Barrel Cleaning copper solvent

[chopper 1]

Hmmm...I got some of that KG12 a couple years back and it didn't seem to work worth a damn....I just cleaned with it, didn't try any fancy test.....maybe I'll dig it out and try again one of these days......?

KG 12 WAS DEVELOPED FOR THE ARMY TO REMOVE COPPER FROM CANNON BARRELS !
You have to clean all powder residue first - hoppes 9, or windex etc. THEN patch with KG 12 -
The copper is black on the patch not blue - blue comes from ammonia reacting with copper.

 

[Dmay]

Well, I gave it another try....

First, I cleaned with Hoppes, until the powder fouling was all gone, then ran two dry patches.
Following the instuctions for the KG12, I soaked a patch (#1 in pic) and ran it slowly the entire length of the bore for 20 strokes (actually 21, to exit the muzzle). It had dark residue, presumably copper, on it.
Did the same thing with patches 2 - 4, with less color showing each time, as the pics show. With the #4 patch being clean, I presumed that the copper fouling had been removed, so dry-patched the bore twice.
Then, to check for copper, I ran a patch with CR10, giving 10 (actually 11) full-bore passes. As the pic shows, there was clearly copper present in the bore. It took several more patches than the successive ones shown to remove it all.
In my opinion, while this product may work in some military applications, as they claim, it doesn't seem to work very good on my varmint rifle.

[/IMG]

 

[chopper 1]

Well, I gave it another try....

First, I cleaned with Hoppes, until the powder fouling was all gone, then ran two dry patches.
Following the instuctions for the KG12, I soaked a patch (#1 in pic) and ran it slowly the entire length of the bore for 20 strokes (actually 21, to exit the muzzle). It had dark residue, presumably copper, on it.
Did the same thing with patches 2 - 4, with less color showing each time, as the pics show. With the #4 patch being clean, I presumed that the copper fouling had been removed, so dry-patched the bore twice.
Then, to check for copper, I ran a patch with CR10, giving 10 (actually 11) full-bore passes. As the pic shows, there was clearly copper present in the bore. It took several more patches than the successive ones shown to remove it all.
In my opinion, while this product may work in some military applications, as they claim, it doesn't seem to work very good on my varmint rifle.

[/IMG]

The blue is from your jag not your barrel - try it again with a plastic jag

 

[SandRoad]

One thing with products like KG12 is that they take TIME to react. Simply pushing a patch through the barrel will not remove much copper.

Apply it to the bore, let it sit, and keep it wet for 10+ minutes, and then run your cleaning patches.

KG12 is a chelating agent, which "lifts" the copper, compared to ammonia which REACTS chemically with the copper, and is a much faster reaction.

 

[manitou210]

Been using Wipe-out foam recently and am quite impresed. Best to take barrel/action out of stock as really aggressive on any finish except maybe Varathane or epoxy.
Geoff in Victoria

x2 Geoff

 

[Dmay]

My test was done using a plastic jag.

If time is what the product needs to work, they should mention that in their directions for use.

Don't think I'll waste any more time with this stuff....I'll give mine to anybody wants to carry on testing it.....

 

[10x]

My test was done using a plastic jag.

If time is what the product needs to work, they should mention that in their directions for use.

Don't think I'll waste any more time with this stuff....I'll give mine to anybody wants to carry on testing it.....

I use Brake Kleen to get rid of the powder fouling and then household ammonia to clean out copper fouling. Then a rinse with hot water, dry with patches and light oil. This is the no BS and cheap version.
BTW: if you have issues in the barrel that show up after cleaning this way it is because the brake kleen and ammonia took out the fouling that was covering any frosting or pits. I have used this method on many .303 barrels and you would not believe how good, or bad the bore would look after cleaning.
Fouling hides a great deal.

 

[TwoTone]

I use Brake Kleen to get rid of the powder fouling and then household ammonia to clean out copper fouling. Then a rinse with hot water, dry with patches and light oil. This is the no BS and cheap version.
BTW: if you have issues in the barrel that show up after cleaning this way it is because the brake kleen and ammonia took out the fouling that was covering any frosting or pits. I have used this method on many .303 barrels and you would not believe how good, or bad the bore would look after cleaning.
Fouling hides a great deal.

10X. I agree with your procedure. That is exactly what I do and it works very well. The copper is removed - period.

Pretty boring though with no mystery ingredients,Voodoo or Witchcraft.

 

[Denn0001]

I use the Kleen Bore No. 10 Copper Cutter on a brass brush and run that through the bore a few times. I then run a couple of patches through. Then I use G96 complete gun treatment on patches to further clean and lubricate the bore. The G96 is a apray that has a straw that plugs into the nozzel so I can also get into tight areas of the action also. This combination seems to work well for me.

 

[Why not?]

Way back in this thread, #11, I posted the following:

Industrial strength (12-14%) ammonia. You can get it at any janitorial supply house.

A jug costs peanuts and will last you and five of your buddies for years. We are still working on the one I have, and the jug is still 2/3 full.

As Guntech posted, just be sure to oil the bore after cleaning it.

Ted

Just to follow up, after using the ammonia I patch twice dry, and then twice with KROIL.

Copper disappears in a hurry, and have never had a problem with rusting.

Ted

 

[looch]

10X. I agree with your procedure. That is exactly what I do and it works very well. The copper is removed - period.

Pretty boring though with no mystery ingredients,Voodoo or Witchcraft.

I agree. Very effective.

 

[chopper 1]

then

My test was done using a plastic jag.

If time is what the product needs to work, they should mention that in their directions for use.

Don't think I'll waste any more time with this stuff....I'll give mine to anybody wants to carry on testing it.....

send it to me -- thanx - but before u do - let it sit for 12 hrs in the bore to get all the copper out - thats why I like it - no rod pushing -- no work -
Also - try ammonia cleaners in a pristine bore -- see if the blue also comes from reaction with any metal --

 

[looch]

Also - try ammonia cleaners in a pristine bore -- see if the blue also comes from reaction with any metal --

Why?!?

I do not understand this irrational fear of ammonia.

 

[chopper 1]

Why?!?

I do not understand this irrational fear of ammonia.

What irrational fear ? Nothing in the post about that -
Nothing wrong with using ammonia as long as you oil afterwards

KG12 is just less work - I'm naturally lazy and like it that way --

 

[looch]

Why did you suggest to try ammonia in a pristine bore?

 

[10x]

Why did you suggest to try ammonia in a pristine bore?

How would cleaning with ammonia damage a pristine bore?
In reality most guns are test fired with a proof round. Even brand new guns will have a bit of copper fouling in them.

 

[chopper 1]

Why did you suggest to try ammonia in a pristine bore?

to see if the patches come out blue -

 

[10x]

to see if the patches come out blue -

And they will if you use a copper bore brush or a brass jag....

 

[looch]

to see if the patches come out blue -

If it's a pristine bore, and you aren't using brass cleaning equipment, they won't come out blue.

You say KG12 is less work. Have you tried ammonia?

You know what - this is dumb. Use whatever you like and what works for you.

I use ammonia because it is cheap, easy, and contrary to popular belief, won't hurt your rifle.

 

[10x]

snip
I use ammonia because it is cheap, easy, and contrary to popular belief, won't hurt your rifle.

I use ammonia because it works the best of all and I'm cheap...