600 yard rifle

One really shouldn't assume on others behaviour! to assume make an ... ass ... out of ... u ... and ... me. "ass u me"
 
I don't know what all the complaining is about. Sunray is always helpful...

It doesn't take magic to make a 600yd shot on a game animal, just practice. To paraphrase Aristotle, "you become good at something by practicing it, therefore, perfection is nothing more than habit". Practicing the shot again and again from various positions ensures that the body will take over and instinct will judge the distance and the wind, and put the shot exactly where it is meant to.

My only shot over 400yds was a buck at 550yds. From a K-98 Mauser chambered in .30-06. Weren't allowed on the field, but could shoot from the edges. 165gn Partition at 2900fps. I had a 500yd range to play with. I made the shot, got the buck...despite what Sunray claims.

Back in the day, I had a ranging optimeter, a rangematic 600, you know, double image system... Lost it in a flooded basement. Couold not dry out the paper dials so that they would work again, and then the printing came off... sigh. Could not make it work any more, but it was ACCURATE. 550 yds , raised the POI 18", slammed it through the boiler room. He went nowhere. It helped that the wind was pretty much in my face, though.
 
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No doubt the 375 is capable but man that's a lot of recoil to deal with in a hunting weight rifle. I know how I feel after a dozen rounds off the bench with mine....let alone shooting two or three times that many prone.

i am 26o lbs. yes it takes time to work up a load .. but one thing about it them mooses do not even see it coming i am making up a sled out of a set of mt. bike forks for testing loads
 
Yup, I never shoot paper past 200 yards...it's all gong after that under real field conditions at a variety of distances, wind directions, inclines and shooting positions. I could care less about group size other than the rifle is capable of shooting a sufficiently tight group to be useful at extended ranges. All I care about in long-range hunting practice is hearing the gong ring. What you can do off the bench means next to nothing in the field at long ranges...that's why you rarely see serious long-range hunters at the range.

i save all the cut outs steel 18 inch. circles hang them up down the cut lines just to keep the edge on it is a one shot deal
 
Keep one fact in mind:
A heavier bullet has more velocity retention AND higher BC than a lighter bullet.

Uhm, no.
BC isn't a function of bullet weight. It can correlate in some aspects, but it isn't a direct transfer.

Bullet shape has more influence on BC.

Kind of throws the rest of your theories into question.......
 
Well, you got me there.

What I was trying to say (I dont speak too good and write even worster)
Is that the range is a good place to take out the some of the human factor.
Use a good front and rear rest, let the rifle tell you where that first cold shot
will land with the ammo you are using.
But you're right, at the range I usually fire a few "dirty-up" rounds before getting down and serious.
But, knowing where that first shot hits is important, I dont want to warm up my rifle again every
target change. I can tell my rifle will shoot about 1" +/- left @300 yds if at ambient temperature
(after my dirty-up to get rid of any oil, rags, and tid bits that may be in the barrel)
So I just compensate..a tad on a cold shot, a bit less on second and back to normal after that,
it's not an exact science but it helps my first group.
I can only ASSUME a hunter relies on that first cold shot, so I can also ASSUME it must be important.
After assuming all that, I might as well ASSUME that a long range hunter has "dirtied-up" his
barrel and got rid of anything that may be lurking in there, waiting to mess up that first trajectory.

An assumption based on an assumption, followed by an assumption is called what again?

I always hunt with a fouled barrel and I don't own a rifle that has a noticeable shift in POI from cold to warm.....I do have one that starts to fly after three though. Perhaps I'm just lucky.
 
My Nemesis get a light patch every 200 rounds, never seen a metallic brush in its first 600 rounds and i dont see when it will need it... JP.
 
I always hunt with a fouled barrel and I don't own a rifle that has a noticeable shift in POI from cold to warm.....I do have one that starts to fly after three though. Perhaps I'm just lucky.

My Nemesis get a light patch every 200 rounds, never seen a metallic brush in its first 600 rounds and i dont see when it will need it... JP.
Once I have settled on a round and sighted in, there is no cleaning of the bore until after whatever particular season is over. Then it gets a bore snake once through. The outside gets cleaned and oiled as needed.
 
That what practice and a top rifle will do at 1000 metres, dont you agree that 600 metres is not that far to put a groups inside the 4 inch square, when conditions are there it is doable 10 out of 10 times... JP.



You would not want to shoot at a beast at this distance, you can clearly see by reading the target that those bullets are running out of steam...
You can see many holes ellongated perforation, a sure indication that the bullet at 1000 metres is definitly key holding...
Did not made calculation since i would not shoot at nothing at that distance even if the target are conclusive of top accuracy... I doubt 500 pounds of energy are left on those bullets... JP.
 
Uhm, no.
BC isn't a function of bullet weight. It can correlate in some aspects, but it isn't a direct transfer.

Bullet shape has more influence on BC.

Kind of throws the rest of your theories into question.......

Correct about the bullet shape, but once that is decided it applies,
BTW: it's not my theory, I borrowed it from Brian Litz, he wrote the book I mentioned
and he's a member of this board.
 
It's not fair to compare a 185 grain Boat Tail VLD to a 200 grain soft point flat based hunting bullet. All things being equal though, the heavier bullet will ALWAYS have a higher BC meaning the bullet design is the same except for weight - meaning length of bearing surface.

Uhm, no.
BC isn't a function of bullet weight. It can correlate in some aspects, but it isn't a direct transfer.

Bullet shape has more influence on BC.

Kind of throws the rest of your theories into question.......
 
It's not fair to compare a 185 grain Boat Tail VLD to a 200 grain soft point flat based hunting bullet. All things being equal though, the heavier bullet will ALWAYS have a higher BC meaning the bullet design is the same except for weight - meaning length of bearing surface.

I wasn't the one making a generalized grandiose statement that is incorrect. But if you are absolutely positive you are right, then by all means, hold a sermon and pound the pulpit.



But before you take a sip of water and launch into your diatribe, maybe compare the 155 Scenar to the 167 Scenar....
 
I wasn't the one making a generalized grandiose statement that is incorrect. But if you are absolutely positive you are right, then by all means, hold a sermon and pound the pulpit.



But before you take a sip of water and launch into your diatribe, maybe compare the 155 Scenar to the 167 Scenar....

My pet load for my Nemesis used to be with 208 gr Amax, was really accurate, but i really nailed it with the 155 gr Scenars... For 1000 metres, the Scenars out of a 20 inch barrel 308 is much better for grouping than the 208 Amax... JP.
 
My 600 yard rig chambered in 300RUM loaded with 200gr Accubonds @ 3200fps isn't quite ready yet - well not really = the rifle and it's load are ready its me that isn't ready.

I just haven't had the time to get out enough to shoot this combo enough to risk a shot at any size of game at 600 yards.

When I do have a chance to get out I've been playing with my T/C Contenders carbines/Prohunters and practising my still hunting techniques = my longest shot on game (coastal blacktail bucks) these last 3 years was max 90 yards.
 
I have been thinking I should build the rifle into a dedicated long range rifle. By long range I mean 500 to 600 yards. With enough energy at 600 yards to down an elk or moose with the right bullet and the right shot placement of course.

My thoughts one the rifle would be something like this.

Savage 110 re-barreled to 338-06
Barrel to be a medium heavy sportter contour at 26" with recessed crown.
Trigger set to 1.5 pound pull
Piller bedded into ether a Boyds laminate or a Bell & Carlson stock with free floating barrel.

Thinking of 180 - 200 grain Barns or Nosler bullets.

Or should I just go to the 338 Win. Mag. Maybe even drop down to the 7MM Rem. Mag. I know someone will suggest the 300 Win Mag but sorry to say I have no interest in the 300 Win Mag.

Give me your thoughts as all suggestions are appreciated

Huh, this thread is going on... back to the op's original question.

I would have a look at the 338wm, I regularly shoot mine to 500, going to try 600 this winter. This is an every day hunting carry rig that weighs in around 9 and a bit. My referral to the 338wm are based on shooting 250 grn hunting bullets and taking game at 500 yards with good results. A fast 30 with a heavy for caliber bullet (think over 200 grains) would probably have a similar effect. I would not shoot .338 bullets under 225grns for distance.

Your Savage should be fine but buy a premium barrel. I put a #4 sporter contour weight on mine at a 26" length.

I think a 1.5 pound trigger weight is light for a hunting rig, think 2.5 - 3.5.

Buy good mounts and rings, think: Talley, Warne, Badger, Nightforce.

Buy good glass because there is a difference. I won't open that can of worms on this thread but suffice to say it really does matter. There is a guy on here that goes by Mystic Precision or something like that, PM him about glass, he is very knowledgable and may willing to educate someone who wants to learn.

A parting thought on energy. There is a group of us that shoot distance through the winter at paper and steel. One of the steel gongs is 1" mild steel. Up to 300 yards 3006, 7mmrm, fast 300's, 338wm, etc all make about the same divot in the steel. At 400 and 500 yards the 338wm is still gouging divots in the steel, all the rest are dusting the paint off the steel.
 
i had a 338 win mag a long time the 375 H&H is a smoother shooter and 300 gr. is a killer i used 225 in the 338 they flew the best barnes they were as i pack 3 loads as the max is to long for the mag. in the sako 85 ..i use the old av 375 for the bush
 
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