AR Won't cycle or chamber next round
- Thread starter jonathonh
- Start date
Is the firing pin still rattle?
Is the buffer tube retainer pin still there?
Also try dry firing the lower seperate from the upper.
Make sure that the trigger is still being held down after the hammer drops then with the oposite hand push back the hammer and see if it drops once you let go or if the hammer stays put.
Also take a bottle of compressed air and blow it down the gas tube in the reciever and see if you can feel air movent at the end of the barrel.
Report back and tell us what you find.
Is the buffer tube retainer pin still there?
Also try dry firing the lower seperate from the upper.
Make sure that the trigger is still being held down after the hammer drops then with the oposite hand push back the hammer and see if it drops once you let go or if the hammer stays put.
Also take a bottle of compressed air and blow it down the gas tube in the reciever and see if you can feel air movent at the end of the barrel.
Report back and tell us what you find.
I sent off the upper to the original owner, and he is sending back a new upper for me as I previously mentioned so I can't dow the compressed air procedure, and I sent the bolt/charging handle back with the upper so I can't check the firing pin either.
As for the buffer tube retaining pin... yes it is still there, haha I'm fairly new to AR's but not an idiot. It is there now, and was there when I tried the different buffer springs and buffers.
I pulled the trigger and let the hammer drop (don't worry not slam, I guided it), then pulled the hammer back while continuing to hold down on the trigger. I feel the hammer semi catch, but while still holding down the trigger and letting pressure off the hammer, it does drop again.
As for the buffer tube retaining pin... yes it is still there, haha I'm fairly new to AR's but not an idiot. It is there now, and was there when I tried the different buffer springs and buffers.
I pulled the trigger and let the hammer drop (don't worry not slam, I guided it), then pulled the hammer back while continuing to hold down on the trigger. I feel the hammer semi catch, but while still holding down the trigger and letting pressure off the hammer, it does drop again.
Hmmm...
I am gathering you tried this more than once and every time the same reasult right.
I think it's time you revisted FrankCJ7 post and try to figure out why this is happening or if you don't feel up to it I would try to find a gun smith that knows about the AR platform to look into your lower assembely.
Yeah tried it a few times. I'll definitely continue trouble shooting and trying suggestions from your guys' posts, but unfortunately no good gun smiths I can think of in my immediate area, meaning I would maybe have to send it away. If any of you guys are close to Lethbridge and wanna have a crack at her let me know.
And thanks again for the continued suggestions and help everyone! MUCH appreciated! One of the many reasons I love this forum!
My Colt Sporter was doing the double tap thing too when I released the trigger. Working the trigger group by hand wouldn't replicate the issue though. After I stripped the trigger group out I discovered the notch in the hammer that engages the trigger wasn't machined properly. This rifle had less them 1000 rounds through it when I bought it. I swapped hammers and the problem went away.
Hey guys,
I received my new upper yesterday morning. But following a suggestion from a fellow CGN'r, I attempted to do a function test on the rifle before I take it down to the range again. Here's the one I did:
Patrol Rifle Function Test:
Make certain that there is no live ammunition in the rifle or associated magazines. Again, I find a physical chamber check going up through the mag well faster and more accurate than a visual check.
-Let the bolt go forward.
-Insert a mag and lock it into the mag well.
-Pull back smartly on the charging handle. The bolt should lock to the rear. If it does not, check the orientation of the magazine springs. Unlike most pistol magazines, the spring in most AR-15 mil-spec mags is attached to the follower and is difficult to orient backward. But, if it is humanly possible…
-Push the charging handle forward into the locked position.
-Push the magazine release button. The magazine should fall free under its own weight. -If it does not, it could be due to either a bent magazine tube OR the magazine release catch has been screwed too far into the mag well. If you have the same problem with all of your mags, try backing off the catch arm one full turn and repeat the test.
-Slap the bolt release. The bolt should fly forward sharply and lock up into the rear of the barrel.
-Point the muzzle in a safe direction and put the safety on “Safe”. Pull the trigger, hard. Nothing should happen.
-Put the safety on “Fire”. Press the trigger. You should have a normal trigger press and hammer fall. Keep the trigger depressed.
-Rack the charging handle.
-Let the trigger go forward slowly until you hear and feel the very loud disconnector reset.
-Press the trigger again.
-Attempt to put the safety on “Safe”. With the hammer down on an AR-15 and variants, the safety cannot be put on safe.
-Repeat for all remaining magazines.
I run into issues on the bold underlined red font area. After I rack the charging handle and let pressure off the trigger, I do not "feel or hear the very loud disconnector reset."
Then when I pull the trigger again immediately after i follow this procedure nothing happens. So he hammer must be falling as the bolt slams forward when I rack the charging handle while holding the trigger? Am I going to be looking at maybe a new lower parts kit for the rifle?
I received my new upper yesterday morning. But following a suggestion from a fellow CGN'r, I attempted to do a function test on the rifle before I take it down to the range again. Here's the one I did:
Patrol Rifle Function Test:
Make certain that there is no live ammunition in the rifle or associated magazines. Again, I find a physical chamber check going up through the mag well faster and more accurate than a visual check.
-Let the bolt go forward.
-Insert a mag and lock it into the mag well.
-Pull back smartly on the charging handle. The bolt should lock to the rear. If it does not, check the orientation of the magazine springs. Unlike most pistol magazines, the spring in most AR-15 mil-spec mags is attached to the follower and is difficult to orient backward. But, if it is humanly possible…
-Push the charging handle forward into the locked position.
-Push the magazine release button. The magazine should fall free under its own weight. -If it does not, it could be due to either a bent magazine tube OR the magazine release catch has been screwed too far into the mag well. If you have the same problem with all of your mags, try backing off the catch arm one full turn and repeat the test.
-Slap the bolt release. The bolt should fly forward sharply and lock up into the rear of the barrel.
-Point the muzzle in a safe direction and put the safety on “Safe”. Pull the trigger, hard. Nothing should happen.
-Put the safety on “Fire”. Press the trigger. You should have a normal trigger press and hammer fall. Keep the trigger depressed.
-Rack the charging handle.
-Let the trigger go forward slowly until you hear and feel the very loud disconnector reset.
-Press the trigger again.
-Attempt to put the safety on “Safe”. With the hammer down on an AR-15 and variants, the safety cannot be put on safe.
-Repeat for all remaining magazines.
I run into issues on the bold underlined red font area. After I rack the charging handle and let pressure off the trigger, I do not "feel or hear the very loud disconnector reset."
Then when I pull the trigger again immediately after i follow this procedure nothing happens. So he hammer must be falling as the bolt slams forward when I rack the charging handle while holding the trigger? Am I going to be looking at maybe a new lower parts kit for the rifle?
lejarretnoir
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- 162km from Connaught
Time to replace some parts in the trigger group and /or hammer. Someone might have attempted to stone/polish some parts or they are just worn. Now would be a good time to get a aftermarket trigger if you want something nicer. If I could look at it I'd know, but I'm too far away.
Does the trigger have a very light pull? Is it a two stage with no creep and sudden let off or does it go off immediately?
Does the trigger have a very light pull? Is it a two stage with no creep and sudden let off or does it go off immediately?
That sucks haha because when I received the rifle the lower was brand new and I'm assuming a new lower parts kit that the previous owner said was DPMS.
Do I just worry about getting a new trigger/hammer and maybe disconnect? Any suggestions on which to buy and where to get it? Brownells?
Cheers
Do I just worry about getting a new trigger/hammer and maybe disconnect? Any suggestions on which to buy and where to get it? Brownells?
Cheers
lejarretnoir
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- 162km from Connaught
Assuming?
Sometimes all these new kits and different parts don't match up and have to be fitted. DPMS make good stuff.
Brownell's is hit and miss whether they ship this or that firearms part. Depends whether the original MFG applied for export permits. All you can do is phone and ask the international desk and have part#'s in hand.
Sometimes all these new kits and different parts don't match up and have to be fitted. DPMS make good stuff.
Brownell's is hit and miss whether they ship this or that firearms part. Depends whether the original MFG applied for export permits. All you can do is phone and ask the international desk and have part#'s in hand.
lejarretnoir
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- 162km from Connaught
My advise is to get an aftermarket trigger like JP Enterprises, Jewell, etc and install it yourself if you think you could do that. I like the JP triggers because they are single stage, but I'm not sure if they ship to Canada. Brownells stocks several types.
