"Affordable" Carbine tac light?

I guess there's tradeoffs.

I'll have to see how much of a shadow my flashlight makes mounted by the optic - although, a lot of the side mounted lights looks like they'd cast a decent shadow as well.

There are trade offs, but the further forward you go the smaller and less dark the shadow gets. Current trend is to run the light forward on the front sight post on ARs at 12 oclock. That both nearly eliminates the shadow and makes the switching accessable.

Whether or not any of this matters depends on the use you forsee. For those of us that may be shooting people it matters alot, range use only not so much. YMMV

misanthropist is spot on on the points I forgot to mention.

Shawn
 
On the Fenix PD32, when you hit the momentary at the back what lumen is it for. Or does it momentary whatever lumen you have it set on. Very new to tactical lights and weapons in general so don't hate too much lol

If you are setting up a gun for "tac" use it should be sigle output, preferably momentary only, but momentary and on off works too. As for your actual question I have no clue lol.

Shawn
 
If you are setting up a gun for "tac" use it should be sigle output, preferably momentary only, but momentary and on off works too. As for your actual question I have no clue lol.

Shawn

Momentary uses whatever setting you had it on last for brightness. Two buttons isn't very tactical but it's good to cover multiple uses if you only want one light
 
The switch should be a simple, non-click, push for momentary-on only.

After having just taken a low light course, I'm not sure I would want a momentary only light. I know some of the guys were running momentary only lights but I never felt that my on/off only was any less fast when identifying targets or when shutting it down to move position. I did notice that sometimes the momentary only lights were inadvertently shut off when shooting though.

Some other things I noticed:
-120 lumens is only good for positively identifying a target out to about 40 yards. I think 200lumens is probably the sweet spot, a good balance between not dazzling yourself indoors and being able to identify targets outdoors.
- Placement of your light is critical. It quickly became apparent that the 3 o'clock position of my light was terrible. It really slowed me down. I placed it at 3 o'clock so it wouldn't interfere with my grip. Bad mistake. Switching it to 9 o'clock wasn't much better. Ideally, placement at 12 o'clock (if you have the rail space) is what you want, as it makes it much easier to shoot both sides of a barricade.
- the Fenix lights I saw on the course all worked great.
 
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It not that is faster it that you dont want the light to stay on and a lot of schools in the states are saying that 500 lumen is to new go to for rifle lights. I know Pat Rogers says that and have talked to him on a US fourm and he has convived me and I now run 500 on my rilfes and it is great.

I am also switching my x300 for a x300U for the same reasons.

Shawn
 
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