want to shoot in windy conditions, select a bullet with a higher BC if your twist will handle it, otherwise reposition to make the shot.
 
223 55 grains bullet will drift 1 inch per 10 mph wind at 100 yards.

1 inch at 10mph, 10 inches at 100 mph... (but you won't be shooting outside)
 
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