7.62x39 Chezch Milsurp Corrosive issues?

For the love of Pete: Corrosive leaves a LITTLE salt in your rifle, not 200 lbs of steel-eating acid from the planet Krypton.

If you are too frightened to pour boiling water down your bore, then pee in it!

(Children these days!! - They seem to think that "non-corrosive" is "normal" ammo... Probably don't believe we ever managed to navigate without GPS, or communicate without the internet...FFS!)

;)
 
here is my story to shrear last year decemberish i bought sks and cz858, took them to indoor range shot maybe 100 hunting rounds each back then did not know whole rifle cleaning part left it in my safe for like 6 month or so... then thru summer this time i used corrosive ammo, well dealer told me it was surrplus ammo did tell or show me how to to take care after shooting.... anyway again left rifle for month, then finally started here whole deal about corrosive ammo, can rust barrel and parts...
last night disassembled sks and cz858 found #### load of gummie stuff bot 0 rust guys
these rifles wear built to shoot surrplus ammo and pretty sure back in 1940s and 50s
guys in battle field did not have any acces to any one soapy water or boilding water/..

what i'm trying to say is these surrlpus rifles are built strong.. an totally ok to use corrosive ammo (well in my case)...
 
I'm a little leery of firing corrosive ammo in my 858, mainly because I forget to clean it after firing 20 rounds of some of that neat copper-plated Czech surplus from the '70s THEN I forgot to clean it (facepalm!). My barrel had some rust in it, but I fixed it by running a barrel brush up the barrel like I was sweeping a chimney, then oiling it.

Result: no more rust.
 
You must be very careful with this corrosive stuff! I went up to the range and fired 20 rounds through my 858. When I got home, I found that the barrel had rusted right through, and the chrome plated gas piston had been completely eaten away.
 
Try shooting a sks on a foggy/drizzely day. You will see rust forming on your gas piston the second it cools off. No big deal mind you, just oil the dammed thing before you pack up & clean when you get home. Humidity is the major factor in barrel/ gas system rust. In winter you are fine but the second ambient humidity goes back up it will start to rust. I have never used the boiling water, piss, spit or any other water based system & if I cleaned & oiled it no rust. The salts are hydroscopic but it hard to absorb water when you are soaked in oil.
 
johnone said:
SCRUFFEE;
"One thing with military grade ammo is that you're gonna have more "duds" and its not gonna be as precise as commercial ammo."

Would you mind telling me how you arrived at this conclusion ?? What makes, what years ??

John
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By experience of shooting 7.39x39, 5.56, 7.62x51 in both milsurp and commercial. My groupings have always been a bit tighter with commercial ammo. As for the duds i'm talking about military grade ammo, not necessarly czech surplus. Being in the military i fired enough rounds to get to that conclusion. I'm not talking about 1 dud for every 20 rounds but it happens more often than with commercial brands. That being said batch lots always have something to do with that. I'm not saying it will happen nor that it won't it all depends on the rifle, the ammo, etc.
 
SCRUFFEE;
I have a lot of trouble with your reasoning here....
"By experience of shooting 7.39x39, 5.56, 7.62x51 in both milsurp and commercial."
in 7.62x39 so much depends on the weapon, most are not exactly target guns

Surplus 5.56 providing you have the correct bullet weight for the twist of your rifle I have seldom noted problems....

In which weapon did you try the 7.62 nato ammo ?

I have been dealing surplus military ammo all over the world for a few decades, unless it is real junk from some unknown maker, mil ball is normaly manufactured to much higher standards than its civilian counterpart..

I would suggest a bit of research, or better yet, go visit a few producers, see for yourself....

The only "dud" problems we have seen of late is with 7.62x39 mil ball when used in some Chinese rifles, AKs or RPKs that have weak hammer springs, change that part problem cured.
John
 
AR60 said:
So I'm thinking of getting an 858 in a little while, and I have a related question...
Does the water just go down the drain? Or just dump it in a corner of the yard?... I kind of don't want to ruin the drains, or maybe the water in the city.
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I don't imagine it will do as much damage as the 130,000 to 150,000 TONNES of road salt the City of Toronto dump on the roads every year.

;)
 
i've had a number (5-10) duds in the case of check ammo i have.this may have been caused by the russian sks refurb.lots of paint overspray on/in bolt,although the primer strikes seemed deep enough.are the primers on that S&B ammo especially hard,johnone?i get a few feeding problems too,so that might be related.the norinco ammo is better quality,imho,but the S&B stuff has more oomph(power)...
 
If you had too, you could tie a knot in a bootlace then dip it motor oil, then pull it through the barrell.

Keep it oiled "the entire rifle" don't sweat the salt issue so much.
 
I shot my sks with chromed barrel, and cz858 without chrome and took them home late in the day. I didn't clean them for a couple of days. RUST ALL OVER. Inside the barrel, gas tube, some on the bolt. BUT it was all superficial. The non chromed 858 barrel has much more rust than the sks, but it cleaned up easily as well. I now make sure that I pour some boiling water with soap on all gas effected parts right away. Then normal cleaning and oiling. With that process (an extra 10-15 minutes) I have never had any problems. I also check my rifles every couple of weeks to make sure there is not rust, and I have never had a problem, even after months of storage.

Bottom line: 7.62x39 surplus is a good price, as long as you clean up afterwards.

I will add, having been told this by soldiers from the corrosive days, that boiling water WAS a part of regular cleaning. Also, the old "bore cleaners" that are still floating around here and there (but are no longer produced because they are toxic) were designed to neutralize corrosive ammo residue.
 
Im not assuming anything here all i said was from MY experiences! I don't know much about twist rates in barrels, velocity or all those fancy things on ballistic! All i said was from past experiences with civilian rifles: remington 700 in .308, my savage in .223 and both my sks and cz and military rifles: C7, C9, C6. I find that the brands and calibers I used were usually more accurate when they were commercial grade, tighter groupings. As for the duds I had more problems when shooting military ammo. You can blame it on the guns, the temp, the dust or whatever you want to. every now and then one round won't get chambered well or the primer might not get hit with ennough force. I just gave my opinion based on my observations. Some rifles shoot better with different kinds of ammo, loads, etc and some are more proned to stopages. You can get a batch of ammo, commercial or military, that will have more duds than normal. That could be the result of many things.
 
Thanks, yeah I didn't know it was just that, sometimes it kind of seemed like this corrosive thing would go through everything in three seconds. It'd be my first centerfire rifle.
 
I know a few guys at my range that were so misinformed about corrosive ammo that they would not buy a CZ because they did not want to spend 3 hours having to do some elaborate cleaning process.

People hear the word corrosive and assume it's similar to acid or something, it's just salts which attract H2O, and my cleaning process for my CZ is no different than how I clean my AR-15 or my pistols. I use some CLP to wipe it down inside then run some CLP wet patches through the barrel, that's it.

No boiling, no ammonia, no windex. The goal is to remove the salts, not sterilize it.
 
ajayofcanada said:
I know a few guys at my range that were so misinformed about corrosive ammo that they would not buy a CZ because they did not want to spend 3 hours having to do some elaborate cleaning process.

People hear the word corrosive and assume it's similar to acid or something, it's just salts which attract H2O, and my cleaning process for my CZ is no different than how I clean my AR-15 or my pistols. I use some CLP to wipe it down inside then run some CLP wet patches through the barrel, that's it.

No boiling, no ammonia, no windex. The goal is to remove the salts, not sterilize it.
Click to expand...

It's nice to read a post by a sensible man who doesn't suffer from an inordinate fear of corrosive ammo.
 
I have 2240 of corrosive ammo and plan to get more. I have 2 sks's. Both tapcoed out, one more so then the other by means of the stainless piston rod from www.fabsports.com. Do regular cleaning and all will be fine.

newersksstock.jpg

newmag1.jpg
 
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