300 win mag bullet choice for moose

With a .300 win mag (as long as you're not shooting at super-sniper mr. tacticool bragging rights distances) pretty much any quality bonded, partition, or monolithic bullet should get 'er done. The only thing that I would be cautious of is older, non-bonded cup and core style bullets that may fragment a bit too explosively if you're at short-ish ranges.
 
Nosler Partitions have been doing it right for over 70yrs but have been sidelined a bit by other very good boutique bullets, none of which do anything better than a Partition.

I agree. And for me nothing beats the 200gr version. Except in timber when you are shooting under 300 yards. In that case I like the 220gr Partition. My .300 loved those 220’s and H1000

If you’re worried about a 2 dollar bullet you should be buying beef off a farmer, not hunting.

Right ..... The price of a good bullet should be the last thing going through your mind whilst taking aim at a moose.

As a long-time hunter of those great tasting "Swamp Donkeys" I endorse the Nosler Partition or Accubond. Anyone who is too tight to spend a few extra bucks on
a decent bullet that guarantees stellar performance, even on nasty angles, should reconsider their priorities. [ Scirocco II, TTSX, A-Frames all are great too] Dave.
 
As a long-time hunter of those great tasting "Swamp Donkeys" I endorse the Nosler Partition or Accubond. Anyone who is too tight to spend a few extra bucks on
a decent bullet that guarantees stellar performance, even on nasty angles, should reconsider their priorities. [ Scirocco II, TTSX, A-Frames all are great too] Dave.

The only thing that the TTSX and other monometals have going for them is they don't leave fragmented lead in the meat. That's my main reason for using them, aside from the fact that the TTSX has yet to give me anything other than a one-shot, DRT kill. I know that this isn't always the case, and yes there are examples of their failure, yadda yadda, but that's my experience thus far. Just put another deer in the freezer this week with one.
 
It seems funny that some question a large magnum with a high quality bullet, when a few decades ago chambering like the .35 Rem were looked at as the slayers of all large beasts.
 
My son just took a small bull moose with a 180 gr Partition from a 300WSM. Hit the shoulder as it was turning, took out both lungs and grazed the top of the heart. We found the bullet under the far side skin and it weighed only 113 gr. I suspect it lost a lot of it's bulk in the shoulder blade. We will be on the lookout for hard stuff in the meat.
 
My son just took a small bull moose with a 180 gr Partition from a 300WSM. Hit the shoulder as it was turning, took out both lungs and grazed the top of the heart. We found the bullet under the far side skin and it weighed only 113 gr. I suspect it lost a lot of it's bulk in the shoulder blade. We will be on the lookout for hard stuff in the meat.

That is about right for a Partition 60 - 70% retained weight is quite normal. [113 grains is 63%]
They frequently lose the front core, but the rest of the bullet remains intact.

I have shot well over 100 head of Game with Partitions, and they are very reliable. Dave.
 
Last week a pair of 6.5mm 140 NBT'S from a 6.5 Rem Mag, blew right through a large cow moose... don't overthink your bullet selection, overthink the shot placement. Any sturdy hunting bullet will get the job done when placed properly.
 
Last week a pair of 6.5mm 140 NBT'S from a 6.5 Rem Mag, blew right through a large cow moose... don't overthink your bullet selection, overthink the shot placement. Any sturdy hunting bullet will get the job done when placed properly.

I cut a new "hunting" ballistic tip in two lengthwise, and compared it to the older version [not labelled "hunting"]
The new design has a considerably heavier Jacket, and looks just about exactly like the same weight Accubond,
but of course, there is no bonding in the NBT. I believe this is a very decent C&C type of bullet from Nosler. Dave.
 
I've used the browning bxr and bxc because they were on clearance at CT for a buck a round, plus they had buy X$ get .125X in CT money, plus a browning mail in rebate. They grouped well but so far have only shot it at paper. You may be overthinking this. If it groups well, go for it. That 185 gr projectile out if a 300 win will put any moose down with good shot placement.
If you meant is the browning bxc a good enough for moose because you don't relaid ND it's either available or cheap or both then go for it. If you meant are there better options at full retail price, the answer is yes, probably. I doubt the moose will be able to tell the difference.
 
I cut a new "hunting" ballistic tip in two lengthwise, and compared it to the older version [not labelled "hunting"]
The new design has a considerably heavier Jacket, and looks just about exactly like the same weight Accubond,
but of course, there is no bonding in the NBT. I believe this is a very decent C&C type of bullet from Nosler. Dave.

Yup... that has been my experience with the .257" 115, 6.5mm 140, 7mm 150, .308" 150 and 180 grain. Good performance on game... very little difference on flesh from what I see with the Accubond, which I also use alot.
 
Agreed, the BXC is a new one for me too, but is intriguing in its design. If you do use them, report back your results!

That being said, hard to go wrong with Accubonds. I've had terrific luck with them shooting well from my rifles once I dial in the right powder weights. Terminal performance is fantastic.

I agree 100% with this ^^^^^^^^^^^^^
 
My brother in law and my nephew just shot two bull moose, One with the 300 WSM, and one with the 30-06.
Both shoot the 180 Partition. Two very dead moose with perfect performance from both rifles.
"Old reliable" Partitions are still hard to beat. Accubonds are carrying a similar legacy as more game is taken
by them. Dave.
 
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