Antique Belgian revolver question.
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BrotherRockeye
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Rural Saskatchewan
LOL Something you will never hear a Modern revolver owner say in Canada
I know...ain't it a shame
rgbai-that .320 is a cute little bugger!
the photos posted by rgbai are the same mechanism as on my two guns and the hammer - trigger assembly is different from the one that I would anticipate on Rockeye's gun. I will try to post a photo of my hammer with the trigger tomorrow; since you seem to still have your trigger, its shape will tell you which design you have
cheers mooncoon
cheers mooncoon
the top photo is the french copy on top and the one with "patina" is the belgian copy. The top of the hammer to the bottom measured with the caliper jaws parallel to the top of the hammer and the top of the spur is 1.910 inches. Width measured with the jaw parallel to the front of the hammer in the pivot area and the face (not the pin) of the hammer head is 1.065 inches.
What to look for on your gun is the shape of the trigger, particularly the upper tip which engages the hammer and also will have a small hole with the hand pivoting on the trigger.
In the photos you will also see the hand and below the hammer and behind the trigger is a small hooked piece which is a sort of safety that prevents the hammer falling completely unless the trigger is pulled.
I would very strongly suggest making a single action hammer rather than the double action one. This hammer has a single action sear on the projection below the pivoting portion of the front of the hammer
cheers mooncoon
What to look for on your gun is the shape of the trigger, particularly the upper tip which engages the hammer and also will have a small hole with the hand pivoting on the trigger.
In the photos you will also see the hand and below the hammer and behind the trigger is a small hooked piece which is a sort of safety that prevents the hammer falling completely unless the trigger is pulled.
I would very strongly suggest making a single action hammer rather than the double action one. This hammer has a single action sear on the projection below the pivoting portion of the front of the hammer
cheers mooncoon
BrotherRockeye
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Rural Saskatchewan
I'm not moncoon,but yes
As mooncoon suggested, making a single action hammer would be easier. The double action pawl could be omitted. The slot for the mainspring stirrup could be cut with a dremel disc.
To simplify manufacture even more, the hammer could be made from flat plate, and, if desired, the thumb spur could be made wider by silver brazing on a separate piece.
I would suggest making a thin sheet metal - or even cardboard - template for the hammer, working on the outside of the frame. Assemble the surviving parts externally, and it will be easier to determine the shape of the hammer. The actual hammer could have much of the shaping and fitting done with an external mockup. The mainspring stirrup should be made from tool steel, hardened and tempered. The hammer can be made from mild steel, and case hardened.
To simplify manufacture even more, the hammer could be made from flat plate, and, if desired, the thumb spur could be made wider by silver brazing on a separate piece.
I would suggest making a thin sheet metal - or even cardboard - template for the hammer, working on the outside of the frame. Assemble the surviving parts externally, and it will be easier to determine the shape of the hammer. The actual hammer could have much of the shaping and fitting done with an external mockup. The mainspring stirrup should be made from tool steel, hardened and tempered. The hammer can be made from mild steel, and case hardened.
Why does'nt Mooncoon just make a photocopie of his hammer and send it to tula .
Then he just has to cut the shape out stick (glue) it to some steel of his choice 304 stainless would work , and cut it out . You'll get a 1"to1" scale copie from your photocopier . Voila ! an exact replica . And also mooncoon could also send tula a copie of his triger to check for scale against the triger tula already has and if the two trigers match size wize odds are the two hammer will to .and if they don't exactly it will make it easyer to fine tune .that's how i'd do it .take the guessing out of it . And also put the caliper to that hammer mooncoon has and get a thickness reference and since i'm from Toronto i don't want to talk out of my ass and make anybody think i'm an expert but i think this should work .
Then he just has to cut the shape out stick (glue) it to some steel of his choice 304 stainless would work , and cut it out . You'll get a 1"to1" scale copie from your photocopier . Voila ! an exact replica . And also mooncoon could also send tula a copie of his triger to check for scale against the triger tula already has and if the two trigers match size wize odds are the two hammer will to .and if they don't exactly it will make it easyer to fine tune .that's how i'd do it .take the guessing out of it . And also put the caliper to that hammer mooncoon has and get a thickness reference and since i'm from Toronto i don't want to talk out of my ass and make anybody think i'm an expert but i think this should work .
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good I have all that ....and I have a few old mainspring stirrup's kicking around here some wheres...I dont have the right mainspring though....found a few old ones out of a hopkins&allans and one out of a harrington&richardson and they are the kind that arent cut for and dont have the hand for the stirrup.
I am going to start with fitting and shaping; if you look closely at the second photo you will notice a pencil line of a pistol but on the wood and a slot milled into the wood. The slot is for the fence on the frame of the gun. I lay the frame on the wood and traced around it followed by using a close fitting punch through the pin holes to transfer the pivot points from the wood. I then drilled holes in the wood for pivots. In my case I am making the trigger and that allowed me to rough fit the trigger to the existing hammer. Working simply from a template would be vastly more difficult.
Second point is that unless you have had a lot of experience at filing out complex parts, I would be extremely hesitant to make the double action hammer. Its action is quite simple by double action standards but proportions or dimensions of the single action sear notch and the length of the pivoting arm are very fussy and single action would both save a lot of frustration as well as be totally suitable for target shooting.
I make at least 5 or 6 mainsprings a year, and would suggest that you forge one out of drill rod. I am sure I must have posted at least once perhaps more on making springs
I will try to copy the hammer later today and email it to you although an expanding and shrinking type xerox machine will work off the image I posted as well as using a graphics program to make the image bigger or smaller. Try saving the image and then decreasing the number of pixels.
cheers mooncoon
Second point is that unless you have had a lot of experience at filing out complex parts, I would be extremely hesitant to make the double action hammer. Its action is quite simple by double action standards but proportions or dimensions of the single action sear notch and the length of the pivoting arm are very fussy and single action would both save a lot of frustration as well as be totally suitable for target shooting.
I make at least 5 or 6 mainsprings a year, and would suggest that you forge one out of drill rod. I am sure I must have posted at least once perhaps more on making springs
I will try to copy the hammer later today and email it to you although an expanding and shrinking type xerox machine will work off the image I posted as well as using a graphics program to make the image bigger or smaller. Try saving the image and then decreasing the number of pixels.
cheers mooncoon
I used to make my own bits and pieces for percusion and flint locks .... sears bridel stirrups ect. ..... biggest pain in the a$$ I've worked on was my own sear for an SKS but it worked in the end, I'd like to try my hand now on the hammer maybe I'll try the single action first and when I get that tuned right try making the dbl action one....or say the heck with it and have a go at the dbl action right off the bat.
Or you could make it single action, but leave enough material to fit the DA pawl once you have the SA working.
I should get going on one of mine. It is a large .450 revolver with a Pryse type lock. Mooncoon has seen the photos. The SA tip of the hammer is broken off, works fine DA. But it is DA only.
I should get going on one of mine. It is a large .450 revolver with a Pryse type lock. Mooncoon has seen the photos. The SA tip of the hammer is broken off, works fine DA. But it is DA only.
if you email him the photocopy include a ruler on the page for scale .it will not print to scale but if you just copy it and snaill maill it to him it will be perfect ,no guessing.i did a few test trying to copy scan and email and noting came out to scale.but just a simple photocopy came out to perfect scale.
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