turbo_bird
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Kamloops, BC
Another thing that can effect accuracy is how square the bolt face is and the headspace for the rim. An article I read on rimfirecentral on how to build what they called a superstock rifle talked about that. I used a small machinist square and a file to true mine up, it was out of square a surprising amount. The stock barrel can probably be improved with a decent crown too, and bedding the action will make things more consistent as well. Here's a 5 shot group from 50 yards with CCI standard from my 10/22 target model, with nothing but the original Ruger parts that I fiddled with a bit.
I wish I was a good enough shot that I could shoot groups like that all the time, but I'm not. A trigger job isn't hard if you have a fine stone, but to make the stock trigger really good you have to do more than that. Power Custom sells a hammer and sear pair that have set screws to adjust sear engagement and to take the slop out of the disconnector, which really shortens up the reset. It's not real hard to do it yourself, you just have to anneal the parts before drilling and tapping them, then re-harden them after. A MAPP torch from Canadian tire works. And the best part of doing it yourself is that even if you mess it up, you're only out the cost of the aftermarket parts you were probably going to buy anyway. Here's a link to a PDF that shows what I'm talking about, plus a bunch of other good info. It's old, but I just downloaded it to try, and it still works.
https://sites.google.com/site/rigra...sachandsawdustway.pdf?=&attredirects=1#37;3D=
I'm sure this stuff isn't for everyone, but I like to tinker with stuff and try to make it better rather than just throw money at a project.
Kristian
I wish I was a good enough shot that I could shoot groups like that all the time, but I'm not. A trigger job isn't hard if you have a fine stone, but to make the stock trigger really good you have to do more than that. Power Custom sells a hammer and sear pair that have set screws to adjust sear engagement and to take the slop out of the disconnector, which really shortens up the reset. It's not real hard to do it yourself, you just have to anneal the parts before drilling and tapping them, then re-harden them after. A MAPP torch from Canadian tire works. And the best part of doing it yourself is that even if you mess it up, you're only out the cost of the aftermarket parts you were probably going to buy anyway. Here's a link to a PDF that shows what I'm talking about, plus a bunch of other good info. It's old, but I just downloaded it to try, and it still works.
https://sites.google.com/site/rigra...sachandsawdustway.pdf?=&attredirects=1#37;3D=
I'm sure this stuff isn't for everyone, but I like to tinker with stuff and try to make it better rather than just throw money at a project.
Kristian
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