#4 sniper clone..sorta

Beater

Beater

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finally got this lil project finished. started and a stripped reciver, 42 savage.has a RKS (Ron Smith) 7.62 match bbl on it. canadian wood,and parts picked up hear and there. had to do some repairs on the wood in a few spots. aftermarket sniper mount, and an original set of pads. they fit together pritty good, had to do a bit of shimming, but not bad. used a modified ishapore 2A mag, and modified extractor.finish turned out very well, looks great,semigloss japan enamal.going to the range tomorow.
next on the list is to find a scope that looks a bit more correct.

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That's some pretty nice work partner... (big salute) ... :)

I often wish I had that kind of skill ...

~Angel~ has a few of the Sarco repro mounts on her No.4(T)'s that were missing scopes, or just when she wants to try something other than the regular No.3 MK1,2,3 period scopes.

The Weaver scopes give a somewhat period look, so you may want to see if anyone is selling any in the EE. They install easily and work well, plus zeroed without any problems at all. She shot as accurately with the Weaver 4x, as she does with any of the actual period No.32 Mk1 or Mk3 scopes.

Reproduction Scope Mount (Sarco Brand) for Enfield No.4(T) Sniper Rifle with Weaver 4x

(Click PIC to Enlarge)


Enfield No.4(T) Repro Scope Mount (lots more detailed pics ... click here)http://imageevent.com/badgerdog/generalmilitaria/sarcono4tscopemount

Regards,
Badger

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No4 Mk1 (T) Clone

Nice job Beater.
Do you have any problems with 7.62 fired casings ejecting after being fired?
I have a number of mags and I couldn't get the Enfield Mags to work properly after being fired. The fired casings wouldn't eject. Has that more to do with the extractor or the screw on the side?

Albayo
 
albayo said:
Nice job Beater.
Do you have any problems with 7.62 fired casings ejecting after being fired?
I have a number of mags and I couldn't get the Enfield Mags to work properly after being fired. The fired casings wouldn't eject. Has that more to do with the extractor or the screw on the side?

Albayo
Click to expand...

It's a combo of both. We put a longer ejector screw in mine, you make it just long enough that it doesn't foul the bolt(as long as possible). There is a stock thread size that crosses over for that screw too, I forget the thread.

You need a real 7.62 extractor and a new, very strong extractor spring with lots of tension, so much that it's very hard to install.
It still isn't perfect, but it's functional.

For perfect ejection, try functioning an AIA M10- the shells just fly out of there...:) The bolt heads fit right into a No 4 bolt and rifle too...if there was a way for some smart gunsmith to adjust the headspace...

http://www.marstar.ca/gf-AIA/M10-B-parts.shtm


BTW, nice looking rifle Beater!
 
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I have a recently acquired Brit No 4 Mk I T rifle that I bought without a scope and mount as well. I have a Sarco mount with a Bushnell scope, which at least fit into my budget. Now, on Jouster a month or two ago, someone mentioned some brand of scope that looks fairly close to the No 32 scope...I wish I could remember what it was, I've never heard of it before.


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BadgerDog said:
That's some pretty nice work partner... (big salute) ... :)

I often wish I had that kind of skill ...

~Angel~ has a few of the Sarco repro mounts on her No.4(T)'s that were missing scopes, or just when she wants to try something other than the regular No.3 MK1,2,3 period scopes.

The Weaver scopes give a somewhat period look, so you may want to see if anyone is selling any in the EE. They install easily and work well, plus zeroed without any problems at all. She shot as accurately with the Weaver 4x, as she does with any of the actual period No.32 Mk1 or Mk3 scopes.

Reproduction Scope Mount (Sarco Brand) for Enfield No.4(T) Sniper Rifle with Weaver 4x

(Click PIC to Enlarge)


Enfield No.4(T) Repro Scope Mount (lots more detailed pics ... click here)http://imageevent.com/badgerdog/generalmilitaria/sarcono4tscopemount

Regards,
Badger

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Click to expand...
 
yes, i have a sterling 7.62 mag, but i dont like em. thats why i went with the 2A mag.
and as for the extractor, i dont use the 7.62 one, i modify the original 303 to make it work better. its taken me a bit to get it right, but it works reliably now. if i was going to build another, i would get a AIA bolthead if i could.thats the ticket.
i have one more set of original pads, and have been watching for another scope bracket, but no joy yet.
i have a couple weavers, but i think im going to buy a compact leupold, without the front bell. so far i think thats the clossest for the look, plus with it, i can get a post. im off to the range today with it,to see what it will do
 
Beater said:
yes, i have a sterling 7.62 mag, but i dont like em. thats why i went with the 2A mag.
and as for the extractor, i dont use the 7.62 one, i modify the original 303 to make it work better. its taken me a bit to get it right, but it works reliably now. if i was going to build another, i would get a AIA bolthead if i could.thats the ticket.
i have one more set of original pads, and have been watching for another scope bracket, but no joy yet.
i have a couple weavers, but i think im going to buy a compact leupold, without the front bell. so far i think thats the clossest for the look, plus with it, i can get a post. im off to the range today with it,to see what it will do
Click to expand...

You mentioned shims...do you mean between the mount and the pad to align the bore with the scope mount? Mine is a bit off to the left and I understand the front hole on the mount needs a wee bit of milling.
 
yes, i would have had to mill the front mount. the set of pads i have have been matched to a diffrent rifle. i would have had to mill some off the front mount. however, i decided to go a diffrent route, and added a shim to the rear mount. i silver soldered a peice of steel to the inside of the original rear pad, and then milled it, untill it was correct. i feel this was better than milling the front myself.
 
CantomL

There are a couple of scopes to consider. There is a straight objective lens scope made by kalinkaoptics.com/clamp.aspx. The other more affordable and available choices would be an old Weaver K3 or Lyman Alaskan. Good glass and classic lines. You will even get a nod from the 'Far be it from me' crowd for using a vintage model.

If you are in Ottawa ... there is a gun show in Perth end of Apr. Always good snooping wherever there are lots of hunters.
 
well, we had a small setback today, gun functions fine, doin good, and shooting extremly good,however.....
about around 20-30 shots, things went to hell. started haveing a wandering zero. started to check things over, and found that the threads had pulled out of the rear mount. not good, not good at all. its got me baffled as to why.
only thing to do is repair it i guess, and try again......
 
Beater:

Are the threads for the thumb knob stripped, or the pad to the rifle?

In automotive repairs, there are fine wire coils that the mechanic winds into stripped spark plug holes. They look like springs. I have not idea how well they work, but it is worth a try. But, if the threads stripped after a few shots, that sounds like there are extra stresses on that screw. Are the pads and mount perfectly "coincident"?

Second question - tell us more about Ron Smith's 7.62 barrel. There are lots of shooters looking for conversion barrels, and this sounds promising, and especially from a Canadian maker.
 
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thumb screw threads on the rear mount pulled. only way to fix it will be to weld it up, and redo it
RKS makes bbls for anything. this is the first #4 he did, and he didnt quiet get the taper correct on the front of the bbl, and i had to remove a small bit of wood out to make it fit. noting terrible. i know it shoots, as it did great with the peep, before i got the mount. think the bbl cost me around 250.
i dont know why the threads pulled, as the front mount holds the front rear stresses, the rear doesnt. the rear holds the V for up and down. something isnt right, however.
 
maple_leaf_eh said:
Second question - tell us more about Ron Smith's 7.62 barrel. There are lots of shooters looking for conversion barrels, and this sounds promising, and especially from a Canadian maker.
Click to expand...

As a follow-up....

For anyone who embarks on re-barreling their No.4 for 7.62mm, here's a companion article that they might find very useful, located in our Technical Articles for Milsurp Collectors and Re-loaders (click here)http://www.milsurps.com/forumdisplay.php?f=25

The Canadian Marksman (Bedding the 7.62mm No.4 Rifle) - 1965 (click here)http://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=867

Regards,
Badger

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maple_leaf_eh said:
Beater:

Are the threads for the thumb knob stripped, or the pad to the rifle?

In automotive repairs, there are fine wire coils that the mechanic winds into stripped spark plug holes. They look like springs. I have not idea how well they work, but it is worth a try. But, if the threads stripped after a few shots, that sounds like there are extra stresses on that screw. Are the pads and mount perfectly "coincident"?

Second question - tell us more about Ron Smith's 7.62 barrel. There are lots of shooters looking for conversion barrels, and this sounds promising, and especially from a Canadian maker.
Click to expand...


They're called heli-coils and when installed properly, they're stronger than the original threads. I've heard that a lot of motorcycle race engines have the threaded holes all bored out and heli-coils installed because they are so much stronger. I'm not sure if they make them for such small screwholes though.

emhart.com/products/helicoil.asp
 
TheIndifferent1 said:
They're called heli-coils and when installed properly, they're stronger than the original threads. I've heard that a lot of motorcycle race engines have the threaded holes all bored out and heli-coils installed because they are so much stronger. I'm not sure if they make them for such small screwholes though.

emhart.com/products/helicoil.asp
Click to expand...

When I was big into paintball we used them on stripped holes in aluminum all the time. They work awesome.
 
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