.357 mag and .38

[Somerset Bar]

Okay I've been googling this a bit and keep getting different answers.

So I have maybe 500 federal .357 mag factory rounds, and 500 .38 special "wolf" rounds. Maybe 300 rounds fired and brass de-primed and cleaned. So as for reloading I think I'll be getting 158 grain berry jacketed bullets. I have a dillon .357 reloading die set waiting to be picked up, and I have here 2000 small pistol primers. So I figure I'll also need a .38 special set of dies.

So here are my questions as I want to do LOTS of research before I try reloading any of this stuff:


1) best reloading reference for the .357? I have the lyman booklets for the .45acp and the .223 I plan to reload.
2) I have small pistol primers for the blazer .45 brass I have. Can I use them on the .38 AND the .357 or do I need magnum primers?
3) can I load the .357 cases with .38 special loads or will that create an unsafe scenario?
4) will powder be the same for both calibers, or is that definitely a different powder?
5) is there a benefit to doing HBWC bullets?

Sorry for questions, the reloading for say the .45 is pretty clear, I just got the powder listed in the booklet and the small primers for the brass that had small primers and the large primers for the brass that had large. Doing 2 different rounds in the same handgun is a bit more tricky so I thought I would ask straight out, there's bound to be guys here that do it. I was shoting fantastic groupings with the .38 but I LOVE the big boom of the .357 so I really want to reload both.

 

[Trinimon]

1: get a copy of the Hornady reloading manual 9th Ed.
2: No need for Magnum primers in 357Mag. SPP is perfect.
3: You can use the low end of a 38SP+P loads in 357Mag which is what I do on occasion. This keeps my revolver's cylinder from getting carbon build up if I want to go back to shooting 357Mag after shooting a bunch of 38SP+P rounds. I don't even bother buying 38SP brass. Makes life easier.
4: Most instances same powder for both, just different weight. I've used Unique (a bit dirty), Bullseye and now mostly Titegroup. If I want 357Mag loads, I used H110.
5: Can't help you with that one. I just shoot Hornady 158gr XTP or cast RNFP.

 

[Somerset Bar]

Okay that's an interesting point. I am shooting through a SS S&W 686, and the carbon buildup was heavy duty on the cylinder. Would this be because of the .38 rounds more-so than the .357? I would like to keep the mess down as much as possible as it is a pain cleaning it off (I had to use the buffing wheel on some of it!).

So the hornady manual over say the big lyman one? Wifey is looking for xmas gifts for me, so I'll add that to the list. Thanks for the info, I'm now off to research "+P"

 

[handofzeus]

Shoot a revolver......it gets dirty. Try the Hodgdon site for any load info you need.

 

[Spawn-Inc]

1. I use hodgdons website for load data mostly as those are the powders I use.

2.yes you can use any small pistol primer for both 38 and 357, I do it all the time. I also use magnum primers when I use ball powders like h110/w296.

3. Yes you can safely use 38spl loads in a 357 mag case.

4. You can use the same powder, but for the big bang you want from the 357 it will be a different powder then the 38 spl loads.
It's not complicated to use multiple powders just be clear which one your using. I have 12 different powders or more, I just keep the bottle I'm using on the table. (not an attack on you, just commenting)

5. I like them because they cut perfect holes and shoot great, but I also use Berry's plated (not jacketed like you mention), jacketed, and my own cast bullets from 125gr up to 158gr.

And you can use 357 dies for the 38, but with the low cost of Lee dies I have 2 sets.

 

[Somerset Bar]

Shoot a revolver......it gets dirty. Try the Hodgdon site for any load info you need.

Never thought of that, and I guess if I clean it it gets clean.

 

[Somerset Bar]

1. I use hodgdons website for load data mostly as those are the powders I use.

2.yes you can use any small pistol primer for both 38 and 357, I do it all the time. I also use magnum primers when I use ball powders like h110/w296.

3. Yes you can safely use 38spl loads in a 357 mag case.

4. You can use the same powder, but for the big bang you want from the 357 it will be a different powder then the 38 spl loads.
It's not complicated to use multiple powders just be clear which one your using. I have 12 different powders or more, I just keep the bottle I'm using on the table. (not an attack on you, just commenting)

5. I like them because they cut perfect holes and shoot great, but I also use Berry's plated (not jacketed like you mention), jacketed, and my own cast bullets from 125gr up to 158gr.

And you can use 357 dies for the 38, but with the low cost of Lee dies I have 2 sets.

I took a look at the hodgon site and it's good, except I think I have alliant powders at home for the .45, so it would be good to have a reference that covers all the powders. Although who knows, I'm only getting 1lb bottles until I find loads I like, so I may end up going hodgon.

So basically it's a good idea to just use .357 brass, and load it to .38 sp if I want a lighter load. Good to know. Does the shorter .38 brass work in a .357 reloading die? Just a different setting for seating the bullet?

Thanks for the info, I hate asking questions on here, it seems to offend some people lol.

 

[sunray]

"...hate asking questions on here..." Don't even think that.
"...need magnum primers?..." No. Magnum primers have nothing whatever to do with the name of a cartridge. They burn a bit hotter for a bit longer and are made to ignite hard to light powders and for cold weather shooting. If your manual doesn't say to use 'em you don't need 'em.
"...you can safely use 38spl loads in a 357 mag case..." Absolutely. Doing so also makes the need to clean the cylinders of a .357 after shooting .38's before shooting .357's too.
"....38 brass work in a .357 reloading die..." Yep, but you need a spacer ring. It comes with .38/.357 die sets, but it's just a 1/10" washer with a hole big enough for the die to go through.
"...benefit to doing HBWC bullets..." Those are usually cast or swaged match bullets. Shot with light target loads(2.5 to 2.7 grains of Bullseye with a 148 grain cast bullet has been the standard .38 Special target load for eons) and make nice round clear holes that are easy to see if the ring line was touched. Touch the line and you get the higher ring value for score.
"...the big boom of the .357..." Different thing. Not for target shooting. Just for fun. And shooting is fun.

 

[handofzeus]

Never thought of that, and I guess if I clean it it gets clean.

Not overly trying to be a wiseass...(just a bit!) but revolvers can get extremely dirty due to amount of blow-past through the gap, autos not so much. You will find yourself cleaning a revolver is much more time consuming to do properly. If you get into BP revolvers expect to get filthy and greasy and to completely disassemble down to the internal springs each time!

 

[Ganderite]

You can use both 38 and 357 brass. BUT, it would be better (safer) to use only 357 brass. If you use 38 brass, you might decide to use it for some "hot" loads that would work just fine in your 357, but would destroy a 38 if any of them ever found their way into one.

The dies for both calibers are the same, but if you use just 357 brass, the setting will not change. You can use the 38 SPL data to make mild loads, using the 357 brass.

A good powder for making medium power ammo is Clays Universal. If you use a lot of this powder, you can get up to about 90% of full power, good enough for your ####z and giggles. 6.0 gr Universal with 158 gr bullet, about 1300 fps.

A real good all purpose bullet is the lead 148 double ended full wad cutter. This is a cheap cast bullet and because it goes so far into the case, it uses up all that empty space. This helps accuracy. 3.5 gr Universal about 900 fps.

 

[Spawn-Inc]

I took a look at the hodgon site and it's good, except I think I have alliant powders at home for the .45, so it would be good to have a reference that covers all the powders. Although who knows, I'm only getting 1lb bottles until I find loads I like, so I may end up going hodgon.

So basically it's a good idea to just use .357 brass, and load it to .38 sp if I want a lighter load. Good to know. Does the shorter .38 brass work in a .357 reloading die? Just a different setting for seating the bullet?

Thanks for the info, I hate asking questions on here, it seems to offend some people lol.

i stick with hodgdon because it's what i can easily get and i hate alliant's website for load data, very lacking to say the least.

with regards to using the same dies for both calibre's it's just a matter of adjusting depth of the expander and bullet seat/crimp dies. The resizing/decapping die can stay the same as it's going to the base for 38 and 357.

better to ask and be yelled at then to blow up your guns/hands.


for big boom's and alot of attention i use 22gr(starting load on hodgdon's site) of h110 under a 110 gr bullet. it's not really good for your gun which is why i'm looking for a ruger GP100 for all the super hot loads, i only have a smith 586 6". most people think i'm shooting a 44 mag when i shoot those suckers off. Once they go back to their bays then i bring out the 500mag

 

[Somerset Bar]

Thanks guys (even the smartasses ), this is good info. I only ask about the .38 because I seem to be paying $30 a box for 357 magnum, and $16 a box for .38 special, so it's tempting to grab the cheaper ammo. I'm going to look around for better pricing on the .357

Kind of excited to play around a bit with this. I only have a single stage press, so I plan to be extremely careful (and watch my powders!), it's rather nerve-wracking to think I'm making little explosive devices so it will likely have 100% of my attention.

 

[fdc]

Thanks guys (even the smartasses ), this is good info. I only ask about the .38 because I seem to be paying $30 a box for 357 magnum, and $16 a box for .38 special, so it's tempting to grab the cheaper ammo. I'm going to look around for better pricing on the .357

Kind of excited to play around a bit with this. I only have a single stage press, so I plan to be extremely careful (and watch my powders!), it's rather nerve-wracking to think I'm making little explosive devices so it will likely have 100% of my attention.

I'm new to the reloading game and it really just comes down to being thorough. I like reloading 38 SP +P loads with cast lead. Fun to shoot and cheap(er).

 

[handofzeus]

All you need is a single stage press. I started with a Lee Classic Loader. Great little gizmo if you're in a bind for quick reloads in the bush but after setting off a few primers one night ( scared the b'Jebus outta me!) I opted for a press. .357/.38 is my favourite round to reload too. The straight-walled cases are sooo nice to work with. No worrying about bumping shoulders back or anything. I recommend a cheap Lee hand primer to make short work of priming too.

 

[Somerset Bar]

All you need is a single stage press. I started with a Lee Classic Loader. Great little gizmo if you're in a bind for quick reloads in the bush but after setting off a few primers one night ( scared the b'Jebus outta me!) I opted for a press. .357/.38 is my favourite round to reload too. The straight-walled cases are sooo nice to work with. No worrying about bumping shoulders back or anything. I recommend a cheap Lee hand primer to make short work of priming too.

I have a lee press too: http://youtu.be/52ztM_5fGJU

I grabbed the lee auto prime, but it seems to drop as many primers on the floor as it puts into the priming cup lol.

 

[nevanevan]

Not to go against the grain of things, but numerous posts have been saying that you do not need a magnum primer for H110. If you want to burn all the powder and eliminate poor ignition you really should use a magnum primer with h110 or Win 296. If you want to use your regular small pistol primers, maybe acquire some alliant 2400 (awesome fireball powder) The great thing about reloading is you can do what you want, that being said there is a right way of doing something, and the "i'm to cheap to go get the right components way". Since you seem to be a new reloader, just go to the store and buy the right parts, you will DEFINATLY use them all up probably in the first 6months of reloading as it is an addicting hobby.

 

[handofzeus]

I have a lee press too: http://youtu.be/52ztM_5fGJU

I grabbed the lee auto prime, but it seems to drop as many primers on the floor as it puts into the priming cup lol.

Yeah, I've considered getting a progressive press with an autoprimer feed but I can't justify the cash outlay. Sometimes with just 20-30 rifle rounds I'll use the on board primer attatchment (RCBS and LYMAN) but it seems to take really long to set those little buggers in place without a feeder! If I was shooting alot of 9mm or another small cased round then maybe but the .357 is big enough to be easy to handle and I only ever do 150 reloads at a time (or it starts to feel like work) and I get those all done in 2 hours, give or take.

 

[turbo_bird]

For reloading the Berrys plated bullets, they recomend using data for cast bullets. The Lyman reloading manual has lots of cast bullet info, as well as for generic jacketed bullets. I like unique or for light loads in .38 or .357, and 2400 for some more kick in the .357. I haven't been able to get 2400 this summer, so I bought a few pounds of H110 to try, some books say magnum primers, some don't. I usually use .357 brass for all my loads, but I do have a few hundred .38 brass as well. I like semi wadcutter bullets because my guns shoot them decent loaded hot or light, they are easier to load when using speedloaders, and they still make a very nice, round hole in the paper.
Kristian

 

[Spawn-Inc]

Not to go against the grain of things, but numerous posts have been saying that you do not need a magnum primer for H110. If you want to burn all the powder and eliminate poor ignition you really should use a magnum primer with h110 or Win 296. If you want to use your regular small pistol primers, maybe acquire some alliant 2400 (awesome fireball powder) The great thing about reloading is you can do what you want, that being said there is a right way of doing something, and the "i'm to cheap to go get the right components way". Since you seem to be a new reloader, just go to the store and buy the right parts, you will DEFINATLY use them all up probably in the first 6months of reloading as it is an addicting hobby.

what size barrel are you shooting the fireball's of 2400 from? i've got a pound of it and i can't remember if i tried it in my 357mag yet. alliants website suggests 13.3 gr starting load for a 158gr bullet.


with regards to magnum primers vs standard, the way i see it is you can always use them in place of standard primers in a pinch.

 

[Somerset Bar]

Right now I have alliant unique because I can get 8lb bottles fairly easily so I grabbed a 1lb bottle to do up some 45acp. If it works on the 357/38 I might stick with it, well until it's hard to find. It would definitely be good to have several good recipes if/when a certain powder is hard to find.

Like I said guys, all appreciated. I really really enjoy shooting the 357 so would love to have a huge bucket of rounds on hand that don't cost me a fortune.