- Location
- Beaverlodge, Alberta
I just figured out how to cut the 3 TPI Ross threads on my Clausing lathe. Super excited, can't wait to cut a tool and start making practice stubs.
3 TPI Ross 1905 barrel threads
- Thread starter flying pig
- Start date
I just figured out how to cut the 3 TPI Ross threads on my Clausing lathe. Super excited, can't wait to cut a tool and start making practice stubs.
- Location
- Beaverlodge, Alberta
A good one Zuke? They are so hard to find. One of my favorite Ross' is the 05-R, and so few of them shoot because of barrel wear. Now that I know my machine can cut the thread it open up a world of possibility for them. I can't profile them yet though, still need to find or build a taper attachment, or take a blank to my friend who has a bigger Colechester with a taper attachment.
- Location
- Beaverlodge, Alberta
Nice!
- Location
- WMU247 near Edmonton
well that is good news, I have a 1905R that destroys brass. Barrel is a mess.
but I see a little problem with your threads, the Ross is a 3 TPI left hand thread...
but I see a little problem with your threads, the Ross is a 3 TPI left hand thread...
So many projects, so little time.....otherwise I might have done a couple barrels by now. My first one is still sitting on the bench waiting for attention.
Looks like a good start though, just need to change directions. I think making the cutting tool was the easy part for me, and I made mine to cut the full width of the thread. Always still needs some filing touch ups afterwards.
Looks like a good start though, just need to change directions. I think making the cutting tool was the easy part for me, and I made mine to cut the full width of the thread. Always still needs some filing touch ups afterwards.
- Location
- Beaverlodge, Alberta
Yes definitely, cut it right hand just playing with it to figure out the gearing I needed. to run the lead screw twice the speed of cutting a 6tpi thread took a bit of thinking.
I'm contemplating cutting the thread in a few stages. Cut the angle first then cut the bottom out. Worth a shot and may be easier on my machine. I got the 3TPI part figured out, and I've taken rough measurements. I pulled a pooched barrel off a 1905-R action for measurements. I'm going to make a few 'barrel stubs' out of mild steel to practice the thread and bit of milling involved. Then time to buy a barrel blank and 303 reamer.
I'm contemplating cutting the thread in a few stages. Cut the angle first then cut the bottom out. Worth a shot and may be easier on my machine. I got the 3TPI part figured out, and I've taken rough measurements. I pulled a pooched barrel off a 1905-R action for measurements. I'm going to make a few 'barrel stubs' out of mild steel to practice the thread and bit of milling involved. Then time to buy a barrel blank and 303 reamer.
I've been using a die grinder to cut the notch for the set screw and the little dish out at the bottom of the barrel that helps the bullets feed. The other notch at the breech end (for the extractor), I usually use a grinder to get it rough cut and then file it smooth.
It can be a frustrating thing to deal with. Takes patience to cut the thread and it can be screwed up pretty quick, as I found out a couple times on practice pieces.
I don't do huge cuts when I'm threading. I've never actually counted, but it probably takes me about 30 passes to actually get the final cut.
It can be a frustrating thing to deal with. Takes patience to cut the thread and it can be screwed up pretty quick, as I found out a couple times on practice pieces.
I don't do huge cuts when I'm threading. I've never actually counted, but it probably takes me about 30 passes to actually get the final cut.
- Location
- Beaverlodge, Alberta
Ha ha you were right Ssapach, did screw up the first one. That wasn't 3TPI I cut, it was 2. I've got it this time though. Building a combo gear set, 64/48 to 32/16 for .375 overdrive
3 TPI is moving along pretty quick, unless you can turn down your spindle speed to 10 rpm or something. I think mine runs about 50-60 rpm in low range, but once you engage the half nut, it moves along pretty quick still. If you happen to engage ever so slightly in the wrong spot, it usually breaks something and screws up the threads. Happened a few times to me, luckily only on practice pieces so far!
- Location
- Beaverlodge, Alberta
I can run mine at 45, seemed ok on the 2tpi. I have a reversing switch, so I simply leave my half nuts engaged and reverse the machine to a start point after backing my cross slide off. I roughed one out at 2TPI last night (have to go buy some key stock tonight and make a combo gear set now that I know where I messed up). It turned out pretty decent, and the lathe had no troubles at all taking 0.005" cuts. I'll obviously go lighter when doing the real deal though. You can see on the edges of the thread that this was a pretty ham fisted attempt after I figured out it was the wrong pitch.
- Location
- Beaverlodge, Alberta
Progress: I was trying to achieve the thread pitch with one overdrive, but wound up having to make a combo gear set up. Was actually quite a bit of work, but it's done now and works well. 3TPI on the nail. Wound up with 64/48 on first set (used as single overdrive it produces 6TPI on my lathe with 8TPI lead screw). Then added an 80/40 overdrive to split this in half.
- Location
- Beaverlodge, Alberta
Another update, she's pretty well there. 3TPI is achieved. So is the cutter working (I have to grind a relief on it yet for next time so it doesn't touch the barrel). I made a stub that fits the receiver, although it's still a test piece.
I also made a new T nut and base plate set up for my tool post. It really increased rigidity and it's all doweled together so the tool cannot turn while cutting this low TPI thread. It works slick.
I also made a new T nut and base plate set up for my tool post. It really increased rigidity and it's all doweled together so the tool cannot turn while cutting this low TPI thread. It works slick.
Last edited:
maple_leaf_eh
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
If you keep doing these threads enough, you'll get a couple right! That is a strange shape indeed.
Someone (yes, another unattributed piece of interweb wisdom) cautioned that some of the published barrel threads in the popular books have mistakes. If your project seats nicely into a known receiver, then you are using correct dimensions.
Someone (yes, another unattributed piece of interweb wisdom) cautioned that some of the published barrel threads in the popular books have mistakes. If your project seats nicely into a known receiver, then you are using correct dimensions.
