400 Yard Elk cartridge . what's your Pick

I’ve seen it as well. A high mounted scope on a Lee enfield with the target down in a draw. Dude put 2 thru his fender.
Modern equivalent is blasting paint with a brake.
 
starvin said:
I’ve seen it as well. A high mounted scope on a Lee enfield with the target down in a draw. Dude put 2 thru his fender.
Modern equivalent is blasting paint with a brake.
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Sounds like that cops story poaching caribou, except he was using a prohib AR....
 
It happens. Knew a guy who put a round through his early 80's square body hood ridge. Knew another guy who got moose excited getting out of his F350, jacking a shell in. Put a 300 Win Mag bullet through the floor and his torque converter. Later his brother got the torque converter chrome plated and mounted on a plaque for him. - dan
 
dan belisle said:
It happens. Knew a guy who put a round through his early 80's square body hood ridge. Knew another guy who got moose excited getting out of his F350, jacking a shell in. Put a 300 Win Mag bullet through the floor and his torque converter. Later his brother got the torque converter chrome plated and mounted on a plaque for him. - dan
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OUCH!

The one I know of (and no, not me! Yet...) was a fella who used one side of the top of a truck bed to aim at something across the other side. Just because your scope clears the top of something doesn't mean your bore does lol.

This was also a 300 magnum of some sort but forgot the details.
 
Joel said:
OUCH!

The one I know of (and no, not me! Yet...) was a fella who used one side of the top of a truck bed to aim at something across the other side. Just because your scope clears the top of something doesn't mean your bore does lol.

This was also a 300 magnum of some sort but forgot the details.
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True story of a good fried and his BIL about 20 years ago.
getting into his truck.
Al: Uh, you wanna unload that rifle? ( 358 BLR, hammer cocked)
BIL: it's not loaded!( hammer back)
goes to let the hammer down - BOOM!
result was a hole in the floor boards and a chipped ring gear!
Cat
 
GAH!

No blown eardrums (or any other body parts) too?

I'm sure it was never lived down hahaha
 
todbartell said:
Here is what I usually do-

I stop in at the local hunting store, and buy 2 boxes of ammo. Whatever is the cheapest.

Then I head to the range, and set up a target at 200 yards, because "that's how far away the deer will be when I shoot at it"

I go back to my truck and grab the case of beer out of it. This works well for a rest. I've bought bottles instead of cans, because a bottled beer box is sturdier than just piling 2 six packs on top of each other.

I crack a beer, and lay the rifle over the beer box. Taking careful aim, I take a shot at 200 yards. I notice that it is 4" high, and to the right about 3". I make the appropriate adjustments on the scope, shoot again, and then notice that the bullet is low and to the left. I make more adjustments, and continue shooting and adjusting.

Pretty soon it's time to take a break and let the barrel cool down, since I have fired up the first box of ammo.

I cool the barrel while swilling another beer.

Once I'm finished my beer, I get back at it, shooting and adjusting. When I get half way through my second box, I realize that I need some ammo for hunting, so I proclaim "Well, that's good enough for deer hunting" and "I'm not much of a target shooter, but I am a excellent GAME SHOT!"

Then I pack up and go home. I leave my 30-06 brass on the ground, because some crazy reloader will want it, anyway.

Gatehouse
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Stellar lol so good.
 
It's unlikely I would need to reach out 400 yds for an elk but if I new ahead of time my choices, at hand, would be:

1. 300 H&H - 180 gr
2. 338 WM - 200 gr
3. 300 WM - 180 gr
4: 264 WM - 140 gr
5: 270 Win - 140 gr
6: 30-06 - 180 gr
 
Mr.Rigpig said:
Drop is drop, it doesn't really matter where you zero your rifle, as long as you know where its hitting at a certain distance. Sure you can zero your rifle at 300 and have less "drop" at 400, but you will also be shooting high at 150.
If all you want is "point and shoot at elk" then zero at 300 is fine, but there's more than one way.
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Mr.Rigpig said:
You bet, hence my last sentence.
I doubt many take a scope with a ballistic recticle and sight in that way though, kinda defeats the purpose of the scope. He stated only a moron would zero at 100.
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Mr.Rigpig said:
You will get no argument there.
I don't believe there is a "wrong" way to zero. (Well, maybe if you zero at 25 yards or something, and never check it further. lol)
MPBR is likely the easiest, for a strictly hunting rifle, as long as you know your limits.
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Never came back to this thread after posting... but to follow up... this thread is about shooting elk at 400 yards... which means that there is indeed a wrong way to zero your scope, and zeroing at 100 yards is one of those wrong ways. If you are shooting at 400 or more yards, you would be wise to take advantage of MPBR (with a conservative radius), or utilize a BDC reticle of some sort. Every system requires practice before being put to use in the field. I like Leupold's B&C reticle, and most of my hunting rifles wear VX-3 with B&C, but I DO check the hash marks for accuracy and note the ranges that they dissect for zero. I also use the B&C reticle in a fashion not intended. For example, with my .358 Win loads, if I zero at 2" high 100 yards, the second stadia is 2" low at 200 yards, the.third stadia is dead on at 250 yards and the top of the post is within an inch at 300 yards... which makes the .358 Win a more versatile cartridge than one might expect. The key is "knowing" that before you start shooting at game.
 
hoytcanon said:
Never came back to this thread after posting... but to follow up... this thread is about shooting elk at 400 yards... which means that there is indeed a wrong way to zero your scope, and zeroing at 100 yards is one of those wrong ways. If you are shooting at 400 or more yards, you would be wise to take advantage of MPBR (with a conservative radius), or utilize a BDC reticle of some sort. Every system requires practice before being put to use in the field. I like Leupold's B&C reticle, and most of my hunting rifles wear VX-3 with B&C, but I DO check the hash marks for accuracy and note the ranges that they dissect for zero. I also use the B&C reticle in a fashion not intended. For example, with my .358 Win loads, if I zero at 2" high 100 yards, the second stadia is 2" low at 200 yards, the.third stadia is dead on at 250 yards and the top of the post is within an inch at 300 yards... which makes the .358 Win a more versatile cartridge than one might expect. The key is "knowing" that before you start shooting at game.
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I agree with ya. I also like the B&C reticule.
Now, as to the "shooting elk at 400 yards" part, is that the plan? then just zero at 400.
Or is the plan to be capable of taking a 400 yard shot if need be, but hoping to get a 100 yd shot(or less!).
Regardless, your last sentence summed it up perfectly. The key is knowing before you start shooting.
 
Hunting in a heavily forested cover the most difficult part of making a 400 yard kill is walking that 400 yards to where the elk was standing when you pulled the trigger.
Odds are he’s no longer there and may indeed be 400 or more yards away by now provided you can find where he was when you hit him.
Just some food for thought.
 
DOUGLAS D said:
Hunting in a heavily forested cover the most difficult part of making a 400 yard kill is walking that 400 yards to where the elk was standing when you pulled the trigger.
Odds are he’s no longer there and may indeed be 400 or more yards away by now provided you can find where he was when you hit him.
Just some food for thought.
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Or in some parts of Alberta/sask you can see them , shoot and get in your truck and drive there
all hunting situations are diff
Just food
 
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hoytcanon said:
Never came back to this thread after posting... but to follow up... this thread is about shooting elk at 400 yards... which means that there is indeed a wrong way to zero your scope, and zeroing at 100 yards is one of those wrong ways. If you are shooting at 400 or more yards, you would be wise to take advantage of MPBR (with a conservative radius), or utilize a BDC reticle of some sort. Every system requires practice before being put to use in the field. I like Leupold's B&C reticle, and most of my hunting rifles wear VX-3 with B&C, but I DO check the hash marks for accuracy and note the ranges that they dissect for zero. I also use the B&C reticle in a fashion not intended. For example, with my .358 Win loads, if I zero at 2" high 100 yards, the second stadia is 2" low at 200 yards, the.third stadia is dead on at 250 yards and the top of the post is within an inch at 300 yards... which makes the .358 Win a more versatile cartridge than one might expect. The key is "knowing" that before you start shooting at game.
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Correct. - dan
 
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