Anybody out there reload for 9mm & .45

I've had success using IMR '700X' and Hurcules/Aliant 'Bullseye' for both 9mm and .45ACP.

I second the "buying in bulk" if you can, especially if you are going to use one powder for both ctgs.

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NAA.
 
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I reload for both :)

Right now I use 124 and 147gr plated bullets for 9mm and 200 gr-ers for .45acp.

just remembered that I'm pretty much out primers! :eek: but I use Power Pilstol powder for both have 3.5lbs left and a pound or two of N350 :)
 
I load for both too, I have a Lee 1000 in 45 and use a turret, of the two I MUCH prefer the Turret. In fact if I was doing it again, I'd get the new 4 station turret and skip the progressive, for the same reasons as Medicstimpy - the 4 station turret can do full size rifle work. I use W231 for both, it's fairly dirty but meters well and is consistent lot to lot. In 9mm I use 124 grain cast, and in 45 I use 200 grain SWC. Most 45's will feed the H&G 68 type SWC with some minor adjustments to OAL to suit the gun (they are cheaper than 230's) and a decent load will be 100% for function, as some 45's don't like lighter bullets.
 
I was reloading 9mm and 45 for some time now. "Universal" works fairly well for both cartridges, although I am switching to "Unique" for reloading 45ACP. Bullet Barn makes decent inexpensive cast bullets, sized and lubed and their alloy is strong enough not to worry about barrel fouling or loss of accuracy.
 
I like Win 231 as well as any powder. I use 5gr Win 231 with 115gr FMJ 9mm and 230gr FMJ 45acp loads. If you want a great load for 45acps try 6.1gr Win 231 (max load) with a 200gr LSWC 45acp. Regards, Richard:)
 
If you don't want to go progressive ( Dillon 550B the only way to go!), the Lee turret should suffice for the volumes you're talking about.
I would STRONGLY suggest that you have an experienced friend give you a hand to get you set up and running.
Do lots of reading, and have them 'hold your hand' for the first little while.
Reloading is fun....but can also be dangerous, with risk lurking for the inexperienced.

I am not inexperienced in reloading as such, I used to shoot trap and have reloaded thousands of 12ga shells. I am new to centerfire rifle and pistol ammo, however. I will definitely do my research and ask questions along the way, the consequences of a screw up can be far too serious to take it lightly.

Is there anything in particular about the set up of the Lee that is tricky? I have a buddy who is an experienced reloader, but he uses a Rockchucker and only does rifle rounds, so the turret will be new to him as well.

Thanks,
Mark
 
i use 231 for 200 gr and 230gr RN in .45ACP . if you only use small primer .45 ( A PITA to find used though) you wn't have to change primer arms. I tried 185 lead concave crayola point in .45 aCP but had many feeding issues. plus i needed a light spring in my 1911s.

I plan on trying 231 in 9mm once I get my press set up. It seems to work well with 124 grainers but since I shoot mainly 147s I may need to go to a bit slower powder.
 
I load for both too, I have a Lee 1000 in 45 and use a turret, of the two I MUCH prefer the Turret. In fact if I was doing it again, I'd get the new 4 station turret and skip the progressive, for the same reasons as Medicstimpy - the 4 station turret can do full size rifle work.

Is that the Lee Classic Turret press? I see it is only slightly more than the classic cast press, that would be ideal for my needs for only $20 more. Can't argue with that. What kind of output do you get with the turret press?

Mark
 
I have the Lee Classic turret press, a decent piece of kit for the price. I use titegroup 4.4gr for both 124gr 9mm and 200gr lead SWC for .45acp
 
Wow lots of info to sift through... Thanks for all of the info.

Are there any powders to avoid? notenough, you metioned that you were phasing out a "dirty powder" If at all possible I would like to shoot relatively clean, I have already learned the advantages of going with "winclean" ammo, so I would like to avoid any really unnessisarily "dirty" powders.

Sandroad, you mentioned "plated" ammo... whats the difference between that and "jacketed" ammo... I know what "FMJ" is and I have always understood that plated and jacketed copper ammo was the same thing.

Thanks
 
I like Win 231 as well as any powder..... If you want a great load for 45acps try 6.1gr Win 231 (max load) with a 200gr LSWC 45acp. Regards, Richard:)

I'm using 231 for my .45's too (SA 1911AI and a S&W 625). I normally load 5.4gr. with 200 gr. lead and 5.6 gr with the Frontier CMJs. That max. load sounds like it might be close to a +P. I must try (work up to) that in the 625. I've got some 200gr RNFP coming from Bullet Barn.

:) Stuart
 
Notsorichguy, I'm not sure about how clean titegroup is as I've never used it but I'm sure others can let you know. Winchester 231 seems clean enough especially compared to Unique.

As for plated vs jacketed it can best be summed up in jacketed bullets have a better tolerence and dimension and are usually stronger since the jacket is thicker. Plated bullets do not have a casing as thick as a jacketed bullet but are easier to mfg and therefore cost less. Relliot explains the difference much better than myself.

If you are just starting out you may want to just purchase 1lb of powder to make sure your guns like it first and then purchase the 8lb cans later. 1lb will still load over 1000 rounds if your charges are under 7grs.
 
Sandroad, you mentioned "plated" ammo... whats the difference between that and "jacketed" ammo... I know what "FMJ" is and I have always understood that plated and jacketed copper ammo was the same thing.

Thanks

FMJ is a 2 piece bullet that is made by swagging a slug of lead into a copper cup/jacket. A FMJ bullet will either have exposed lead where the jacket doesn't close completely the tip or at the base of the bullet.

A plated bullet is made by copper plating a cast or swagged lead bullet. The copper plating is much thinner than a jacketed bullet but because it is applied by electrochemical "plating" (think of chrome/nickel/silver/gold plating) it is much thinner. The plating is still a fairly substantial thickness and not just "colouring" but not as thick as a copper jacket.

The AIM projectiles are copper plated and of very good quality because they are "double struck". That means they are struck in a die AGAIN, AFTER they are plated to make sure they are uniform. Frontier bullets are also copper plated and of good quality.

Not all plated bullets are double struck and sometimes it is those bullets where the quality control can be poor. (an example of poor quality plated bullets was Excel Bullets, who are now out of business)

As for powders, generally a faster burning power for the type of load you want (bullet weight/velocity) will be cleaner than a slower burning powder. Powders need to get to a reasonably high working pressure to burn cleanly.

45ACP is a low pressure cartridge and will benefit from a fast burning powder especially when using light loads. This is where a slower burning powder like W231 can become dirtier. If you want a really clean powder for 45ACP, try Clays. Clays is not the same as Universal (clays). But Clays is not a good powder choice for 9mm as it is a bit on the fast side. 9mm has a much higher operating pressure and will burn a moderate load of W231 reasonably cleanly. Titegroup is slower than Clays but faster than W231, and is a good compromise to use in both cartridges.

700X and Bullseye were also mentioned, they are fast powders around the speed of Clays, and burn relatively cleanly.

One thing that may have not been mentioned is that cast bullets are always "smoky" because of the lube burning off them. Plated bullets give you the clean burning advantage of jacketed but at a price close to cast lead.
 
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