AR lubrificant

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Not according to me, according to many others. There is no need to lubricate the spring. Even with a lubricated BCG the spring does not get lubricated. If you're lubricating the entire BCG you're wrong. There are four rails which the BCG rides and that is all that needs lube, aside from the bolt itself. As for rusting. Its called maintenance, try it. The spring is subjected to very little if any moisture. Buffer springs are a wearing part and should be replaced regularly.

TDC

LMT puts some sort of dry film lube back in that area, looks teflon based as its softer than graphite.
 
When you guys are using grease, how easy to you find cleaning the excess fouling off the bolt and carrier to be? I've never used grease (only CLP) and I always thought getting all that extra fouling off with grease would be a major PITA.

I use TW25 for just this reason, it makes it very easy to clean off the carbon build up and I seem to get alittle less build up as well. I have CLP but use Mobil 5w30 to clean with, seems to do a better job. I use the grease after its clean. CLP just seems to be a decent (at least the older stuff) cleaner but lube is pretty crap.
 
I use and prefer the aeroshell moly grease for the LAV 25mm cannon, slick and doesn't blow off after extended firing like CLP will. If its not available I have no problem using LOTS of CLP (I practically soak the bolt in CLP and just wipe off the bolt face). The useless part is a lot of it will drip out of the weapon and attract dirt and sand to the outside of the weapon which is my main beef with CLP.

I apply the grease as per the video posted earlier except I use one of those little otis cleaning kit brushes to apply a nice coat to it.

To the naysayers here (not trying to sound like an #######), fire 200 rounds back to back with a CLP'ed weapon, then fire 200 rounds back to back with a greased weapon. (1 stoppage on the CLPed weapon btw) Strip your bolt and take a look, I found inside the bolt+carrier, the gas rings on the CLP'ed weapon was blown dry, while later with the greased weapon there was still lubrication left behind. I use the same grease on my glock and don't even need to reapply until its at my magic "500 rounds" cleaning number.

Granted if its only with 5-10 round mags and short strings of fire you wont really notice much of a difference between the two lubes. I just prefer grease so I don't have to re-lube my AR until its at my 500rnds cleaning time. Hope this helps.

ps when I clean, i simply wipe the grease off, clean with CLP wipe dry, and reapply grease.
 
I use and prefer the aeroshell moly grease for the LAV 25mm cannon, slick and doesn't blow off after extended firing like CLP will. If its not available I have no problem using LOTS of CLP (I practically soak the bolt in CLP and just wipe off the bolt face). The useless part is a lot of it will drip out of the weapon and attract dirt and sand to the outside of the weapon which is my main beef with CLP.

I apply the grease as per the video posted earlier except I use one of those little otis cleaning kit brushes to apply a nice coat to it.

To the naysayers here (not trying to sound like an a**hole), fire 200 rounds back to back with a CLP'ed weapon, then fire 200 rounds back to back with a greased weapon. (1 stoppage on the CLPed weapon btw) Strip your bolt and take a look, I found inside the bolt+carrier, the gas rings on the CLP'ed weapon was blown dry, while later with the greased weapon there was still lubrication left behind. I use the same grease on my glock and don't even need to reapply until its at my magic "500 rounds" cleaning number.

Granted if its only with 5-10 round mags and short strings of fire you wont really notice much of a difference between the two lubes. I just prefer grease so I don't have to re-lube my AR until its at my 500rnds cleaning time. Hope this helps.

ps when I clean, i simply wipe the grease off, clean with CLP wipe dry, and reapply grease.

+1
I always have CLP in stock for my AR's, and a little grease as well. I just love soaking my rifle's with CLP though...Lol.

It's tradition, plus i still get a lot of it for free..
 
I actually look forward to reading this thread.

I started using CLP once we changed over from gun oil in the CF. Needless to say, I do blame CLP for the nasty rash outbreaks that I used to get. Couldn't prove it, but strange it happened to me after every weapon cleaning??? Never happened to me after cleaning C5s or C6s when I used to use gun oil. (and I literally used to bathe in gun oil when I used it!)

So I actually look forward to trying out some things like Slip 2000 and TW25. Only please tell me who carries these things when you mention them.
 
Can someone tell my why Remmington and Hoppes don't make gun GREASE? wonder why the gun makers and gun maker cleaners don't make it. The swiss black grease is good for storage and lightly, very lightly greasing the rails in swiss arms and ar's as a last resort. Anyone wonder why a car uses different kinds of oils for different kinds of apps? Hmm, trny, dif, engine, bearings etc? Gun oil is always better than grease. and some gun oils are better than others. TDC hope one day your into learning rather than criticizing it will make your life easier. You have no idea who some of us are and what our experiences are and where good info comes from . If you can't help out a fellow gunman and shooter than take a hike. This forum is for folks who wish to learn and help not for big mouths.
 
Can someone tell my why Remmington and Hoppes don't make gun GREASE? wonder why the gun makers and gun maker cleaners don't make it. The swiss black grease is good for storage and lightly, very lightly greasing the rails in swiss arms and ar's as a last resort. Anyone wonder why a car uses different kinds of oils for different kinds of apps? Hmm, trny, dif, engine, bearings etc? Gun oil is always better than grease. and some gun oils are better than others. TDC hope one day your into learning rather than criticizing it will make your life easier. You have no idea who some of us are and what our experiences are and where good info comes from . If you can't help out a fellow gunman and shooter than take a hike. This forum is for folks who wish to learn and help not for big mouths.


My personal belief - grease will work as a pure lubricate. However, lubrication is not the only thing that matters - hence the C and P part of CLP.

My belief is that - a low viscosity grease will work well in an internal application even there is a large amount of rather uniformly sized carbon particles - however, rifles are subjected to sand and other foreign "objects". A high viscosity oil will actually help to migrate foreign matters from the bearing surface. So that's the trade off.
 
Not according to me, according to many others. There is no need to lubricate the spring.

Yeah, I've read the pams, wrote the lesson plans, and instructed the courses -thanks though.
I understand the doctrine, and disagree with some common thinking.:pirate:

As I said, the buffers interaction with the buffer spring translates to reciprocation and friction between the three parts (tube too) - If you add in the Carrier, that's four.

Even with a lubricated BCG the spring does not get lubricated. If you're lubricating the entire BCG you're wrong.

If there is enough lubrication present it works its way off of the bolt carrier onto the walls of the buffer tube, and from there onto the buffer and spring.
Not a lot, but it gets there anyhow, regardless if you only lube the rails or the entire carrier.

There are four rails which the BCG rides and that is all that needs lube, aside from the bolt itself.


In theory, yes the bolt carrier rides the rails, and therefore are the only items on the carrier needing lubrication, but there are items to consider:

While the rails provide the bearing surface between the carrier and upper receiver, the clearances of the rails to the receiver have a considerable amount of play (play that is admitedly needed for proper & reliable function) Once the bolt unlocks after firing, this play allows for the possibility the carrier doesn't always ride 'true' when it cycles back into the buffer tube. I'm not saying there will be considerable contact or adverse 'canting' of the carrier in the tube, just that it is possible. Lubing around the entire carrier and the buffer and spring will account for this movement.


The spring is subjected to very little if any moisture.

Under normal Southern Alberta climate and your use, I'd tend to agree. For all others, I'd recommend they modify their approach to the climatic and operating conditions they face.
 
You make a few points that need correction. Please don't take offense.
Can someone tell my why Remmington and Hoppes don't make gun GREASE? wonder why the gun makers and gun maker cleaners don't make it.
Hoppes does indeed make gun grease. I have some. http://www.hoppes.com/products/gun_grease.html

And here's a link to a gun maker's grease:
http://www.sauer-waffen.de/index.php?id=697&lang=en



The swiss black grease is good for storage and lightly, very lightly greasing the rails in swiss arms and ar's as a last resort. Anyone wonder why a car uses different kinds of oils for different kinds of apps? Hmm, trny, dif, engine, bearings etc? Gun oil is always better than grease.

Not sure I follow your logic on this one. You've never seen grease used on a car?!? In addition to wheel bearing, door hinges, truck hinges, door locks, etc, they use grease when assembling motors, after that an engine has a wet sump, so it's not a valid comparison anyway. Here's a link to an article from an expert. I posted it above, guess you didn't read it. I suggest you do, it opposes everything your saying, and explains the engineering science why.

http://grantcunningham.com/lubricants101.html
 
You make a few points that need correction. Please don't take offense.

Hoppes does indeed make gun grease. I have some. http://www.hoppes.com/products/gun_grease.html

And here's a link to a gun maker's grease:
http://www.sauer-waffen.de/index.php?id=697&lang=en





No offense taken, I too have a lot to learn, just know that grease has many less applications in a gun than oil, for many reasons. In fact almost all guns are shipped with grease on them and grease is great for applying when storing the firearms. when using though most manufacturers ask you to clean them thoughourly and then lube them with "what".
 
Like some others here, I prefer grease on my issued C7/C8. The LAV 25mm grease (aeroshell) Molybdenum Disulfide worked GREAT for me on operations and stayed put. I also found that it allowed carbon and filth to stick to the grease and just wipe off of the metal.

Note: moly grease is toxic, wear gloves!

Lithium or PTFE greases also work well and I like them, I just haven't put them through the same kicking as moly grease, and I plan to try out tw25 to see how that goes.

As far as CLP- it doesn't clean as well as hoppe's, and I find that there is too much teflon which gums up the action over time or in the cold. ( I don't care what study you have read that says otherwise, that is my personal experience) If there is no grease available I use straight gun oil in it's place.

Oh, and to whomever had rashes from the CLP- you are totally correct. When I was first in there was a guy that was released because he had such bad reactions to CLP that he couldn't do any weapons maintenance. Not sure whether he remustered or not, but he was out of the Army for sure.
 
when using though most manufacturers ask you to clean them thoughourly and then lube them with "what".

For anything on a gun that slides or carries a load, use grease. ie. Slide rails, bolt carriers and sears. For anything else use a good appropriate oil. That article recommends automatic transmission fluid or Nyoil. There are many types of oils that should not be used, all explained in that link.
 
grease isn't aweful for crude parts of the gun, its just there are better products, but what do I know, not many of us shoot for a living.
 
robertf, grease is a very specific lubricant and manages to hold particulate, that is what is does. the dirtier the gun you use it in the more crud that will accumulate in the grease the worse your gun will perform. Its not hard to understand for most. Climates, conditions, and use all affect how your grease will perform much more so than they will affect how oils perform, all of which I assume you all ready know. Running grease in a small arm is simply unwise. Many folks do it, lots of folks hire hookers too. Just because someone does something and doesn't pay the consequences it doesn't mean its the best thing to do.

To answer your question BREAKFREE CLP is about the best product the initial poster could use to run in the gun he is shooting. Essox is probably the next best, both great lubricants and rust inhibitors and won't accumulate crud like grease.
 
Why run a product that is just "good enough" or is "fine" when there are better products for less money??

TDC

...Because it really is "good enough" for the amount I shoot, and the type of shooting I do. Because I LOVE the smell of "old" CLP, and because I have a Sh*tload of it, almost a lifetime's supply, most of which I got for free.

I agree there are "better" lubes, definitely better cleaners (I use CLP as as an L & P, not a cleaner). I even agree that grease and/or "xyz2000" is great stuff, but I don't feel that (to use the Hungery quote again), your #### will fall off if you only use good old CLP.
 
Are you serious? I've put over 600 rounds thru my Stag, I haven't even cleaned it and she just keeps going and going..Hell she makes the energizer bunny look like an amateur.
 
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