22lr rifle cleaning

Well, I finally read through that whole article. There's a lot of interesting information.

His details on using bore guides and hardened steel cleaning rods makes a lot of sense. I've been looking at going that way at some point when my Dewey's wear out anyhow.

It's also hard to argue with the evidence seen in the bore scope pictures.

I like his use of nylon over bronze brushes as well. Got to get me some of those.

The method of using a slightly trimmed down jag so the first couple of wet patches don't run hard makes a LOT of sense. The idea being to LIGHTLY rub away the contamination rather than press it against the metal surfaces. Then follow it up with tighter patches to grab and remove the stuck on stuff.

The funny thing is that according to the stories old time match shooters hardly ever cleaned. Now according to RRD apparently this has switched to cleaning after ever couple to four cards or 50 to 100 rounds. It almost seems like an about turn.

However he does raise a few good points. I just need to figure out how I'm going to best apply them. Some of my rimfire guns simply are just not that easy to break down. And it's not something I'd do after ever session.

A good well made muzzle mounted bore guide would be a nice way to start. It would allow for safe cleaning from the muzzle on things like my Henry lever rifle and Ruger semi. Hmmmmm.... maybe that would be a new good use for threaded muzzles other than as a place to mount a fancy looking flash hider or fake silencer.... :D
 
Well, I finally read through that whole article. There's a lot of interesting information.






However he does raise a few good points. I just need to figure out how I'm going to best apply them. Some of my rimfire guns simply are just not that easy to break down. And it's not something I'd do after ever session.


For me, it is not the breaking down of the guns that is the problem, it is the amount shot. A typical session for me is 75 rds at most. (one shot, one bull). So doing a deep cleaning is hardly worth the effort. So right now I am just running a dry patch through it at the end of the session to take out all the loose fouling and keeping a track of the round count and my perceived accuracy fall out. I figure after 500-1000 I will deep clean and see where that gets me.

When I read that rods warp if not stored vertical I called BS. Then I went and checked mine. New rods are now on order thanks to Accurate Action.

Shooting guns is easy. it is everything up to the firing pin fall that is hard.
 
Ok so if degreaser Before oil breaks down the oil, what if I simply spray oil into the action and work it back and forth after each session?

I have one semi that my main priority is that when the zombies come, it works, flawlessly, guaranteed. And of course I want my baby to last forever. Accuracy is secondary, as the zombies will be close range before I engage. (please discuss guns, not silliness of zombie preparation). This gun will not be used much, as it's job is simply to be ready.

I have a bolt that I will use lots and accuracy is key, as it's for paper punching and rabbit getting. Obviously I'm not afraid to pull the bolt put for cleaning.

But I'd like to avoid tearing down the semi... "if it ain't broke; don't fix it"

Does a bore snake with an embedded wire brush wear the barrel? I'm sure this has been answered but I suck at identifying types of metals.

Is bore snake with brush wise to dry barrel before shooting? If not, how do I draw the patch through? Or do they have snakes without brush?

I apologize for my ignorance and appreciate the advice.
 
Ok so if degreaser Before oil breaks down the oil, what if I simply spray oil into the action and work it back and forth after each session?

The degreaser doesn't break down the oil, it simply is a solvent and thins the oil out. So old oil is thinned and flushed away along with the fouling. The trick is to not put new oil in right away. Drain and let it dry THEN work in your new oil. Simple.

The issue is that spraying in a degreaser such as brake cleaner or Remington Gun Scrubber strips ALL the oil away from any area that gets any sort of significant amount of the solvent flushing. So unless you're equally as vigorous with the oil you can have unprotected metal in parts of the action.

One way around that is to use a cleaner such as the cheap to make Ed's Red soup. Along with the solvents there's a little ATF. Enough so that when the excess drains away and the solvents dry that there's a light film of protective oil left behind. It's not a replacement for a touch of better oil here and there where needed but it'll protect against corrosion. It's also a darn good general cleaner for the guns. Eats through the fouling and unburned powder like a hot knife through butter.
 
Ok so if degreaser Before oil breaks down the oil, what if I simply spray oil into the action and work it back and forth after each session?

I have one semi that my main priority is that when the zombies come, it works, flawlessly, guaranteed. And of course I want my baby to last forever. Accuracy is secondary, as the zombies will be close range before I engage. (please discuss guns, not silliness of zombie preparation). This gun will not be used much, as it's job is simply to be ready.

I have a bolt that I will use lots and accuracy is key, as it's for paper punching and rabbit getting. Obviously I'm not afraid to pull the bolt put for cleaning.

But I'd like to avoid tearing down the semi... "if it ain't broke; don't fix it"

Does a bore snake with an embedded wire brush wear the barrel? I'm sure this has been answered but I suck at identifying types of metals.

Is bore snake with brush wise to dry barrel before shooting? If not, how do I draw the patch through? Or do they have snakes without brush?

I apologize for my ignorance and appreciate the advice.

Then you have way more oil in there than is good and you need to get it out. Don't overthink this. Dry snake through the barrel after shooting and wipe down the outside and a teeny squirt of lube inside if the action starts to feel stiff. I try to keep the bolt spring/guide well lubed and they usually run flawlessly. You can remove the brush from a bore-snake but I have never done so. I just use a clean dry snake on my semis after shooting and only disassemble them when the action gets so full of crud that they start acting up, usually 1000-1500+ rounds.
 
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