#4 sniper clone..sorta

TheIndifferent1 said:
They're called heli-coils and when installed properly, they're stronger than the original threads. I've heard that a lot of motorcycle race engines have the threaded holes all bored out and heli-coils installed because they are so much stronger. I'm not sure if they make them for such small screwholes though.

emhart.com/products/helicoil.asp
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I've seen way too many helicoils fail...not fond of them. Every time he screws the mount on and off, after a few times the spring will come out with the screw...I've heard Timeserts are better, they're like a solid insert vs that spring dooey. It's true they may not come in the English thread...
Very weird that that big thread right through the receiver wall would strip out...I wonder if the hole was tapped a bit loose and the threads were a bit of a loose fit in the hole?
As for welding the hole up...wouldn't that be a bad spot to be welding, heat treatment and such and near the location of the rear locking lugs?
Since Beater is something of a machinist...how about machining a new oversize screw from scratch, thus going oversize with a new strong thread? Maybe could just machine the screw part and weld it to the visible head?
Not sure what size the stock hole is?
http://www.nodakspud.com/newstuff.htm
 
maple_leaf_eh said:
CantomL

There are a couple of scopes to consider. There is a straight objective lens scope made by kalinkaoptics.com/clamp.aspx. The other more affordable and available choices would be an old Weaver K3 or Lyman Alaskan. Good glass and classic lines. You will even get a nod from the 'Far be it from me' crowd for using a vintage model.

If you are in Ottawa ... there is a gun show in Perth end of Apr. Always good snooping wherever there are lots of hunters.
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I was looking at a nice blued Weaver K3 today at the gun show...wasn't really that much different than the 2 Bushnells I have now...certainly not more authentic looking anyway. There was a real Brit sniper rifle at the show and I had a look at the scope on it...very different than any other scope I've seen unfortunately.

Thanks for the info though...

Wow, I just had a look for the Lyman Alaskan scopes on ebay...they are pricey as can be plus which 7/8" tube...
 
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Lyman Alaskans were used on some LB 4Ts, 74L serial prefix - scope was called 32TP. The mount was usually a Griffin & Howe style. There is a photo of a Lyman mounted on a LB using standard 32 mounts with bushings in Law's book. Another scope that was installed on a few LBs was the Weaver 330. The standard mount set for the 32 scope was used with bushings to adapt the rings to the 3/4" scope tube. A setup with the Sarco rings and a Weaver 330 or Alaskan would be a fairly accurate representation of a very rare Cdn. rifle. Weaver 330s are generally less expensive than an Alaskan (although the Lyman is a more sophisticated scope). The Lyman and Weaver were standard on some US sniper rifles.
As far as using a Weaver K3 vs a straight tube Bushnell goes, the Weaver is blued steel, which could be a better finish than anodized aluminum. Shiney black anodizing stands out.
 
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Loose mount!

I'm sorry Beater had a problem with his stripped thread. However, as a result I carefully inspected my mounts and thread to mount fit on my British T rifle. I found that the front mount was loose! The three screws have stake marks but the screws had backed off just slightly so there was no torque on the screws and the mount could wiggle. It sure wouldn't have shot very well...if this issue hadn't come up I doubt I would have spotted this issue.
Now, isn't the pad supposed to be soldered to the receiver? How does one do that? Is that the remains of the solder visible in the pics?

Tmount002.jpg

Tmount003.jpg

Tmount001.jpg

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Beater said:
well, we had a small setback today, gun functions fine, doin good, and shooting extremly good,however.....
about around 20-30 shots, things went to hell. started haveing a wandering zero. started to check things over, and found that the threads had pulled out of the rear mount. not good, not good at all. its got me baffled as to why.
only thing to do is repair it i guess, and try again......
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yes, the pads are suposed to be solderd to the rifle. your lucky to find that, and you can repair it. lucky it didnt sheer the screws. this is a week point, from what i know about the 4Ts .
id use silver solder these days, a low temp one. and id do it, very carefully
 
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The pads should have been soldered. As far as the mechanical necessity of doing so goes, it is never done when mounting scopes these days. Just isn't necessary. If you are concerned about strength, a modern bonding agent could be used, like a Loctite product. Low temperature silver bearing solders are nicer to work with that traditional lead/tin solders. I am sure that the temperature of any soldering would affect the Suncorite finish, and this would create another problem.
 
tiriaq said:
The pads should have been soldered. As far as the mechanical necessity of doing so goes, it is never done when mounting scopes these days. Just isn't necessary. If you are concerned about strength, a modern bonding agent could be used, like a Loctite product. Low temperature silver bearing solders are nicer to work with that traditional lead/tin solders. I am sure that the temperature of any soldering would affect the Suncorite finish, and this would create another problem.
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For the amount I'm going to shoot it...they were built for wartime conditions after all...
What do you think about JB Weld? Put a thin film of that on and then screw it down? Or what type of Loctite? Should I wire wheel the inside of the mount to get a clean surface?(being careful not to nick the Suncorite)

Beater, I had a look at where that threaded hole is vs the locking lug recess- not good, it's right above it. I wouldn't be welding there.
 
JB should be fine. Would hold best if the steel is cleaned, particularly degreased. Just be careful not to mark up the exposed finish. Loctite markets a wide variety of sealers, lockers and adhesives, but if you have JB on hand, why not use it?
 
yes, i know, the locking lug goes right there. im not sure what im going to do.
as for your prob, i think maybe id just degrease it, and JB it.
 
Beater said:
yes, i know, the locking lug goes right there. im not sure what im going to do.
as for your prob, i think maybe id just degrease it, and JB it.
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I'll be looking for a hand steamer, tote box(for cosmo removal) and a tube of JB Weld today.

I'd be thinking about going oversize with the threads and making a new shaft in the same thread for the nut. Or, try to find a Timesert in the same thread.
 
One solution for a stripped out female thread is to drill the hole out oversized, thread it, install a bushing with a thread locker, then drill and tap for the correct thread. Just a variation on the Helicoil/Timesert method. Installed a bush like this in the mounting hole on a Bushnell Spacemaster spotting scope last week. Threaded to 3/8x24, installed a bushing internally threaded for 1/4x20, using JB Weld. You really have to look to see what has been done, and the scope mounts on its tripod just fine.
 
well, feelin a lil better about things today. after i disasembled things, its not the rifle that the threads pulled on, its the cheep aftermarket thumbscrews on the mount.
ill be able to fix this much easyer
 
Beater said:
well, feelin a lil better about things today. after i disasembled things, its not the rifle that the threads pulled on, its the cheep aftermarket thumbscrews on the mount.
ill be able to fix this much easyer
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Good news. :dancingbanana: :dancingbanana:
See this page for some new screws. Not cheap but seem to be original.
So the Sarco screws strip off? Oh joy...

http://www.helstongunsmiths.com/shop/sights.html
 
I reinstalled the front mount on my T rifle today. My wife did the JB weld mix and spread thing while I cleaned everything with alcohol and assembled it and torqued the screws. I blue loctited the screws. I'm not really planning on re-staking the screws...

Pad.jpg
 
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