Advanced Reloading: 14.5x114

Meph

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So I've undertaken a difficult challenge. Having a PTRD is nice by itself, but shooting it is an issue as there seems to be practically no ammunition or reloading components; I knew this when I purchased the rifle, but the totality of this unavailability is just impressive. I have good reloading experience, but nothing like this before.

She's a pretty one (the bipod should be coming soon), enjoy a picture. Many thanks to the Collector's Source for their wonderful service, they were great to deal with, I highly recommend them.



If you want/require more, or want detail on certain parts of the rifle, feel free to ask.

Back on topic, so far I've ordered :

3.5lbs of Cerrosafe, more than enough for the large chamber (I know it expands around 0.0025" after a while)
12 feet of 416 stainless steel for cartridge cases
4" round bar stock for the dies I'm going to make (once I have chamber dimensions). I landed on that big bar stock for pennies and it doesn't hurt to have a bit more steel when the press I'll be using has actual tons (lots of tons) of force and not just a little handle to pull on.

I am a machinist, I have access to lathes, milling machines carbide insert-tip drills, boring bars, large hydraulic presses, and good measuring equipment. In terms of tooling, and manufacturing capacity, I'm not too bad. What I lack is a bit of knowledge, and I hope you fine gents may be of assistance. I know the 14.5x114 has a case capacity of 655 grains of H2O, and when my cerrosafe comes in, I'll be able to accurately measure the volume of the chamber, or the volume and external dimensions of the case. With a simple bore slugging, I will know how thick the neck of the case has to be for around a thou of clearance and around a thou of neck tension on the bullet. I plan to drill the case from the round bar stock of stainless steel, cut the body taper, and cut the extractor groove. Then I believe I'll have to fill the case with water, freeze it, and run it through the dies in the massive press at work - I'm afraid of the case folding or crushing when the neck is being formed in the die, I think the ice will support the shoulder as it's being sized, while crushing out of the way and melting when the sizing is complete. Finally, I'll cut a 50 BMG primer pocket and flash hole.

My questions are as follows:

1. Is the ice thing pure folly? Should I just use multiple dies to gradually bring the neck and shoulders to size?

2. Does 416 require heat treatments before, during, and/or after to make a functional cartridge case?

3. I lack is information on the case thickness at the case body, web, and case head. I want to have a similar case capacity (very close to 655 grains of H2O), but I'm not sure how to calculate that pre-sizing when the case doesn't have the shoulders and neck. I'm not sure how thick to make the case, how thick the web should be, or how thick the case body needs to be, and what taper that thickness will have going to the shoulders and neck. The current plan is to extrapolate from a .50 BMG case, cut and size one case, check the capacity, and make adjustments if it's too far off.

4. Will the case become shorter during the should and neck forming, or will it stretch as it's being sized? I don't want to cut my stock material too short or too long; I should have enough for 30 cases out of the 12' rod.

5. I'll be using banded copper or brass solids, I can turn those too. Is there a specific alloy that people often use for this type of thing?

6. I also don't know what powder load will be safe to start with. I have some old Quickload data, but I'm not exactly going to flat out trust that right out of the program; there may be variables that should be considered with something like this, and I would absolutely love to have any information from prior or similar experience that could lead to a safe shooting load. I've heard a few stories of PTRDs suffering permanent spontaneous disassembly from modern 14.5x114 KPV machine gun ammo, I do not want that to happen. I hear 50BMG powders work, but are fast-burning for this caliber, do slower powders exist that are available in Canada?

Sorry about the very long-winded post, and thanks for your time.
 
since you can make a die that is perfect for your chamber, i recommend going to brass cases, even soft brass that is perfectly fitted and not over worked by reloading will last quite a while
 
Can you mass produce bullets for sale to others?
I suppose that CNC would far more efficient than turning them manually.
 
since you can make a die that is perfect for your chamber, i recommend going to brass cases, even soft brass that is perfectly fitted and not over worked by reloading will last quite a while

From what I understand of brass cases, turning brass will not forge the strength required for even the softest loads. If I understand it correctly, brass cases are forged out of brass disks by extensive machinery, are annealed at the body, shoulders and neck before final forming, and usually annealed at the shoulders and neck once it is sized. The case head and web are both tough and hard from the forging process, the body is in between, and the shoulders/neck are malleable. Such a process is a little out of my expertise, and I don't think even the big press at work has the horsepower to forge brass like that. Maybe, but I don't know. I also don't have that much experience with brass heat treatment, I hear it is a touchy affair, and can easily turn brass uselessly soft or too hard, cracking immediately.

Again, I'm no expert in brass cartridge metallurgy, but I got the impression that even a very soft load (anything over black powder pressure) will obliterate turned brass cases.

I hope this isn't all utter nonsense, as the internet can put strange things in one's head.

Thanks for the input, this is a valuable consideration regardless.
 
Can you mass produce bullets for sale to others?
I suppose that CNC would far more efficient than turning them manually.

I'm going to make or acquire an external radius cutting tool for a lathe, the rest can be done easily with an external turning tool and a parting tool. Brass or copper cuts easily, so once I get the feel of it I'd probably be chucking out a bullet every few minutes, maybe a little slower at first if I don't have access to the DRO lathe.

I can easily write a program for a CNC lathe (I wrote a cute one for a banded .458" solid, worked like a charm on the HAAS OL-1). I don't have access to a CNC lathe, sadly. However, I may eventually look into CNC lathes or even contractors that would take a job like this. With a bar feeder and a part-timer to mic the bullets as they spit out, it would be fairly economical, relatively speaking. Depends of the order size.
 
Before you go way off the deep end you should touch base with Rick at ATRS. He knows lot about loading for big beasties.

I did call ATRS a while ago. Not too sure who I spoke to, but that person told me they subcontracted 14.5 and 20mm stuff, and individual stainless cases run around 200 bucks each. That person didn't have much more information than that, but I'll send Rick a PM, perhaps he has a few pointers.
 
If you do wind up using a cnc lathe could you PM me the results?

I own a cnc lathe and am fairly interested in this.

What controller does it use? What G and M codes can it use? I could write up some stuff and we could work on it. Feel free to PM.
 
I remember a surplus store in Great Falls MT that had both the brass and bullets for the 14.5..The name escapes me but may have to poke around a bit..
dB
 
Tagged to this thread, I am working on this process for my PTRS, so this is very relevant to me right now.

How did you get your hands on the big boy SKS? How is it? I wouldn't mind seeing pictures...

Back on topic, what do you have so far for ammo, or reloading components?
 
Absolutely zip for components and reloading gear, but looking to get the press and dies from ch4d.

I have some odds and ends I can post here that I have collected, nothing crazy, it may or may not help. but i'll throw them up anyways. Right now I am on mobile, so I'll post those and pics on sunday or monday when home.
 
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