accraglass substitute

J-B Weld will work. I used it to bed my 10/22 and am satisfied with the results.
 
X2 for JB Weld or even JB Quick/Kwik(sp?) ! It's my favorite for small bedding jobs and casual epoxy needs! Price is right also!

:cheers:
Barney
 
I wouldn't use fiberglass! Fiberglass during the chemical reaction with the catalyst gets warm resulting in expansion in the metal action & also in the wood stock. Not the tight fit you want for bedding.
 
Most of the meatl repair compunds will work well. The fast setting JB weld will work, there is a devcon metal epoxy that works well. I used a loctite brand metal welding compound last time I bedded a rifle, worked well, no shrinkage after and it produced a fine fit. Can be found at Canadian tire for under 10 bucks.
 
Thanks for the replies. I guess when it comes right down to it, two part epoxy glues are "More or Less" the same. I have some Permatex "Cold Weld" that I was told is the same as JB Weld. I have nothing but good to say about JB Weld. Amazing stuff. I also found some Stuff out in the garage that I am going to try, made by "Goop" called "Plumbers Weld" It's a high temp metalized epoxy with a compression strength of 36000 psi. that bonds to almost everything except "Teflon" It also has a No Sag formula and a working time of 20 min. at 70 degrees F. I am guessing that pretty much any spray lube will work OK as a release agent. Last time I did one I used Aero paste wax. Worked OK
 
"...wouldn't use fiberglass..." Finely ground fibreglass has been used as filler in the Acraglas kits for eons. It's not layers of fibreglas.
 
IIRC, Acraglas is available in a 4 to 1 mix resin epoxy, not a fibreglas resin. Fibreglas "flock" can be added. Acraglas is also available in a 1 to 1 mix ideal for bedding as it is not runny like the 4 to 1.
 
Okay, here's what I did, and it worked like a charm. Use auto body filler (Bondo) from Canadian Tire, the one with fiberglass bits in it, and use Pam as the release agent. It never moved, cracked or shifted.
 
2 of my F-Class rigs are bedded with JB Weld (not the Kwik) and they shoot great. The other is bedded with Marine-Tex and I can't tell the difference between the two.

I have a tub of Devcon Plastic Steel Putty to see if it is any better than the JB for my next rig.
 
I wouldn't use fiberglass! Fiberglass during the chemical reaction with the catalyst gets warm resulting in expansion in the metal action & also in the wood stock. Not the tight fit you want for bedding.
You would have to be using a LOT of polyester resin and hardener for the heat that is developed to affect a bedding job. BTW most epoxies also develop heat as they cure.

The main reason why epoxy is used over polyester resin, is that it tends to be easier to work with and most of the epoxies sold in bedding kits have a longer shelf life than polyester resins.
Mixing epoxy resins is usually done in fixed ratios, the ratio of catalyst that is used with polyester resins can be varied depending on ambient temperature, humidity, rate of cure desired, so more experience is needed.

I have used polyester resins (mostly tooling resin) for almost 20 years, for bedding rifles and building stocks. The gentleman who taught me how to work fiberglass (he is a boatbuilder with 48 years experience in fiberglass) has used it even longer than me with no complaints.
 
What was used successfully to bed the .303 no.4's was a mixture of fibreglass insulation and epoxy. Clean the stock seat area well with methyl alcohol, mix the 2 part epoxy up, tear off little bits of the fibreglass insulation and mix it into epoxy mix, carefully apply the mixture into the bedding seat, use a couple of 4 x 2's, fore and aft as spacers between the barrel and the stock.
 
acraglass is not 50 dollers.and all acraglass is, is aircraft grade fiberglass. which means it shrinks less then 1 percent of 1 percent. most proven product in the firearms industrie,why would you use anything else?
 
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