700 bolt with no initial extraction cam
- Thread starter guntech
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Asked and answered.
Dressing the engaging surfaces of the locking lugs and receiver abutments would set the bolt back a little or a lot depending on how much metal was removed. This would increase headspace and reduce the amount of extraction camming action.
But that is not the case here.
Be patient guys... I will post as I go...
First step is to clean the bump that was left on the action camming area that caused the dent in the bolt camming area.
This has been filed and then polished with 400 grit wet/dry paper and lightly buffed. It is now smoother than it looks.
Next step will be removing the handle.
First step is to clean the bump that was left on the action camming area that caused the dent in the bolt camming area.
This has been filed and then polished with 400 grit wet/dry paper and lightly buffed. It is now smoother than it looks.
Next step will be removing the handle.
You can usually see a mark on the camming surface of the bolt handle that is made by primary extraction if there is some. Overtime, the camming surfaces can become worn and limit the primary extraction. Of all the Model 700's I have had, all have had some primary extraction, but some more than others.
Moving the bolt handle ahead and counterclockwise is, of course, the cure but it is a bit of a chore. In addition, the handles themselves are often a bit off. I have moved the handles and have also made a roller which contacted the receiver. This wasn't my idea but a copy of one which Mick McPhee had done. I have seen a lot of 700's with this flaw in recent years. There is absolutely no excuse for the manufacturer not to have caught this.
Here is a rifle I assembled from assorted parts. Receiver is one salvaged from my days in the North, barrel is from JC in Bouctouche NB. .308.
Bolt is a PT&G body, with Holland pattern handle silver brazed in place.
In this photo, the lugs are just about to disengage. Note how much cam engagement there is going to be.
While the scope is mounted higher than necessary (objective is about 7/16" above barrel) you can see how much clearance there is, and how much lower the ocular could be if desired. Scope is a 6.5-20x50 Leupold.
Here is a view showing the Holland handle. Long shank for good leverage; decent sized knob without being a tackiekewl monster. Excellent clearance between the hand and ocular when working the bolt. Wanted to try a MagPul stock. This one was on sale. Plastic and metal magazines work well. Comfortable to shoot. Boringly sub-minute.
Incidentally, of the 788 and 700 handles I've attached using the Brownells silver solder/flux paste, I've never had one detach. There are those who speak highly of TIG for attaching these handles. I know nothing about TIG, haven't used it, not likely to ever use it. But I do have oxy-acetylene, and have confidence in what I can do with it.
Bolt is a PT&G body, with Holland pattern handle silver brazed in place.
In this photo, the lugs are just about to disengage. Note how much cam engagement there is going to be.
While the scope is mounted higher than necessary (objective is about 7/16" above barrel) you can see how much clearance there is, and how much lower the ocular could be if desired. Scope is a 6.5-20x50 Leupold.
Here is a view showing the Holland handle. Long shank for good leverage; decent sized knob without being a tackiekewl monster. Excellent clearance between the hand and ocular when working the bolt. Wanted to try a MagPul stock. This one was on sale. Plastic and metal magazines work well. Comfortable to shoot. Boringly sub-minute.
Incidentally, of the 788 and 700 handles I've attached using the Brownells silver solder/flux paste, I've never had one detach. There are those who speak highly of TIG for attaching these handles. I know nothing about TIG, haven't used it, not likely to ever use it. But I do have oxy-acetylene, and have confidence in what I can do with it.
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I cleaned up the surfaces of the silver solder that was left... dicked around a bit... had to grind off the front side of the handle so it would allow more movement ahead... I too have never had a silver soldered one break loose. I'll stick with it.
This is how much engagement I should end up with.
Held in place with altered Vice Grips
just touching the cam...
after camming back...
I would like more... I may adjust it more before soldering...
This is how much engagement I should end up with.
Held in place with altered Vice Grips
just touching the cam...
after camming back...
I would like more... I may adjust it more before soldering...
Are you saying Remington will not take action?
It is in the interest of the client to get Remington to pay for the repair rather than be out of pocket themselves. This is not caused by hot hand loaded ammo or someone bubba-ing the gun; this is a manufacturing defect that was present on the day the rifle left the factory and therefore should be Remington's problem to fix regardless of who or when the rifle was purchased.
Remington isn't going to pay for the repair. From a liability standpoint, they aren't going to touch a repair that is outside their control. Remediation at an authorized depot would be the only option if Remington is involved. Generally manufacturers are really hinky about replacing/exchanging bolts. Unless they do the installation, they aren't going to get involved.
The soldering came out a solid as could be. I used sheet silver solder and it flowed out evenly, everywhere.
Didn't slip and the cocking area on the bolt is still hard so I don't need to re heat treat that area.
Just need to clean up a bit. Lots of extraction now...
Didn't slip and the cocking area on the bolt is still hard so I don't need to re heat treat that area.
Just need to clean up a bit. Lots of extraction now...
Here is one I am repairing for a friend. Custom single shot precision rifle action made in 1998. Handle failed in 2019. Currently in 7mmWSM, load was a bit warm, extraction was a bit hard, handle separated. To get the bolt body out, I had to pull the barrel. Remington type, but not a Remington bolt. Over the years, a lot of rounds were fired.
Note that the silver solder covers less than half the saddle. Amazing it held as long as it did.
Receiver is composite. Aluminum body, with steel inserts at the front for the barrel threads and locking abutments, and a steel insert for extraction camming.
Cone nosed bolt.
The action.
Note that the silver solder covers less than half the saddle. Amazing it held as long as it did.
Receiver is composite. Aluminum body, with steel inserts at the front for the barrel threads and locking abutments, and a steel insert for extraction camming.
Cone nosed bolt.
The action.
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Nice work guys.
I've never used "sheet" type silver solder. Never heard of it until now.
I just coat the bottom of the handle with silver solder and heat up the bolt body in the appropriate place, until it flows out all around. Works well, I'm still using one of the rifles and have rebarreled it twice when the throats were pushed to far forward from shooting.
I don't do enough of that type of work. I don't avoid it, just don't get the opportunity. Not that I'm complaining.
Again, very nice work guys.
I've never used "sheet" type silver solder. Never heard of it until now.
I just coat the bottom of the handle with silver solder and heat up the bolt body in the appropriate place, until it flows out all around. Works well, I'm still using one of the rifles and have rebarreled it twice when the throats were pushed to far forward from shooting.
I don't do enough of that type of work. I don't avoid it, just don't get the opportunity. Not that I'm complaining.
Again, very nice work guys.
Thanks for the great pictures. Gonna steal the idea for the ground out locking pliers jaws too!
Any jewellery supply house should be able to supply sheet solders, used a lot for work on that sort of scale. I still have a few pieces of gold sheet solder around.
Another option, if you really want the stuff, is to have the solder wire run through a goldsmiths roller mill.
Given the state of tech these days, it might even be worth inquiring direct through the solder manufacturers, there is a lot of induction heated soldering going on that uses both sheet and powder solders mixed in a flux paste.
