Applying Tru-oil over the current finish ??

Superbrad said:
Great idea with the fan..... Just curious, how did you ge the forend off?
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A cylinder runs through the forfend to a fixing nut that requires either a special wrench or a huge flat head screwdriver to turn. I looked around for something plastic around that width (a plastic hair comb to be precise) and trimmed it down with cutters to fit the slot. The whole takedown was pretty easy I had it done in five minutes by referencing youtube videos.

Gave the forfend another light dose of stain, the more stain I give the more things look to even out.

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If you can find a cheap 15/16" socket you can zippy wheel about 1/4" off the end, leaving a couple tabs intact 180 degrees apart. Kinda overkill for assembly but can really help with disassembly considering limits to applying heat.
Will work on Mossberg and Remington forend tube nuts.
 
FPSAirgun said:
I got started on this today.



Before.

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Supplies total cost about 70$, the gel was the costliest item at about 30$ the tru oil was about 15$. There were cheaper options than the gel but I decided it would be easiest to work with indoors.

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You're supposed to apply the gel and let it soak for " enough time" The fore stock lost its color almost immediately, but the butt stock never lost its color despite the fact I let it soak in the gel longer ( about two hours then I buffed it off with a coarse sponge)

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I sanded it all a bit with the (*edit) *600sandpaper, it doesn't seem to do much but I might work with it a bit more. The two parts are different color now and it looks pretty stupid, I put some coffee on the fore stock with a rag to try and even it out - but it didn't do do much and I'm afraid to keep soaking it in because the wood might crack. I'm debating if I need to go get some stain for the fore stock, also I'm wondering if I've removed enough of the old finish on both or do I need to sand more or even go back to the solvent..

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Any thoughts? If I didn't care about the colour difference does the wood look ready enough to apply the tru oil?
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You can try a bleach water mixture I use it sometimes when I refurb norinco wood. Before you try that try soaking the stock in Varsol or mineral spirits for a few days. Get a long plastic flower planter or something like that and let it soak. I'd give it a little sanding to open the pores first. U can put a long socket drive or something like that so it doesn't float. The hot water method seems to work the best and raises the grain so that oiling is consistant.

I've also had lots of luck using hot water and dish soap/simple green with oily/stained Milsurp stocks. I just let it dry gradually at room temp. I've tried tru oil but found it dried too quick and was too shiny. I ended up using tung oil, teak oil and lindseed oil. Each have there own benefits.
 
That's beginning to look good!


FPSAirgun said:
A cylinder runs through the forfend to a fixing nut that requires either a special wrench or a huge flat head screwdriver to turn. I looked around for something plastic around that width (a plastic hair comb to be precise) and trimmed it down with cutters to fit the slot. The whole takedown was pretty easy I had it done in five minutes by referencing youtube videos.

Gave the forfend another light dose of stain, the more stain I give the more things look to even out.

2qdcvo7.jpg
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Here's the picture after four coats of tru oil with light rubbing of steel wool in between. It looks OK but after the third coat I noticed a spot on the butt stock where the oil had "ran" and made a ridge/wave. I think I applied too much oil on the third application. I tried to buff it down with the wool and it helped a bit, but after the fourth coat I can still see it. I tried to show it in the picture but it doesn't show very well.

Anything I can do about it or just hope it becomes less noticeable with more coats.? If I was going to wet sand it after 6 coats like someone suggested would I be wetting it with the tru oil and sanding with the 1500 sandpaper?

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I am going with a dark walnut stain first off. (American Walnut)

Then repetitive coats of Miniwax Tung Oil. First two coats diluted with mineral spirits. Then a going over treatment with 0000 steel wool. Followed with more undiluted Tung Oil.

Several coats with long drying cycles in between applications, and the same steel wool.
 
Brutus said:
I am going with a dark walnut stain first off. (American Walnut)

Then repetitive coats of Miniwax Tung Oil. First two coats diluted with mineral spirits. Then a going over treatment with 0000 steel wool. Followed with more undiluted Tung Oil.

Several coats with long drying cycles in between applications, and the same steel wool.
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Start your own thread about it MAN - just kidding, good luck! What gun? Show pics!


Also, Someone please tell me about wet sanding though because I made a mistake in my stock and wondering if I need to correct it now before future coats. I promise I don't have many more questions :) ( seriously like 8 to ten, max)
 
Well the problem is due in part to the fact that I saw the run while it was still wet, and tried to resolve it with a cloth making it worse. It will look better with more coats I'm just trying to figure out how to minimize the damage before I seal it up. I might try a very light diluted alcohol on a cloth to clean it in conjunction with the steel wool.

But what about wet sanding? Would I sand with tru oil or the alcohol or something else? The whole coat looks too bumpy I feel like I need to fix it now or adding more layers will just seal in the problem.

Am I wrong?
 
I gave the whole butt stock a very rough go with the steel wool, really digging in to the places I'd made mistakes or just didn't like. I really made a point to dig in with the steel wool to get down to the things I didn't like. It's a hard thing to put into words but I think I did the right thing. Anywhere that was shiny I knocked it down hard with the steel wool.

Now a very thin coat of tru oil.

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Yeah I've been applying it with gloves but it's so tacky that the rubber does not do a good job of it,I notice a raw finger makes it much easier. I'll make the necessary adjustments to my applications
 
I apply thick for several coats, and don't worry that much about runs. Then I wet sand to 800 and switch to application with a piece of old T-shirt. It won't run after than. Apply a bunch more coats, then lightly wet sand to 2000.
 
I find tru-oil almost like a varnish. It may gum up if you try sanding with more tru-oil. Maybe try sanding down the run with a small piece of fine grit sandpaper on a wood block backing. Make sure you get rid of all the dust and try another coat
 
...and tru-oil will definitely seal in any mistakes, not cover them up.

Also remember to apply tru-oil to all the end and interior surfaces (don't leave bare wood) to protect the wood from moisture.
 
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