Accurizing a Ruger 10/22 where to start

Another thing that can effect accuracy is how square the bolt face is and the headspace for the rim. An article I read on rimfirecentral on how to build what they called a superstock rifle talked about that. I used a small machinist square and a file to true mine up, it was out of square a surprising amount. The stock barrel can probably be improved with a decent crown too, and bedding the action will make things more consistent as well. Here's a 5 shot group from 50 yards with CCI standard from my 10/22 target model, with nothing but the original Ruger parts that I fiddled with a bit.
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I wish I was a good enough shot that I could shoot groups like that all the time, but I'm not. A trigger job isn't hard if you have a fine stone, but to make the stock trigger really good you have to do more than that. Power Custom sells a hammer and sear pair that have set screws to adjust sear engagement and to take the slop out of the disconnector, which really shortens up the reset. It's not real hard to do it yourself, you just have to anneal the parts before drilling and tapping them, then re-harden them after. A MAPP torch from Canadian tire works. And the best part of doing it yourself is that even if you mess it up, you're only out the cost of the aftermarket parts you were probably going to buy anyway. Here's a link to a PDF that shows what I'm talking about, plus a bunch of other good info. It's old, but I just downloaded it to try, and it still works.
https://sites.google.com/site/rigra...sachandsawdustway.pdf?=&attredirects=1#37;3D=
I'm sure this stuff isn't for everyone, but I like to tinker with stuff and try to make it better rather than just throw money at a project.
Kristian
 
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Ask yourself honestly what you want out of your 10/22. A good shooting CZ 452 Varmint is likely to shoot better, and for less money than a highly upgraded 10/22. So if accuracy is your main goal, I'd listen to the people telling you to sell it and buy something else.

That said, if you really want to stick with the platform and see what's possible, I'd focus on the barrel and trigger as they will make the most difference. Beyond that, finding and using the ammo the gun likes best is of crucial importance.

My current "10/22" project has zero Ruger parts, every single piece is aftermarket. It will be used with two different charging handles/springs: one for hunting/plinking regular HV ammo, and one tuned for sub-sonic target ammo.

It's kind of like doing up a Honda: you should really just buy something better if you want performance, but it's fun to mess around with them, and there are a bunch of people who like to tweak and improve them despite their inherent performance flaws.
 
Buy a magnum research, tactical solutions, Kidd, volquartsen, built off the shelf rifle preferably used so you don’t have to part out your build when you get bored of it. If you get a mag research change the trigger group.
 
Its called sell it and buy something else. I've had 3 now some seem to shoot and others don't no matter what you dump into them.
 
Would like to shoot more accurately with a ruger 10/22. What are the parts that somebody should start with. Barrel? trigger? For those of you who went the longer way of modifying one thing at a time, what was the part or parts group that made the best bang for your buck regarding precision?

Like the guys who shoot the Know your limit kinda target. The last one is 1/4". That is the same size as the dang bullet. Obviously they have some money in their 10/22 but some guys do it against guys with bolt action rimfire. Now I don't want to put 2000$ in it. So where to start. Tks


This is the video i'm talking about

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GbHMV8G9EQk&t=208s

Good Morning Black Jack

Whatever will be your final built, I strongly suggest to only use target grade European ammunition. Based on my personal experience with my modified 10-22's, the best bang for the buck are with .22LR SK Magazine. They worked very well for me and are just a bit more expensive than CCI Target. If you try a higher grade of ammunition, like Lapua Middas, you will waist your money and you wont have noticeable better results in your 10-22. Avoid low grade of Eley; in my opinion, they are junk.

Another thing, most of people possibly wont agree with me; if you can get one, purchase a 12'' barrel instead of a 20'' but add more weight into your laminated stock.

One day....when I will have time (???? when???), I will make a complete thread on my ''DIY modifications'' on my 10-22 and I will demonstrate results that can be achieved with OEM Ruger lightweight sporter barrel (chamber set back, fire lapping and re-crowning), OEM bolt (tuning and headspacing) and stock (bedding, but not like you see on the Web)...

Good Luck with your project !

EX
 
The alternative to what turbo_bird speaks of DIYing is a bolt job by CPC h ttp://www.ct-precision.com/1022rework.html and a trigger job by Brimstone h ttps://www.brimstonegunsmithing.com/collections/ruger-10-22-trigger-work . Even a Tier 3 trigger upgrade will do wonders compared to the stock Ruger trigger.
 
Barrel for pure mechanical accuracy, trigger for your own consistency, try a bunch of different ammo until you find what the bbl likes. A quality stock that fits you properly and is plenty rigid, bedding if necessary. Top 2 would be the bbl and trigger for me.

^^^^
This
 
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