9mm or 40 S&W???

Hey man, speaking of Berettas. I have a Beretta 92fs on the way,,, at about how many rounds would you need to change out the recoil spring? Or barrel? Or Recoil spring rod?

I think the Beretta 92 series is a great platform. The 96 had its issues but for the most part it performed when it needed to. It's been awhile (16 years) since I worked on Beretta's or attended their schools. Iirc, they recommended changing the recoil spring at 5,000 rounds. I also replaced trigger springs about then to. Don't worry about the barrel or guide rod, it's unlikely you will need to replace those. You should keep an eye on the locking block, though the 9mm will likely never cause you issues unless you are hand loading max loads or getting way high on round count. That is where we experienced most of our serious issues in the 96's, with about 15 breaking at around the 10,000 rd mark, usually less. Enjoy your 92fs!
 
I think the Beretta 92 series is a great platform. The 96 had its issues but for the most part it performed when it needed to. It's been awhile (16 years) since I worked on Beretta's or attended their schools. Iirc, they recommended changing the recoil spring at 5,000 rounds. I also replaced trigger springs about then to. Don't worry about the barrel or guide rod, it's unlikely you will need to replace those. You should keep an eye on the locking block, though the 9mm will likely never cause you issues unless you are hand loading max loads or getting way high on round count. That is where we experienced most of our serious issues in the 96's, with about 15 breaking at around the 10,000 rd mark, usually less. Enjoy your 92fs!

thanks. I dont reload at all, so it will just be factory ammo.
 
9mm in a .40 case. Hard to find, expensive to buy.

I want one.

Badly.

Yep, But it can be a real pain until you get it sorted out, that being said, it sure is a fun round to shoot once you get the bugs out and a good load worked up, FYI, dont bother resizing 40 cases use proper 357 sig brass, less headaches, and Berrys makes a hollow base 9mm projectile just for the 357 sig which gives it a bit longer body.
 
It seems to me that the ideal scenario is to buy a .40 that allows for the use of a 9mm barrel as mentioned a few times here. So far it seems Glock and S&W are the two manufactures most commonly linked to this set up. Does anyone have any knowledge about issues or negative aspects to this? Is accuracy affected? Unusual wear? Feed or eject issues? I've read elsewhere that 9mm mags are required as well to make it all work properly. I would think that anyone torn between 9mm and .40 would be interested in this.
 
It seems to me that the ideal scenario is to buy a .40 that allows for the use of a 9mm barrel as mentioned a few times here. So far it seems Glock and S&W are the two manufactures most commonly linked to this set up. Does anyone have any knowledge about issues or negative aspects to this? Is accuracy affected? Unusual wear? Feed or eject issues? I've read elsewhere that 9mm mags are required as well to make it all work properly. I would think that anyone torn between 9mm and .40 would be interested in this.

I use KKM conversion barrels in my Glock .40's and they are as accurate or more accurate than the stock Glock barrels. All I do is use a 9mm magazine, no issues.

I just wish the KKM barrels had a black Tenifer finish!
 
I own both the 9mm and the .40 in the M&P. I prefer to shoot the .40 but the 9mm is easier on the hand for long range sessions. The 9mm is cheaper to shoot as well. Buy both and save yourself the dilemma. You know your gonna get both sooner or later anyway.
 
Buy both and reload. The best thing about 40sw is alot of guns in this caliber are being sold and for cheep. Most people are turning away from them now that alot of law enforcement agencies are . Without getting into a #### comparing contest about what is better, they are both solid calibers that offer pros and cons of their own.
 
There are significant differences between the 9mm and the .40 S&W. That's why the .40 was developed. There is an interesting video on YouTube called Miami Shootout that describes a firefight in the '80s between the FBI and two bank robbers. The FBI got hurt because they were outgunned (by a rifle), so asked S&W to come up with a better load. The .40 was the answer.

However, that was then. If you want similar muzzle energy to the .40, you can buy +P 9mm, or you can load the 9 to +P or +P+. That makes a slightly smaller hole, goes faster and has more energy. In a ballistic gel test, 9s should penetrate deeper, depending on everything. Bullet expansion, for example.

As noted, paper doesn't care, and I have never shot gel. I have both .40 S&W and 9mm barrels for my Sig P229, and I can't tell the difference in recoil. Just insensitive, I guess.
 
The 9mm gives you an extra 200 rds /1000 vs the .40.
9mm guns hold resale better vs their. 40 kin. If you are a new shooter, the. 40 definitely kicks more which makes the learning curve a bit steeper.
Paper will not care what size hole you put in it.

^^^This. Only other factor to consider is if you're going to IPSC.... Something about .40 makes "Major" while 9mm doesn't. Talk to an IPSC guy for more details.
 
Limp wristing has NOTHING to do with the gun and is entirely user related. I have tried to limp wrist my Glocks and just can't make it happen. Guess mine are broke.

I know this..have never had an issue myself but it still can be an issue for some. That is a design flaw. It doesnt happen with a beretta. Ive been primarly a glock guy but i never drank that much koolaid that i cant be honest.
 
I know this..have never had an issue myself but it still can be an issue for some. That is a design flaw. It doesnt happen with a beretta. Ive been primarly a glock guy but i never drank that much koolaid that i cant be honest.

The Glock slide is heavy compared to its overall weight. S&W scalped the M&P slide to avoid the issue. KIDDX if you can't jam your Glock by limp wristing the gun you are either not trying or you don't know how to do it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UZiFRYVWP90

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H_Uqtz2asE4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jh9JhCyFFxA

The Glock platform is a great proven design but it does not handle limp wristing well.

Take care

Bob
 
The Glock slide is heavy compared to its overall weight. S&W scalped the M&P slide to avoid the issue. KIDDX if you can't jam your Glock by limp wristing the gun you are either not trying or you don't know how to do it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UZiFRYVWP90

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H_Uqtz2asE4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jh9JhCyFFxA

The Glock platform is a great proven design but it does not handle limp wristing well.

Take care

Bob

Thanks. Was gonna post those vids.
 
I know this..have never had an issue myself but it still can be an issue for some. That is a design flaw. It doesnt happen with a beretta. Ive been primarly a glock guy but i never drank that much koolaid that i cant be honest.

Limp wristing is an issue with the shooter and if the shooter is limp wristing then they aren't hitting anything to begin with. Not being able to drive a manual transmission is not a design flaw it's an operator error.

The Glock slide is heavy compared to its overall weight. S&W scalped the M&P slide to avoid the issue. KIDDX if you can't jam your Glock by limp wristing the gun you are either not trying or you don't know how to do it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UZiFRYVWP90

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H_Uqtz2asE4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jh9JhCyFFxA

The Glock platform is a great proven design but it does not handle limp wristing well.

Take care

Bob

I actually dropped my pistol attempting to limp wrist it(one round only) and it wouldn't do it. The videos show very pathetic grips to the point where you wouldn't be able to make hits on anything and may even drop the gun. The first video the guy had to hold the pistol in a specific orientation to induce the stoppage. I guess you could say lightweight guns suffer from limp wristing, but you could also say all guns suffer from poor accuracy when you slap the trigger.
 
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Limp wristing is an issue with the shooter and if the shooter is limp wristing then they aren't hitting anything to begin with. Not being able to drive a manual transmission is not a design flaw it's an operator error.



I actually dropped my pistol attempting to limp wrist it(one round only) and it wouldn't do it. The videos show very pathetic grips to the point where you wouldn't be able to make hits on anything and may even drop the gun. The first video the guy had to hold the pistol in a specific orientation to induce the stoppage. I guess you could say lightweight guns suffer from limp wristing, but you could also say all guns suffer from poor accuracy when you slap the trigger.

The guy in the video is demonstrating what can happen. A person injured for example may have a very week grip, that could cause a malfunction in a glock. That is a design flaw, as it shouldn't matter which way you hold it, it should work period.

Its very rare indeed, I never had the issue myself but im not so blind as to not be able to admit that it could become an issue in some rare circumstances. Now go away TDC.
 
The guy in the video is demonstrating what can happen. A person injured for example may have a very week grip, that could cause a malfunction in a glock. That is a design flaw, as it shouldn't matter which way you hold it, it should work period.

Its very rare indeed, I never had the issue myself but im not so blind as to not be able to admit that it could become an issue in some rare circumstances. Now go away TDC.


If you're so injured that you can limp wrist the gun then I don't think there's much hope you'll survive the encounter. I we could say that an exposed hammer gun is subject to blood and bone blocking the hammer and causing a failure to fire. The potential for a limp wrist stoppage is so remote it's not even worth discussing.
 
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