Advise on long range hunting setup needed

chin_dude

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I am hoping to put together a new rifle to hunt elk and moose limited to 450-500 yrds, what scope in the 5-600 dollar range?

-300 wsm savage 116 lh
-vais brake
-egm base
-burris extreme tact rings
- optics?

Advise would be appreciated
Thanks
Derek
 
Brake is essential to LRH. You need to be able to spot the shot.

He is only talking 450 to 500 yards. I have killed several big game animals at that distance without having a braked rifle. In fact, I find the dust and snow thrown up by a brake, to be a disadvantage when big game hunting.
 
-300 wsm savage 116 lh I would go 300 WIN MAG, more options in ammo, ammo is far more readily available and there is NO advantage to the WSMs

-vais brake There are better options especially if you plan to shoot prone, which you pretty much have for long shots.

-egm base I am not strong on any base made of 6061 aluminum, a rail is a great plan, but I would advise buying a steel rail. having 1s expensive optic fall off due to a rail failure sucks.

-burris extreme tact rings Again there are better options that are much less bulky. There is no need at all for 6 screws on a decent set of rings , 4 is even too much frankly
For the same money better rings exist.


- optics? Buy the best you can afford long range hunting has its challenges, to be able to see what you are shooting is only a small part of the equation, repeatable turrets are invaluable, a well thought out reticle that does not hinder your sight is very important. A larger object will deliver more light to your eye and clarity is paramount.
 
He is only talking 450 to 500 yards. I have killed several big game animals at that distance without having a braked rifle. In fact, I find the dust and snow thrown up by a brake, to be a disadvantage when big game hunting.

Well, we agree to disagree. Spotting the hit and being able to watch the animal from hit to fall is more important to me. Lots of brakes are setup to send the dust sideways, this has never been an issue with me. Not to mention 500 yard shooting requires practice and its not easy to throw a bunch of rounds downrange with consistency in a magnum with no brake.

And I agree about the Burris Extreme rings. They are a huge pain in the ass. Burris Signature or even lapped Zee rings would be better. Although I have had great success with EGW mounts, even on a magnum, but Rick's experiences could be different. Ken Farrel makes a decently priced steel mount, I just don't like how high they sit.
 
Well, we agree to disagree. Spotting the hit and being able to watch the animal from hit to fall is more important to me. Lots of brakes are setup to send the dust sideways, this has never been an issue with me. Not to mention 500 yard shooting requires practice and its not easy to throw a bunch of rounds downrange with consistency in a magnum with no brake.

And I agree about the Burris Extreme rings. They are a huge pain in the ass. Burris Signature or even lapped Zee rings would be better. Although I have had great success with EGW mounts, even on a magnum, but Rick's experiences could be different. Ken Farrel makes a decently priced steel mount, I just don't like how high they sit.

The Burris Signature and Zee rings are OK but I do not like the very small diameter cross bolt, to me this defeats the purpose of a pic rail, as the rings can move back and forth. I like the inserts of the Signature rings but good quality rings like NF or TPS would get my nod.

I agree Farrel makes a good rail but too thick!! Ours are much thinner and are made of stainless steel but cost a few $$ more.
 
Spotting the hit and being able to watch the animal from hit to fall is more important to me.

Once you pull the trigger, you can't take it back, either the hit is good, or it isn't. If the animal is standing after the shot, I shoot again, if it runs into cover, it really doesn't matter, as there won't likely be a second chance. As far as game animals running off after being hit, I haven't had one make 50 yards in the past 15 years or so,

Lots of brakes are setup to send the dust sideways,

The vais that he specifically mentions, throws debris in all directions.

Not to mention 500 yard shooting requires practice and its not easy to throw a bunch of rounds downrange with consistency in a magnum with no brake.

I shot both my 7mmstws, and my 300 RUMS much more than the average shooter, and I haven't found it necessary to brake any of them in order to shoot them accurately.

Below are three 100 yard groups fired consecutively with one of my unbraked 300RUM rifles. I don't use lead sleds or any type of gun vice either. My 500 yard groups also average well under moa with that rifle, which is plenty good for 500 yard shots on big game animals..

300ultramaggroups.jpg
 
Thanks everyone for you input so far, i will be getting a brake and if not the vais which one would you rec ? Also what ring and bases? I will prob get a savage lh undecieded yet
 
Thanks everyone for you input so far, i will be getting a brake and if not the vais which one would you rec ? Also what ring and bases? I will prob get a savage lh undecieded yet

I think Savage LH long action would feed much smoother with 300Win mag or better jet with cool and more accurate (longer neck) 308 Norma Mag used by many at 1000yds matches. Quality and med heavy 26" long barrel (with brake included) would deliver plenty of accuracy, speed and energy for elk and moose hunting at 500yds and beyond.....
 
Buy the best glass you can and practice shooting with your muzzle break money.

.300 wsm or wm are not worthy of a muzzle break….. sorry.

If you can’t spot your shots practice more with a smaller calibre and get rid of the sissy flinch.
 
Go with what you want on the gun. Its your gun build.
Sight it in using a lead sled or something simular. A mildot scope such as a Bushnell 3200 elite would allow you to use different milldots for different ranges. Or any good quality milldot scope. A good set of shooting sticks. A little practice shooting from them. Your good to go. While sighting in a friends 300wsm I used one of those shoulder pads. It was hidden under my coat and he wondered why I could just sit there sending them down range. Thankyou Past Recoil Protection.
 
.300 wsm or wm are not worthy of a muzzle break….. sorry.
sorry, but that's nonsense.
+1 on this comment. There's a big difference between a rifle you are able to fire without having it hurt you, and a rifle that you can fire without wanting to flinch.

I shoot a .308 target rifle that at ~13+ pounds is likely heavier than most long range hunting rifles, so it is a pussycat compared to a hunting-weight .308 or any of the heaver .300 magnums. I have shot it for more than 15 years, shooting at least 1000 rounds a year in matches. For what it's worth I still struggle very hard to fire a 10-shot match without flinching.
 
I have always felt that Savage offers a good quality gun for the average shooter, on a limited budget, most of their rifles will be suitable.

I would agree with several other members, for long range, large animal shooting I'd go for the .300 Win Mag over the .300 WSM. Win Mag is easier to find and generally sells for a fair bit less than WSM. Plus the Win Mag provides very good knock down energy.

Last weekend I friend of mine came over with his new Savage 110 FCP HS in .338 and a Savage 111 Long Range Hunter in .300 Win Mag.

The long range hunter may be a bit out of your price range, but after shooting it, I was very impressed with it. If I were putting together a package for the type of hunting you want to do, it would a gun I would seriously look at.

The LRH comes with an adjustable Karsten cheek rest and a selectable brake. Although it may not be as effective as a high end after market brake, the factory brake can be switched on/off by rotating the outer sleeve which I thought could be handy.

As mentioned above, mount the best quality scope you can afford on your gun, with a steel rail and the likes of TPS or NF rings.

Oh, after shooting my buddies 110 FCP HS in .338 LM, this will be the next rifle I'm going to buy!!!
 
Fantasy check , use a good set of legs

Why you need to take long range shot. How many long range shots you have taken and in practice ? Why not do your self a favor and buy some thing like this and put it into a good use - Biggs

1n7715563-cartoon-dog-running-on-tread-mill-isolated-on-white-background.jpg
 
^^ Bullets get there faster than I can run, period. On my basic, my Mcpl hated the, "Why would I run right at the enemy and make it easier for him to shoot me, when I can shoot him from here argument". No deer don't shoot back, but running right at them has never worked for me. Good optics and practice keep tracking easy when it's in a heap once your sight picture returns.

I practice long range shots plenty.
 
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