Air Arms TX200 MKIII - 177

Springer air rifles are fairly difficult to shoot accurately to begin with. Going up in power makes them more difficult to shoot accurately. Going up in caliber makes them more difficult to shoot accurately. A HC version, if you decide to go that way, instead of the MkIII of the .22, is quite a bit more difficult to c o c k.

I speak from experience as I have two, a MkIII in .177 with a Vortek 12fpe spring kit which is a like a laser beam at 30m. I can shoot dime size or smaller 5 shot groups at 35-40m for hours with JSB Exact Heavy 10.34gr pellets. It is incredibly easy to c o c k, and super accurate with those pellets.

I also have a new FAC (full power) version (about 14.4fpe) of the HC in .22. It has been a significant challenge to shoot accurately. After about 1000 pellets through it without much if any improvement, I now have a 12fpe OEM spring in it, but have yet to take it out to the bench. I will give it a good go to see if I can shoot it better. If it doesn't improve, I have a 12fpe Vortek kit which will likely end up in it anyway at some point in time. I am not expecting the same accuracy as the MkIII .177, but I would like to see it (and myself) consistently shoot dime size groups at 25-30m. I have the bests luck at FAC power with JSB Exact Jumbo Heavy 18.13gr pellets and JSB Exact Jumbo 15.89gr pellets.

One thing I forgot to mention is that increasing weight and decreasing the power results in 'loopier' trajectories. You will need to be able to manage distance to target and compensate for drop and windage.
 
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Travis at Airgun Source recommended JSB Match Diabolo pellets, I shot the 10.34 gr pellets into a group the size of bottle cap at 50 yards with them and that was a 10 shot group.
 
I find with my TX200 HC 25-30 yds isn't much of a challenge. It's easy to shoot bug hole groups with it. However I find that I have to keep adjusting the Hawke scope slightly on a regular basis during my shooting session, just a click here and there to keep my groups tight, I can tell when the scope is starting to move. I guess you cant expect much from a $200-$300 scope.
 
pete dobinson said:
I can tell when the scope is starting to move. I guess you cant expect much from a $200-$300 scope.
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No matter how expensive a scope is, if it moves on a springer it's not the scope's fault. Get good quality dovetail scope rings.

The receiver has "divots" (I don't recall if there's a better term) on the top. Many good quality rings designed for use with springers have a stop that can use one of the divots. This makes it impossible for the rings to move for use with air gun rings. Use a torque driver to make sure rings are torqued to the scope ring makers' specifications.

 
I'll bet dollars to donuts the rear ring fits in one of those holes... and when the scope is in the rings, the rings will not sift... but the scope may still be able to slip in the rings if there is not enough friction or loose screws. That's why I like to use powdered rosin in the rings... it does not slip.
 
My rear ring doesn't. Apparently there's a screw that goes into one of those divots which stop's the rings from creeping back on the dovetail, something I learned today thanks to you guys. The british website call it a Grub screw. Regardless I had to get out and shoot it at 30 yds, 10 shots, everyone was in the bull, a ragged hole, lol. They sure shoot!
 
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