Any Mauser Oberndorf Experts Here? NEW PICTURES ADDED!
- Thread starter bryan.14
- Start date
hollowedpoint
CGN Regular
Yup definitelya legit Mauser as by the double trigger is shaped correctly for them, and by the the pear shaped bolt handle.
I also have a M98 but in .318 dammit! And I don't reload for it yet, so I never got to use it! And got it 2 years ago.
lol
I also have a M98 but in .318 dammit! And I don't reload for it yet, so I never got to use it! And got it 2 years ago.
lol
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BigUglyMan
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- New Scotland
I like it!
The checkering has been recut at some point in it's life. The buttstock is showing some promising figure under 100 years of accumulated grime. There's a little strip of wood split off at the rear receiver bridge just in front of the bolt handle. Something looks amiss about the front guard screw as well; it shouldn't be recessed like that.
Very nice old rifle that's seen some honest use. Grab some ammo and take'er hunting.
Very nice old rifle that's seen some honest use. Grab some ammo and take'er hunting.
After July 7th 1896,
Barrels made after July, 7 1896 = ((0.15mm)+(7.9mm)+(0.15mm)) = 8.2mm = 0.3228346” or ~ 0.323”
MARKINGS, on 1888 rifles
= 2mm diameter dot = Modified barrel contours, post 1891.
Z = 3mm high = Deepened rifling groves, post 1896. A large 7mm “Z” may also be stamped on the right side of the butt.
S = 3mm high = Rifles suitable altered for S-Munition. 1903-5. An additional 7mm crowned “S” may be found on the right side of the butt.
n = 2mm high = Signifies an 88/14 conversion, 1914-15.
The preceding information was from “German Military Rifles and Machine Pistols 1871 – 1945”,
By Hans Dieter Gotz. Translated by Dr. Edward Force, CCSU. Includes information on assault rifles and Sten copies.
As I understand it, the adoption of "s" munitions required an opening of the chamber throat for the larger bullet.
Barrels made after July, 7 1896 = ((0.15mm)+(7.9mm)+(0.15mm)) = 8.2mm = 0.3228346” or ~ 0.323”
MARKINGS, on 1888 rifles
= 2mm diameter dot = Modified barrel contours, post 1891.
Z = 3mm high = Deepened rifling groves, post 1896. A large 7mm “Z” may also be stamped on the right side of the butt.
S = 3mm high = Rifles suitable altered for S-Munition. 1903-5. An additional 7mm crowned “S” may be found on the right side of the butt.
n = 2mm high = Signifies an 88/14 conversion, 1914-15.
The preceding information was from “German Military Rifles and Machine Pistols 1871 – 1945”,
By Hans Dieter Gotz. Translated by Dr. Edward Force, CCSU. Includes information on assault rifles and Sten copies.
As I understand it, the adoption of "s" munitions required an opening of the chamber throat for the larger bullet.
So this one is an 8x57 JS .323 diameter bore then??
n means nitro
The Mauser 8×57mm JS or JSR (8.2mm or 0.323-inch) cartridge cannot safely be fired out of a rifle designed for 8×57mm I (8.1mm or 0.318-inch). The increased pressure from the larger cartridge may cause a catastrophic failure
have it slugged
its nice don't mess with it
The Mauser 8×57mm JS or JSR (8.2mm or 0.323-inch) cartridge cannot safely be fired out of a rifle designed for 8×57mm I (8.1mm or 0.318-inch). The increased pressure from the larger cartridge may cause a catastrophic failure
have it slugged
its nice don't mess with it
At the range I put some old Turkish 8x57mm JS (.323) rounds in the rifle and cycled the action with ease.
However I was worried it may still be a .318 bore didn't fire any of the Turkish rounds.
Does chambering and cycling .323 rounds confirm the diameter is .323?? Or do I still need to slug it?
I don't have a local gunsmith so I will have to learn how to slug the barrel myself if chambering .323 rounds doesn't confirm the bore diameter.
However I was worried it may still be a .318 bore didn't fire any of the Turkish rounds.
Does chambering and cycling .323 rounds confirm the diameter is .323?? Or do I still need to slug it?
I don't have a local gunsmith so I will have to learn how to slug the barrel myself if chambering .323 rounds doesn't confirm the bore diameter.
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Pound a 32 cal round ball through it and measure the slug.
The post war 318s had very long throats so as to accommodate the pressure of a 323 bullet. If the throat is unusually long, it is probably a 318.
For cheap plinking, I used 32Spl bullets.
The post war 318s had very long throats so as to accommodate the pressure of a 323 bullet. If the throat is unusually long, it is probably a 318.
For cheap plinking, I used 32Spl bullets.
- Location
- Somewhere on the Hudson Bay Coast
Isn't it interesting that they didn't put a cross grain block behind the tang as they did with their military stocks, perhaps it was thought to detract from the beauty of the wood, but a crack behind the tang detracts more so.
My two criticisms are: 1) its not a 7X57 or 9.3X62 and 2) its not mine.
Bryan, if you want to shoot it get yourself some commercial North American ammo like Remington or Winchester. If you look at the ballistics of that ammo you'll see it is very conservatively loaded. Not much more than a .32 winchester, IIRC. That was because in NA shooters were not familiar with the different bore sizes and ammo companies loaded the 8x57 so even if it was shot in the .318 bore the pressures wouldn't be high enough to blow the action. European shooters were familiar with different bore sizes and knew the difference so 8x57 ammo is loaded much hotter there. That's not a recommendation to shoot the ammo all the time through a .318 bore, but it is a much better idea than shooting military surplus. That can be loaded hot, and was intended for known .323 bores.
