.308 grain variation uses?

If a 120 grain bullet from a 6mm will kill a deer dead, it will out of a .308 too.

That's a very simplistic answer not taking into account the extreme difference in sectional density, which (bullet construction being equal) is an excellent predictor of overall penetration.
 
That's a very simplistic answer not taking into account the extreme difference in sectional density, which (bullet construction being equal) is an excellent predictor of overall penetration.

Sectional density would not matter much if the bullet is exploding (which most likely will be the case with a 120 gr varmint 308 bullet).
 
That's a very simplistic answer not taking into account the extreme difference in sectional density, which (bullet construction being equal) is an excellent predictor of overall penetration.

Have not found any deer with calculators, micrometers, or internet access.

Been watching out for it too! :) Supposedly the deer that know these things cannot be killed without a plasma rifle in the 40 watt range, or some such. The rest of them don't know any better and die when smacked in the boiler room.

Yeah, of course it's a simplification. So is claiming that one weight will magically make the problems go away, while another will cause you to have more of them. Guys, esp, newbs, tend to spend far too much time trying to calculate out all the "best", while what they should be doing is shooting at the range or out in the back forty.

My experience has been that I shot deer with 50 grain bullets out of a .223, and ate pretty well. I shot deer with 110 gr out of a .308 Win, and ate well, I shot deer with 125 Grain .308, and ate well, 150 gr, ditto, 180 gr too. That's as heavy a bullet as I have used. None did more or less damage because of their weight. Spine shooting a deer, though, I can relate that it makes a mess, but tracking isn't an issue...and that a gut shot deer that does a runner can pretty much ruin a hunting trip. These are some of the things that tend to influence my choice of taken shot, far more than the actual weight of the bullet.

None of the deer shot with the .223 suffered the supposed result of having a shallow flesh wound on the near side, nor did the deer shot with the 110 grain bullets.

It's about the Indian, not the arrow, eh.

Cheers
Trev
 
Sectional density would not matter much if the bullet is exploding (which most likely will be the case with a 120 gr varmint 308 bullet).

Or maybe that bullet is not driven at gopher bullet velocities, and it works just fine.

On that same line, a buddy of mine made a right mess out of a doe with a .300 Win Mag by shoulder smacking her at 25 yards with his very hot loads. By the time the trimming was done, he was down nearly a quarter of the carcass.

Again, it comes down more to the shooter than the bullet.

Cheers
Trev
 
Sectional density would not matter much if the bullet is exploding (which most likely will be the case with a 120 gr varmint 308 bullet).

It does if it expands violently and fails to penetrate adequately to ensure lethality. You need penetration more than you need expansion.
 
Trev, I will concede that it doesn't take much to kill a deer most of the time. The job can often be done with varmint bullets. I suspect you have little experience with bigger critters. The original poster asked what the various weights are for. They each do have an ideal purpose. I have seen light bullets fail to penetrate adequately on bigger stuff like elk quite a few times. On three different elk and one moose I have witnessed a hit to the point of the oncoming shoulder with a .308 150 grain standard bullet that was stopped dead by the humerus/scapula socket joint. I have seen a lightly constructed 100 grain .257 bullet fail to break the neck bone of a mule deer. I have seen a 130 grain .270 bullet that did not reach the vitals after penetrating the shoulder muscles and breaking the humerus of a moose. Heavier bullets in each of those cases would have resulted in cleaner more humane kills, less worry and less meat damage.
If you plan to shoot varmints in farming country with a .308 you would not choose a 180 grain bullet that is likely, even after a good hit, to go bouncing over the horizon. You would be better advised to use a 110 grain bullet that breaks up and doesn't ricochet. Horses for courses.
 
Op if you want a do it all for your 308 load up some 130 grain ttsx. Load them as hot as you can while staying safe and still obtaining good accuracy.

Then go kill deer, moose, black bear or elk.

A 130 grain TTSX at 3200 fps will do it all within reasonable ranges.
 
It seems in these modern days we can't discuss bullet weights without discussing bullet construction. More choices have made it more complicated.

Very true, but you also have to take into consideration the velocity that you wish to drive them as well, the range you are likely to shoot at, and the game you are hunting, among other things.

The simple answer is that there are no simple answers. In effect, one must take a good long look at all the variables, and make a decision based on as many checks inna box being filled in as one can arrange for, as you are never going to get ALL the criteria met.

Each bullet you choose, is, by default, a compromise, and each is effective in it's own way. Cup and core bullets can come completely apart when driven too fast, solid copper bullets like the TSX, have been known, on occasion to pass through without expanding at all. Choose yer poison.

If you cannot find them to buy and use, then they are not going to do you any good, and if they don't shoot reasonable well, same.

Which loops back to my earlier recommendation, to see what is available, and shoots reasonable well. Then work out the details from there.

Cheers
Trev
 
Long studies of the ballistics tables, and a bunch of experimenting led me to the conclusion that the 165grain bullet was the ideal choice for the 308Win. Best compromise between energy and velocity, with good trajectory. I use it for moose, deer, and black bear.
Never lets me down.

Came to same 165 gr conclusion for .308 win.
 
Bullet weights make huge differences. See previous discussion.

Bullet construction make big differences. See previous discussion.

Confidence in YOUR gun and bullet is the final answer.

Other than that it's all a lot of theory. What works best for me might not be acceptable in any form for you (I shoot lead 'cuz I can, but I also don't own a .308)
 
Bullet weights make huge differences. See previous discussion.

Bullet construction make big differences. See previous discussion.

Confidence in YOUR gun and bullet is the final answer.

Other than that it's all a lot of theory. What works best for me might not be acceptable in any form for you (I shoot lead 'cuz I can, but I also don't own a .308)

Good advice.... except EVERYONE should own a .308 win. :p :rockOn:
 
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