Annealing - Has anyone made their own set up ?

I have done a lot of research on this and have concluded that it is not necessary and just adds more work because now you have to dry them. I just drop them onto a damp folded old towel. I find what is critical is to apply the right amount of heat for the right amount of time.

Either keep brass dry right through the process, or maybe consider initial dry tumble, then decap, inspect, anneal, quench, wet-tumble, then only have to dry it once and have it real pretty and ready to reload. Leaning to the dry side myself.
 
I only dry mine after the initial cleaning in an ultrasonic cleaner. The next step after drying is annealing, after which they get tipped into an old aluminum pan to cool. Then sizing and trim to length.
I've had no problems with this routine over the past several years.
 
The reason that the cases are quenched are to keep the heat from migrating towards the base and softening it, is it not ?

How important is this step ? I am interested in hearing opinions on this.


I assume the salt bath or induction anneal s the whole case where the torch does only the neck area and a small bit of the case .

I've had pretty good luck with consistent accurate reloads and brass life
One trick on the torch method for me is at a point when my eye judges the case done it " flares" out of the case neck for just a flash
 
I should have mentioned that I use a torch to anneal with, the brass is held in an aluminum sleeve that is in turn chucked in a cordless drill. Only the neck and shoulder is exposed to the flame.

I believe (no personal experience with either method) that both the salt bath and the induction annealer only apply heat to the neck and maybe the shoulder of the case.

I've always been led to believe that if the entire case gets softened by any method, you're asking for trouble, as in case failure upon firing.
 
This thread makes me feel even better about owning an AMP.

I didn't know about the Amp unit until after I'd decided to try building my own. I didn't like the idea of using a torch and drill, because consistency would be tough. Induction heating is such an easy thing to control time with too, and it should be very repeatable. The Amp looks like a really cool machine, but it sure is expensive
Kristian
 
Mine ain't prettty, but its consistent and I can program the timer to the millisecond

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This thread makes me feel even better about owning an AMP.

Yes... you've made that abundantly clear in this thread.

The thread's title "Annealing - Has anyone made their own set up?" would suggest the thread is open to people sharing DIY ideas and want nothing to do with owning an AMP.
 
The reason that the cases are quenched are to keep the heat from migrating towards the base and softening it, is it not ?

How important is this step ? I am interested in hearing opinions on this.

When removed from heat, the heat migration down the case loses steam very quickly. I use temp stiks, and you can not get the crayon to melt any farther down the case no matter how long you wait. Tempilaq would be even easier to see the color change. It kind of reminds me of soldering a small 16 gauge wire, remove the heat and it sets right up. I remember looking at videos of people annealing in a pan of water and tipping over, however the dwell time of the heat, the lack of consistency by not turning the brass, it probably needed to be in water as the process is too slow. I set my dual torch up to get the 4.5-5 second dwell time. It the torch is cranked to hot ( say 3 second dwell time ) the case neck and shoulder does not get even heat and you can see it in the heat marks on the brass, plus if you are not using top quality brass or neck turned brass, your chances of overheating a piece is higher with a really hot 3 second torch.
 
Yes... you've made that abundantly clear in this thread.

The thread's title "Annealing - Has anyone made their own set up?" would suggest the thread is open to people sharing DIY ideas and want nothing to do with owning an AMP.

Umm, no. This thread deviated from that long before I posted. The problem here is that no one wants to listen to reason. If you are going to DIY, DIY for cheap. And use a flame.
 
Umm, no. This thread deviated from that long before I posted. The problem here is that no one wants to listen to reason. If you are going to DIY, DIY for cheap. And use a flame.

And it's useful for those of us who don't have an annealing setup yet, to see what goes into one and where the tipping-point between commercial and DIY options might sit. As with many things, dollars versus hours. Also, DIY designing involves understanding and explaining how these things work while a turnkey solution can remain black magic to the user.
 
Umm, no. This thread deviated from that long before I posted. The problem here is that no one wants to listen to reason. If you are going to DIY, DIY for cheap. And use a flame.

If you have a look on other gun forums, quite a few people are building diy induction annealers, and having a lot of success with them. Some guys have automated them with case feeders and such, and I would feel a lot better about leaving something like that unattended than a torch type one. There's more than one way to skin a cat.
Kristian
 
What are great results?

I DIY’ed annealing for years. No one asked me to anneal their brass. I bought an AMP and now I have friends I didn’t even want. Hmmm.
 
What are great results?

I DIY’ed annealing for years. No one asked me to anneal their brass. I bought an AMP and now I have friends I didn’t even want. Hmmm.

and that's why they call it Annealing Made Perfect (AMP)...love mine too...:)
 
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