303 reloading

I've been using Imperial sizing wax for many many years. A small tin lasts almost forever, it seems. Wipes off afterwards really easy, too, with a paper kitchen towel. The merest smidge seems to do the trick for me, and I've never had a dented case.

tac
 
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I have used bulk Remington 123 grain bullets intended for the SKS in the .303 for target loads out to 300 Meters. They will perform very well with the right load, and the last serious .303 Match I attended, of the 12 prizes I ended up with 6 of them using these loads.

The reason I use a Brass washer is that I can set the lock ring on the sizing die for full length sizing, then by using the washer to raise the die slightly, it will neck size the case and/or work the case slightly. If I manage to get some range pick-ups or obtain some fired brass that does not enter a rifle chamber, then I can simply take the washer out and screw down the die for full length sizing. I do not have to adjust the lock ring to do this.

If you are shooting only a couple of .303 rifles, it does pay to keep your brass segregated for each rifle. A large plastic jar or container can be bought for a couple of bucks at one of the "Dollar" stores and a magic marker used to identify which rifle the cases fit. With range pick ups or brass you buy at Gun Shows or wherever, take a bit of time and try it in each of your rifles BUT CLOSE THE BOLT GENTLY AND DO NOT FORCE IT SHUT. If the brass enters easily, then put it in the proper container, but if it is a bit oversize and will not enter a chamber, then put it in a box so that you can full size it ONCE.

Take about a four inch piece of wire, grind a point on one end, then take a pair of pliers and bend the pointed end at a 90 degree angle so that it sticks up about 1/4 inch. Then take a small piece of wood dowel, drill a hole in the end about an inch deep, and epoxy the long end into the hole making a sort of pick. You can put the pointed end into a fired case and by pushing it against the inside wall and moving it back and forth you can feel if it "catches" on an inside crack that will cause a case seperation. Most cracks will start within about an inch from the base and will be completely around the inside of the case.

Keep the pliers handy on the workbench. When you find a case with a crack on the inside of it, take the pliers and crimp the case firmly across the center of it, and thus avoid the temptation to use it "one more time."

Buy yourself a .303 ruptured case extractor. This will help you get the front part of the case out of your chamber easily, because you did not pay attention to the paragraph above and reloaded a suspect case "one last time."

I also like the LEE three die Collet type die sets, but I replace the LEE lock rings with a set screw type of lock ring in most cases. If you use a turret press such as a LEE press, it is easier to buy a new turret plate, set the dies up once, then simply switch plates for different calibres.
 
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It is almost mandatory, that if your going to reload .303 and full length resize that your first purchase is a broken case extractor. Life is so much simpler if you have prepared in advance!
 
Another vote for Imperial sizing wax . The guy who got me started reloading insisted I use it and I'm glad I took his advice. 30 plus years of reloading with never a stuck case or a dent.
 
I really appreciated the advice. I'm definitely going to look up the Remington bullets for the SKS Buffdog mentions. Are they readily available? I'm only shooting a Ross right now, so the stretching and case head separation isn't as much of an issue as with Lee-Enfields. I'm going to try to nickle trick though.

I only have 25-30 cases so far. I like to start small till I get the hang of something. Once I sort out the intricacies, I can up my output. I reload because I enjoy it, not because it saves me any money.
 
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I just want to expand on some of buffdog's very good reloading comments and methods. A thick washer placed under any full length resizing die die will turn it into a neck sizing die. And this saves money and the need to buy neck sizing dies.

If you buy a Hornady Cartridge Case Headspace Gauge you only need to buy one gauge for all calibers. Below is the Hornady case gauge in the front and Wilson case gauges in the rear.

gauge002_zpsd2792ffa.jpg


With the Hornady case gauge you are measuring from the base of the case to the shoulder of the case. With this gauge you measure your fired length and then adjust your die for the correct shoulder bump. Meaning if you have several Enfield rifles your loading for by using the gauge and writing down your individual chamber lengths you will not need to use each rifles chamber as a case gauge.

I stopped using the bent wire/paper clip for checking stretching and thinning in the base web area of the case. I now use the RCBS Case Mastering Gauge below for checking for thinning and prevent case head separations.

IMGP5204-1_zps5590eee6.jpg


Below is a factory loaded once fired Winchester case, it stretched .009 on the first firing and the Enfield rifle it was fired in headspace was just under .067. With this case and its rim thickness the rifle had .009 head clearance or "air space" between the bolt face and the rear of the case.

IMGP4521-1_zpsa603b8a2.jpg


What I'm getting at above is not all cartridge cases are made equal and made of the same quality brass. I had the least amount of case stretching with Prvi Partizan, Greek HXP and Remington cartridge cases, and the worst were Winchester. I'm not criticizing 'ALL" Winchester cases, I'm just saying SAAMI civilian commercial cases are not made to British military standards.

I'm not also criticizing anything buffdog had to say in his posting, I'm retired, have nothing to do and all day to do it and buy more newfangled gadgets than Buffdog. I also used Buffdog's same methods for many, many years and they are tried and true methods. I just like spending money on new reloading gadgets so I don't get bored in my "Golden Years".

Your postings Buffdog are always informative and show you knowledge and experience with the Enfield rifle.
 
Kirk1701 said:
I really appreciated the advice. I'm definitely going to look up the Remington bullets for the SKS Buffdog mentions. Are they readily available? I'm only shooting a Ross right now, so the stretching and case head separation isn't as much of an issue as with Lee-Enfields. I'm going to try to nickle trick though.

I only have 25-30 cases so far. I like to start small till I get the hang of something. Once I sort out the intricacies, I can up my output. I reload because I enjoy it, not because it saves me any money.
Click to expand...

I'm an American and don't have any Canadian coins and I was just guessing and hoping a Canadian 5 cent piece is thick enough. Also if you use the washer trick Buffdog explained in his posting you can spend the 5 cents toward buying the washer.
:cheers:
 
Yep. Too much lube. No big deal. The dents will come out upon firing and cause no issues. The case on the right is in need of serious cleaning too.
"...where should the die stop to just neck size?..." There's no pre-set stop. It's a trial and error thing. You fiddle with the die until it neck sizes only. You'll have to FL resize again sooner or later though. And all new cases or cases fired out of another rifle require FL resizing.
"...using the..." Doesn't matter which lube is used. It's how you apply it. A lube pad is best. Roll the cases on it up ad back and it's done.
 
sunray said:
Yep. Too much lube. No big deal. The dents will come out upon firing and cause no issues. The case on the right is in need of serious cleaning too.
"...where should the die stop to just neck size?..." There's no pre-set stop. It's a trial and error thing. You fiddle with the die until it neck sizes only. You'll have to FL resize again sooner or later though. And all new cases or cases fired out of another rifle require FL resizing.
"...using the..." Doesn't matter which lube is used. It's how you apply it. A lube pad is best. Roll the cases on it up ad back and it's done.
Click to expand...

I'm going to FL size these cases since that's what I know how to do. I'll explore the neck sizing in subsequent reloadings.

I don't clean cases. I don't see the point. I keep them free of loose debris and unburnt powder and just load away.
 
Try neck sizing so only half the neck length gets sized. You will see the mark on neck to show how much got sized. Clean the case and chamber it. If it chambers without resistance, or with only a bit of resistance, that is all you need. this way the shoulder does not get pushed back and brass will last longer.

Size a few more that length and test them, too, before doing all the brass.

To lube the case, put them in a round pail (2 liter ice cream container works). Smear a 1" worm of lube around the inside of the pail, put on lid and swirl the brass. Voila! All cases with a light coating.
 
Does anyone know where to buy a 303 BROKEN CASE EXTRACTOR? I've fired many 1000's of rounds of hand loads and never had a problem, till last year. (1 case! 1st of many?) Thanks for the help.
 
bigedp51 said:
When the case gets hard to chamber you can use a .303 case forming die as a shoulder bump die and just push the shoulder back .001 or .002.

Below is a case forming die and my finger is keeping the fired case from falling out of the die. Meaning this die will only touch the shoulder of the case and not size the body of the case or the neck.

caseformingdie_zpsd75208f9.jpg
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Ed,

May I ask you what is the make of your .303 British case forming die that you use as shoulder bump die ? It looks like as if it could be a Redding die (custom die of course) but I would not bet the farm on it.

Forster makes bump dies but not in .303 British, as you already well know. RCBS custom die, maybe ?

A bump die might be better than a body die (Redding) after all - I don't know. What say you ?

TIA
 
Since we are on the topic of .303 reloading. Going to get into reloading very soon and I slugged my No4 MK1* bore the other day and it is .313. Tried looking online and no one seems to make bullets this size (unless they totally slipped by me). I don't want to have to begin casting bullets as I lack proper equipment and space to do so. Where do I go from here?
 
PantherD1943 said:
Since we are on the topic of .303 reloading. Going to get into reloading very soon and I slugged my No4 MK1* bore the other day and it is .313. Tried looking online and no one seems to make bullets this size (unless they totally slipped by me). I don't want to have to begin casting bullets as I lack proper equipment and space to do so. Where do I go from here?
Click to expand...

No worries with a .313 bore. Try any .311 or .312 jacketed flat base bullet and you should get good results.

I have barrels that range from .311"-.316" and they all fire .312" bullets with very good accuracy.
 
Snowy Owl said:
Ed,

May I ask you what is the make of your .303 British case forming die that you use as shoulder bump die ? It looks like as if it could be a Redding die (custom die of course) but I would not bet the farm on it.

Forster makes bump dies but not in .303 British, as you already well know. RCBS custom die, maybe ?

A bump die might be better than a body die (Redding) after all - I don't know. What say you ?

TIA
Click to expand...

Redding, Mfr Part: 83154, Form & Trim - Series B 303 British

It is a standard die and not custom, at the time I ordered it no one made a shoulder bump die for the .303 British and I think no one does today. It is the only die and way to bump the shoulder and not touch the body and neck of the case. But it is a case forming die so it is it is closer fitting than just a shoulder bump die.
 
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