.22LR Precision / Long Range Trainer?

DILLIGAF said:
Sold my S3 for a Nightforce, But I have and S2 and S1 on couple of my .22's, I'm actually thinking of picking up another S1 for my wifes RAR to replace that horrible Nikon P22, For the money they are hard to beat. SII is overkill for a .22 ... lol...

Groups are awesome at 50 yard, after that not so impressive. lol.... Its my most accurate .22 I have, Beats the Ruger American rimfire hands down. beats all 3 of my 10/22's, including the VLEH.

Here is my S1

10362376_10152830746738552_2249721720172777400_n.jpg
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DILLIGAF What Sightron model is that & where do you find them? I need to buy 2 more rimfire scopes for my wife & kid.
I'm a Leupold guy & don't like cheaper scopes so Bushnell, Nikon, Simmons, Tasco, Vortex & so on are not worth looking at to me.
 
Brocolt said:

DILLIGAF What Sightron model is that & where do you find them? I need to buy 2 more rimfire scopes for my wife & kid.
I'm a Leupold guy & don't like cheaper scopes so Bushnell, Nikon, Simmons, Tasco, Vortex & so on are not worth looking at to me.
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Got it here last summer when our dollar was good http://ww w.4scopes.com/sightron/riflescopes/si-hunter/sit-31006.html

But the exchange rate sucks right now
 
I use my 22 as a practice rig. Its a standard mk II FV that shot great out of the box (0.5" at 50 yards roughly). I put it into a Sharp Shooter Supply target stock and the groups opened up. Piss poor inletting on a $300 stock was to blame. I've since fixed it and my groups have returned to what they were in the tupperware stock. In my experience the tupperware stock was just fine although the comb is way too low.

I am a better shooter than the gun now. I bought a NS 522 or whatever they're called. Currently working on a stock for it. If it doesn't shoot better than the Savage I'm just going to bite the bullet and buy an Anschutz.

The one nice thing about the Savage is it has the same feel as my centerfire rig.
 
Well, all recommendations aside, practice is key.

It is not easy to learn how to use a trigger, especially when shooting from a rest with a straight stock. IMO, there is a reason why BR rifles have a pistol grip.

I don't see why you cant hit 0.5 inch at 50 with existing equipment, but you wont do it overnight.

I am building a CZ 453 for 50/100y iron sights BR right now. BRNO match sights and proper BR stock (Klinsky) are the first thing to happen.

When I can outshoot that, I will consider a Anschutz.

C
 
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Cardamonfrost said:
Well, all recommendations aside, practice is key.

It is not easy to learn how to use a trigger, especially when shooting from a rest with a straight stock. IMO, there is a reason why BR rifles have a pistol grip.

I don't see why you cant hit 0.5 inch at 50 with existing equipment, but you wont do it overnight.

I am building a CZ 453 for 50/100y iron sights BR right now. BRNO match sights and proper BR stock (Klinsky) are the first thing to happen.

When I can outshoot that, I will consider a Anschutz.

C
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Pratice is the whole idea behind this project.

My remington shoots around 1/2" at 50 with the RWS ammo in the pic on the first page.


How often do you guys clean your barrels?

I haven't cleaned the barrel on the remington since I bought it.
 
rimfire rifles are so picky it isnt funny. cleaning, ammo, torque, etc all vary greatly from gun to gun. if you want accuracy you need to have a log book.
- in general start off with cleaning to find what your gun likes. most rimfires dont like to be perfectly clean. give it an ok scrubbing and then start shooting groups measuring them afterwards. when you see the groups start to level off you know you are in the sweet range. this will give you a good baseline for your group size.
- give it a quick cleaning with just a couple patches and maybe one pass with a brush. see how your group sizen are after that. if you can get back into your sweet spot in 10-20 rounds thats ideal.
- next up is ammo. from a cost perspective i would start off with the subsonic NA 'target' rounds. you may get really lucky and one of those shoot like a dream. i would recommend only shooting lead bullets non-jacketed. this is important for maintaining your barrel at its optimum crud filled level. after the cheaper mid grade stuff start working your way up. get 50 rounds of a bunch of different ammo and start shooting. you will be amazed how well it shoots with match grade euro ammo.
- when you have found a lot your gun likes buy a bunch. use your current groups with the new ammo as a new optimized baseline.
- start playing with torque on your screws. they can change the harmonics and can make a difference. personally, invest a decent amount in a proper torque wrench. those yellow stumpy ones we all have arent meant for accuracy.

at this point its all about keeping a log. know how many rounds you have shot since your last cleaning. have a constant cleaning routine so post cleaning your bore will the same each time. to keep bore conditions as similar as possible try to stay with the same types of ammo. if you start feeding it cheap stuff which is a lot more dirty it will mess up your routine. this is why i have multiple guns. sometimes i just want to mess around and use cheap ammo (although the cheapest i use is federal champion, remington target, or CCI SV), if thats the case dont use the good setup.
 
Margucci said:
rimfire rifles are so picky it isnt funny. cleaning, ammo, torque, etc all vary greatly from gun to gun. if you want accuracy you need to have a log book.
- in general start off with cleaning to find what your gun likes. most rimfires dont like to be perfectly clean. give it an ok scrubbing and then start shooting groups measuring them afterwards. when you see the groups start to level off you know you are in the sweet range. this will give you a good baseline for your group size.
- give it a quick cleaning with just a couple patches and maybe one pass with a brush. see how your group sizen are after that. if you can get back into your sweet spot in 10-20 rounds thats ideal.
- next up is ammo. from a cost perspective i would start off with the subsonic NA 'target' rounds. you may get really lucky and one of those shoot like a dream. i would recommend only shooting lead bullets non-jacketed. this is important for maintaining your barrel at its optimum crud filled level. after the cheaper mid grade stuff start working your way up. get 50 rounds of a bunch of different ammo and start shooting. you will be amazed how well it shoots with match grade euro ammo.
- when you have found a lot your gun likes buy a bunch. use your current groups with the new ammo as a new optimized baseline.
- start playing with torque on your screws. they can change the harmonics and can make a difference. personally, invest a decent amount in a proper torque wrench. those yellow stumpy ones we all have arent meant for accuracy.

at this point its all about keeping a log. know how many rounds you have shot since your last cleaning. have a constant cleaning routine so post cleaning your bore will the same each time. to keep bore conditions as similar as possible try to stay with the same types of ammo. if you start feeding it cheap stuff which is a lot more dirty it will mess up your routine. this is why i have multiple guns. sometimes i just want to mess around and use cheap ammo (although the cheapest i use is federal champion, remington target, or CCI SV), if thats the case dont use the good setup.
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Whats your take on pillar and devcon bedding. I've done all my precision centerfire rifles.

The wood stock seems to be pretty soft.
 
little_airwolf said:
Lol try $2100 for the 7-4
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Don't be obtuse. I think I know what I own. It's a 7-2 KO version 5. It's like a 7-4 "mini me" same trigger and action, but shorter hammer forged barrel and scaled down stock. No biathlon sights or sling included. InterAmmo had them in stock until recently for $1150.
 
22forever said:
Biggest improvement to the FVSR would be putting it into a Boyds laminate stock, the tupperware original is way too flexible. Check out Rimfire Central in the Savage rimfire section for trigger improvements. Try and get some SK Standard + ammo, I've always had good luck with it. Try as many types of ammo that you can find, when you find one that that groups 1/2" or under at 50 yards buy as much of that lot # you can.
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I've got the same set-up... FV-SR bedded and free floated in a laminate stock, I shoot Winchester T22, Remington sub-sonic, cci quit and SV, SK std+ etc.. all works pretty good!

I also like to lob them out at the 300 yard gongs! which in all honesty kind of takes the fun out of shooting the .223 at the 300 yard gongs.
 
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sk8snwmx said:
I've got the same set-up... FV-SR bedded and free floated in a laminate stock, I shoot Winchester T22, Remington sub-sonic, cci quit and SV, SK std+ etc.. all works pretty good!

I also like to lob them out at the 300 yard gongs! which in all honesty kind of takes the fun out of shooting the .223 at the 300 yard gongs.
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More info please!

What scope are you using? Still the factory 0 moa base?

Are you using a ballistic calculator and dialing for drop? Or just holding over what you figure should work?

What size groups are you getting at 50 yards? 100 yards? 300 yards?

Thanks!
 
hometownhero said:
No 22lr ammo has a jacket on it. There is a copper wash that can be scraped with your finger.
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Actually Remington did develop a FMJ .22 round for military training purposes many many years ago. It now seldom seen except for collectors :p Sorry hometown hero :d, but you are correct there is only copper washed available now.
"i would recommend only shooting lead bullets non-jacketed." Just add this one to the ignore list.
http://w ww.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=571145&highlight=metal+jacketed+22 (take the space out of the w ww)
 
K0na_stinky said:
Whats your take on pillar and devcon bedding. I've done all my precision centerfire rifles.

The wood stock seems to be pretty soft.
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if you are looking at something high end dont touch it unless you are very sure about what you are doing. things like coopers and schutz are pretty accurate already. they will out shoot you any time. at 50 yards with good ammo they are able to do 0.1" groups.

if you have lower end stuff there are usually much better stock choices and often bedding will play an important role. if you are looking to get the most accuracy out of something like a 10/22 pillar and devcon bedding will help a lot. because there is only a single point of connection between the screw and action. this is why i would love to have a rear tang option on the dlask's just like the kidd's do. for bolt actions its a little more difficult. its all experimentation. once you have your baseline with the good ammo then you can start worrying about torque, pillars, bedding, pressure pads, etc to squeeze that little extra bit out. having a decent gun, lots of practice, and the right ammo will get you 90%+ of the way there (if not 95%). the extra stuff will get you the last little bit. to take things even past what i have mentioned you can even get a powder scale and sort the ammo by overall weight to shave another 0.01" off your group size (not really as much of an issue with you start using the match grade stuff).

hometownhero said:
No 22lr ammo has a jacket on it. There is a copper wash that can be scraped with your finger.
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yea thats what i meant. i couldnt think of a better word to describe it at the time than jacket. wash is better. dont use that stuff. generally avoid anything that doesnt come with plastic trays separating each round if you are looking for quality and accuracy.
 
22forever said:
Actually Remington did develop a FMJ .22 round for military training purposes many many years ago. It now seldom seen except for collectors :p Sorry hometown hero :d, but you are correct there is only copper washed available now.
"i would recommend only shooting lead bullets non-jacketed." Just add this one to the ignore list.
http://w ww.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=571145&highlight=metal+jacketed+22 (take the space out of the w ww)
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Ya I seen that post. The odds of getting any of that are very rare. And nothing other then that was jacketed.
 
What are some different options for scope mounting on rifles with dovetails?

Right now I'm using some really cheap aluminum rings that clamp right on the dovetail. With my rifle zeroed at 50 yards I'm roughly 30MOA from the center of the windage adjustment. That nearly has my scope maxed out. I like the idea of the Burris Zee rings but it doesn't look like they make the ones with the off set for mounting on dovetails.

I would also like to cant my scope down about 30MOA to get more "up" elevation travel.

So far the only product I've come across is one made by BKL Technologies. Has any one tried them?

http://www.bkltech.com/BKL-1-Wide-Adaptor-Blocks-p/bkl-566.htm



Today I picked up some RWS R100 ammo. Hopefully it shoots good. It most definitely costs a lot.
 
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