Applying Tru-oil over the current finish ??

I don't know what Remington uses on their stocks but if it's anything like Boyd's then it's some kind of nasty polyurethane. It has required multiple applications of stripper to get it all off.

Maybe the buttstock gets a second coat? I have always used Circa 1850 stripper and Polystrip but don't see the Polystrip in stores now. I guess what I'm trying to say is IMHO, you need a good quality stripper to get down to the wood. I don't find it smells bad just put down some newspaper. Some say not to use steel wool on stocks but I have always used it to wipe off stripper with no ill effects.
The 1500 grit is probably overkill even as a final grit choice.(I admit I have used it but not sure if I was wasting my time). If it was me I would put the recoil pad on for sanding and use a sanding block to avoid sanding off the sharp edge where pad meets stock. The sharp edges and high points are easy to phuck up when sanding and you can't put the wood back! Sharp edges (like on the edge of a comb can be masked off and then sanded last after surrounding area is to your liking)
If the stock is as unblemished as that looks to be you could probably start with 320 then 400/600/1000.
Personally, I would not apply any finish coat till your colours are closer. Try restripping stock again.
If that doesn't get colour closer it's time to get out the stain! Mixing stains can also return some neat results.

In the end although I like the look of the new Remlington laminates, it's a good piece to learn on.
 
Dgrant1988 said:
I just picked up some minwax polyurethane gloss from Rona. Looked up some threads on that and think it looks good too. Some people say it will turn yellow tinted with time though.
Click to expand...
I have never used Minwax polyurethane and haven't opened up the Tru oil yet. I used to use oil finish only. I have had good results with polymerized tung oil. It leaves surface really smooth but still grippy when wet.
Bought my tru oil about a year ago but I still keep reaching for the tung oil! I'm somewhat habitual.
 
Yeah I'm thinking I didn't let it soak long enough so I lathered up the butt stock with the stripper again and am going to give it a couple more hours to see if I can get some of that color out. I've decided I like the lighter color of the fore end so I'd like to make the stock match that if I can. There is a tiny chip in one spot on the butt and I see the wood underneath is lighter so I'm hoping I just need to get down a little deeper. Also I meant to say I was using the 600 sandpaper but I might pick up something heavier depending on how this second strip goes.
 
FPSAirgun said:
I got started on this today.
Supplies total cost about 70$, the gel was the costliest item at about 30$ the tru oil was about 15$. There were cheaper options than the gel but I decided it would be easiest to work with indoors.

You're supposed to apply the gel and let it soak for " enough time" The fore stock lost its color almost immediately, but the butt stock never lost its color despite the fact I let it soak in the gel longer ( about two hours then I buffed it off with a coarse sponge)

I sanded it all a bit with the (*edit) *600sandpaper, it doesn't seem to do much but I might work with it a bit more. The two parts are different color now and it looks pretty stupid, I put some coffee on the fore stock with a rag to try and even it out - but it didn't do do much and I'm afraid to keep soaking it in because the wood might crack. I'm debating if I need to go get some stain for the fore stock, also I'm wondering if I've removed enough of the old finish on both or do I need to sand more or even go back to the solvent..

Any thoughts? If I didn't care about the colour difference does the wood look ready enough to apply the tru oil?
Click to expand...

I'd keep using stripper to get the butt looking the same as the fore stock.

Maybe a stronger stripper?

Looks like you'll need to stain the wood to get a nice even colour again before applying the Tru-Oil.

The Tru-Oil darkens the wood slightly (making it look the same shade as when the wood is wet with water), so you may want to stain the wood first.
 
After a couple more hours in the stripper it's starting to look a little better

5041fm.jpg



I've got it back in the solvent again this morning for a third treatment
 
I refinished my first gun late last year. It is a 1938 Belgian Guild gun.

The steps I took: 1) Stripped with Circa 1850 2) Cleaned with acetone 3) Degreased 4) removed dents with an iron/steam 5) cleaned with acetone 6) sanded up 1500 grit 7) Filled the pores with a 25/75 and then 50/50 mix of Tru-oil & mineral spirits 8) Stained with Behlen Blood Red stain 9) Taped off the checkered areas 10) Applied 20 coats of Tru-oil wet sanding after each coat using 2,000 up to 12,000 grit 11) Sharpened the checkering and applied 2 thin coats of Tru-oil to the checkered areas 12) Applied Renaissance wax and buffed

[URL=http://s446.photobucket.com/user/victoryxc/media/Belgian/20151128_144421_zpsfqfntkqs.jpg.html][/URL]

[URL=http://s446.photobucket.com/user/victoryxc/media/Belgian/20150222_164952_zpsbqqzvlk8.jpg.html][/URL]
 
After 4 applications of the stripper for two hours at a time, the butt stock was still a bit darker than the fore end. I noticed on the last round that no more brown was coming out so I don't think continuing with the stripper is going to do anything. I ran out and got some oil based stain and put a layer on just the fore end - colours are pretty close now, I'm going to let it dry and then maybe add a layer of stain to both.

The wood on both is very smooth to the touch from sanding, now that I've applied oil stain do I need to do anything other than dry it and clean it before I start the tru oil? Will a round of sanding or steel wool help the tru oil fix properly or do you think I am I good to go as is?

fb96s3.jpg
 
No gunpowder, I put a layer of oil stain on the buttstock too - it's looking pretty good. Just waiting for that to dry now to confirm the tones are even.

Do I need to sand or steel wool again before I start the tru oil? Will the tru oil bond to the oil stain ok?

2mcho8y.jpg
 
The stain should have sunk in, so it's good to go....... A light rubbing with "0000" steel wool does the trick.... Make sure you leave a lot of drying time between coats.... Looking good!
 
I would use 0000 steel (or bronze) wool prior to applying the Tru-Oil. Do the same between Tru-Oil coats. Tru-Oil is pretty glossy; if you prefer a more satin finish, buff the final coat as well with the steel wool.
 
K thanks, I won't rush the tru oil coats. The package says to leave it to set for anywhere from two to 24 hours so I'll have to wait and see.

Thanks
 
After about 1.5 hours of stain in the stock I wiped it off with a rag - wasn't happy now the stock is lighter than the fore end, the fore end took the stain much better than the butt. I put on a second coat and am letting dry for longer.

2ebweq0.jpg
 
Just keep doing light coats on the buttstock until the two colours match, then worry about the tru oil finish.

I keep a lot of different stains around, generally if I want something really dark I go almost black (ebony) and wipe off almost immediately, and repeat until It's where I want it. If it's too black I touch with a brown stain, etc until the colour is right, then lock it all in with the finish, whatever that is (tru oil in this case). Just don't get impatient :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom