AR gassing

i ordered the Spikes ST-T2 HVBUF buffers (1 for each rifle)... now i need 2 adjustable gas blocks that are good but reasonably priced.
i read AGW is working on thiers right now (also waiting on a 308 muzzle break from them) i like dealing with canadian companies. they are usually more honest and better prices that usa.
 
Is the barrel dimpled (drilled) under the set screws?

I believe so..ill be able to answer that In about a week. I bought it used and one screw is stripped, I just sent it out to my gun smith to have it drilled out and re-tapped if possible, but I'm most likely replacing the block anyway...I wasn't able to take the gas block off in the condition the screw was in.

When the barrel comes back my rem 700 aac-sd is going in for some tweaking :)
 
Before you start messing around with buffers go back to the most fundamental aspect of the gas system . Measure the gas port diameter

For 10.5 barrels I have measured typically are ( Noveske barrels, White Oak , Centurion ) .079" ( a #47 drill size ) to .082" ( # 45 drill )

I have seen on ocassion larger , most notable on a Colt 10.5 that was over .090.

Your gas port on a factory 10.5" should not be larger than .090

On the other extreme, the LMT 10.5s have relatively small ( .070 " ) . According to LMT , this is GTG so long as you are running NATO pressure 5.56 . My LMT would short stroke with SAAMI 223 .

Bottom line is you should not need an adjustable gas block.

You should find out what the gas port diameter is. To do so , the easiest is to use a number drill set ( the manufacturers drill the gas port hole with a # drill so it makes sense you can take a good ballpark with the drill set ) No need to get fancy with a pin gauge set

My lowers have a huge variation in buffer weight ( from Standard carbine ( 2.9oz ) to 9mm ( 5.5 oz ) ) and all my 10.5" builds will cycle fine
 
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