Arisaka Type 99
- Thread starter dgradinaru
- Start date
Well if were showing pictures...
31st (?) series 1942 Toyo Kogyo (Hiroshima). Non matching but has the mum intact and AA sights/dust cover so I snapped it up. Picked up the proper bayonet shortly after. I have only fired 10 or so rounds of factory Norma stuff but have not bothered to reload for it yet. Surprisingly accurate at 50m. Will do a full range report on it one of these days.
31st (?) series 1942 Toyo Kogyo (Hiroshima). Non matching but has the mum intact and AA sights/dust cover so I snapped it up. Picked up the proper bayonet shortly after. I have only fired 10 or so rounds of factory Norma stuff but have not bothered to reload for it yet. Surprisingly accurate at 50m. Will do a full range report on it one of these days.
Coyote Ugly
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
It looks like the bolt has been "Pimp-Shined" on the Buffing Wheel.
Need my shades on, it's so bright!
Need my shades on, it's so bright!
I just bought a arisaka Type99, These rifles are new to me since i only collect and shoot Mausers. How do i determine if its Mid war, late war, Last ditch rifles? Or which year and factory produced it.
Wheres the best place to buy 7.7x58MM Jap ammo?
If anybody has any good info about them feel welcome to tell me since i dont know nothing about them.
What are these Rifles worth?
Here are the pics of the one i just bought.
Well, I had horseshoes up my butt a few years ago at the Kamloops gunshow and scored this pristine Nagoya Transitional Type 99 for a mere $100. I am hoping you paid about the same for that poor Bubba'd example. All I can say is that the guy who sanded off the original Urushi finish must have gotten one hell of an itchy rash for his troubles, and rightfully so!
I am hoping you paid about the same for that poor Bubba'd example. All I can say is that the guy who sanded off the original Urushi finish must have gotten one hell of an itchy rash for his troubles, and rightfully so!
Well, I had horseshoes up my butt a few years ago at the Kamloops gunshow and scored this pristine Nagoya Transitional Type 99 for a mere $100.
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You stole that!!
Well, I had horseshoes up my butt a few years ago at the Kamloops gunshow and scored this pristine Nagoya Transitional Type 99 for a mere $100.
Intact Mum?
Right on, have you shot it? If so what are you waiting for...
BOOOOLETS.....@$75 a box, I can't afford to do anything but fondle it....
ghostntheshell
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- GTA ONTARIO
S e v e n t y f I v e dollars a box??????
Cripes.
Cripes.
Bullets at $75.00 per box ?
Must be a big box.
The Japanese used Lewis guns in 7.7mm as did the Italians. The Japanese rimmed 7.7mm is the .303 British cartridges.
The information I have on hand is that the 7.7x58mm is a rimless version of the .303.
Slug the bore, I think you’ll find you can use .303 bullets or you can use cast bullets to cut down on plunking costs.
Also look at http://curioandrelicfirearmsforum.yuku.com/topic/5331
Must be a big box.
The Japanese used Lewis guns in 7.7mm as did the Italians. The Japanese rimmed 7.7mm is the .303 British cartridges.
The information I have on hand is that the 7.7x58mm is a rimless version of the .303.
Slug the bore, I think you’ll find you can use .303 bullets or you can use cast bullets to cut down on plunking costs.
Also look at http://curioandrelicfirearmsforum.yuku.com/topic/5331
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Yup, Lever Arms is the only guys I have seen with them (Norma 174gn), $75 for 20 rounds.
I heard that you can resize and trim 30,06 cases to reload 7.7 Jap, but I am not a reloader...
I bought Norma 7.7mm Jap ammo from Ellwood Epps at $40/box a few months ago. I reload so it was worth the investment (can't go wrong with Norma brass).
IMHO, do A LOT of research before you decide to reload for Arisakas (for either Type 38 and 99) using other caliber brass. Some folks base their alternate brass decisions on the reloading manual specs and measurements for various cases. In theory, that should be close enough, but in reality Arisakas (both 6.5mm and 7.7mm) were built with purposely oversized chamber dimensions to ensure positive functioning in adverse field conditions (even more than Lee Enfields). The end result is, even when using factory 7.7mm Jap brass (and 6.5mm for Type 38s), often a moderately bulged case after firing. The more "off" your alternate brass is from actual Jap brass, and the hotter the load, the more you risk rupturing cases. The Arisaka action is one of the strongest, but many bolts are mismatched and headspace varies like the wind, so be cautious when considering alternates.
Not trying to start a flame war here (I'm sure someone is going to say that they've used .30/06 in the 7.7 since Dubya Dubya Two with no problems), but just be aware that these Jap rifles are particular about brass... and Tojo wasn't into reloading back in the day!
Yup, factory Jap ammo is pricey, but at least you're guaranteed to be able to sell your brass for decent coin if you don't reload. As a side note for the Type 38 owners out there, I've asked Trade Ex if they're going to offer 6.5mm Jap brass anytime soon, the reply was that they've been trying to get the stuff from Prvi for well over a year now with no luck.
BANZAI!!!
IMHO, do A LOT of research before you decide to reload for Arisakas (for either Type 38 and 99) using other caliber brass. Some folks base their alternate brass decisions on the reloading manual specs and measurements for various cases. In theory, that should be close enough, but in reality Arisakas (both 6.5mm and 7.7mm) were built with purposely oversized chamber dimensions to ensure positive functioning in adverse field conditions (even more than Lee Enfields). The end result is, even when using factory 7.7mm Jap brass (and 6.5mm for Type 38s), often a moderately bulged case after firing. The more "off" your alternate brass is from actual Jap brass, and the hotter the load, the more you risk rupturing cases. The Arisaka action is one of the strongest, but many bolts are mismatched and headspace varies like the wind, so be cautious when considering alternates.
Not trying to start a flame war here (I'm sure someone is going to say that they've used .30/06 in the 7.7 since Dubya Dubya Two with no problems), but just be aware that these Jap rifles are particular about brass... and Tojo wasn't into reloading back in the day!
Yup, factory Jap ammo is pricey, but at least you're guaranteed to be able to sell your brass for decent coin if you don't reload. As a side note for the Type 38 owners out there, I've asked Trade Ex if they're going to offer 6.5mm Jap brass anytime soon, the reply was that they've been trying to get the stuff from Prvi for well over a year now with no luck.
BANZAI!!!
See posts 16 and 17, this thread.
Six-five Arisaka is a Semi-rimmed case which headspaces on the RIM. You can make it up from .220 Swift brass with little trouble dimensionally, but the internal capacity of the Swift case is less, so pressures will be higher. Load DOWN a bit and the lower internal capacity will bring pressures back up to where they should be. These rifles work best with a relatively-soft bullet jacket: Metford rifling gives a lot of distortion. I am using Remington flatbase 140s and they work fine.
Japs made THREE different 7.7 rounds: Rimless, Semi-rimmed and Rimmed. Rimmed is a copy of the .303" British, others are ballistic copies using the same components except for the brass. For the rifle cartridge, you will get into very little trouble if you start with MILSPEC 8x57 or .30-'06 brass. It's the undersized stuff on the low side of SAAMI specs that might give trouble. Try Prvi Partizan brass or US Military stuff, as Post 16. Trade-ex has the Partizan 8x57 in big bags.
Seventy-five bucks a box is highway robbery without a decent highway..... but that's what the Swedes want. Hojst svensk qvalitaet med hojst svensk pris. You might want to try and make them REALLY ticked by using 6.5x55 Svedish brass as your starting-point. It's a bit short but it will stretch if you anneal the front half, size down and pull out a couple of times. You will end up with a case about 2mm short and the supposed extra 2 or 3 thou at the base should fill any gaping voids in the Arisaka chamber.
Cartridge case is just a brass bottle that holds a complete load: powder, primer, bullet. Brass is relatively soft; you can push it around. So start pushing.
It is much nicer than putsching, you must admit.
.
Six-five Arisaka is a Semi-rimmed case which headspaces on the RIM. You can make it up from .220 Swift brass with little trouble dimensionally, but the internal capacity of the Swift case is less, so pressures will be higher. Load DOWN a bit and the lower internal capacity will bring pressures back up to where they should be. These rifles work best with a relatively-soft bullet jacket: Metford rifling gives a lot of distortion. I am using Remington flatbase 140s and they work fine.
Japs made THREE different 7.7 rounds: Rimless, Semi-rimmed and Rimmed. Rimmed is a copy of the .303" British, others are ballistic copies using the same components except for the brass. For the rifle cartridge, you will get into very little trouble if you start with MILSPEC 8x57 or .30-'06 brass. It's the undersized stuff on the low side of SAAMI specs that might give trouble. Try Prvi Partizan brass or US Military stuff, as Post 16. Trade-ex has the Partizan 8x57 in big bags.
Seventy-five bucks a box is highway robbery without a decent highway..... but that's what the Swedes want. Hojst svensk qvalitaet med hojst svensk pris. You might want to try and make them REALLY ticked by using 6.5x55 Svedish brass as your starting-point. It's a bit short but it will stretch if you anneal the front half, size down and pull out a couple of times. You will end up with a case about 2mm short and the supposed extra 2 or 3 thou at the base should fill any gaping voids in the Arisaka chamber.
Cartridge case is just a brass bottle that holds a complete load: powder, primer, bullet. Brass is relatively soft; you can push it around. So start pushing.
It is much nicer than putsching, you must admit.
.
