Beam powder scales vs cheap digital scales vs powder scoop

actually the didgital scale are the ones that mess up the beam scale will fail
The knife edges on the fulcrum point on the beam balance scale can become dull, or the V saddle stone can get worn, or gritty, and also give false readings or "wandering readings." It's a very good idea to have a known weight object, or several too test them for repeatability as well.

I used to repair both load cell scales and beam balances used in industry, weighing from ounces to tons. Both types can and do develop problems.

Usually, a good cleaning will bring things back to normal, but not always.

One of the biggest mistakes made by handloaders is not checking levels and adjusting their units for zero.

I have the spot on my table, where the scale rests, outlined with Sharpie ink, to place the scale in the same location every time I use it. Same goes for the digital scale. They need to be zeroed while level.
 
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I went digital about 12 years ago and will not return to my RCBS balance scale. My GemPro 300 digital scale does drift from time-to-time however, I keep a very close eye on it. Over time, a person becomes aware of it's little quirks where a quick calibration is required. I do plan to purchase a better reliable digital scale in the near future.
 
Beam scales are vulnerable to dust collecting in the V blocks and it takes very little. The dust won't even be hardly perceptible on a counter top or other surface but it can be enough to throw your scale off. A quick blast of air solves the problem instantly.
Someone said they blow off the V blocks before every weighting session, that's probably good advice although I don't tend to do it.
 
The knife edges on the fulcrum point on the beam balance scale can become dull, or the V saddle stone can get worn, or gritty, and also give false readings or "wandering readings." It's a very good idea to have a known weight object, or several too test them for repeatability as well.

I used to repair both load cell scales and beam balances used in industry, weighing from ounces to tons. Both types can and do develop problems.

Usually, a good cleaning will bring things back to normal, but not always.

One of the biggest mistakes made by handloaders is not checking levels and adjusting their units for zero.

I have the spot on my table, where the scale rests, outlined with Sharpie ink, to place the scale in the same location every time I use it. Same goes for the digital scale. They need to be zeroed while level.
Beam scales don't need to rest on V-blocks or need to be level to surface or whatever you want to call it.,

They can be "suspended "without any leveled surface used. Gravity will level them - I'm sure you heard/read about it...

Counterweights need to be used in either case (suspended or "leveled") in order to calibrate.
 
Beam scales don't need to rest on V-blocks or need to be level to surface or whatever you want to call it.,

They can be "suspended "without any leveled surface used. Gravity will level them - I'm sure you heard/read about it...

Counterweights need to be used in either case (suspended or "leveled") in order to calibrate.
I haven't seen a beam scale yet, that's accurate if it's not level.

If you're going on about the hand held scales or suspended scales, they aren't accurate, but close enough when you're weighing a side of beef.

I have a very accurate beam scale, not the 5-0-5, and it has to be adjusted for zero whenever it's moved to a different surface.

Most reloading beam scales have an adjustment screw on the front to "level" the scale.

The "V" blocks are the fulcrum point of the scale, and for precision work, they need to be clean and "level," or they will bind.
 
I don’t know why anyone would not level the surface the scale sits on. Probably have some room, left to right but tipping the scale towards or away from you can’t be good. Set the beam scale on a large book, and place the book on a tennis ball and see what it does when you tilt it around.
 
Beam scales don't need to rest on V-blocks or need to be level to surface or whatever you want to call it.,

They can be "suspended "without any leveled surface used. Gravity will level them - I'm sure you heard/read about it...

Counterweights need to be used in either case (suspended or "leveled") in order to calibrate.
The suspended balance beam scales that I've seen use V blocks, if they are going to be even remotely accurate then they need to.
 
Just use a 3/4" washer for a weight. How much the weight weighs isn't as important as a consistent reading of the same object.

Use a Sharpie to mark the weight on the washer, and you're good to go.

Digital scales use electronic load cells to measure weight, beam balances use weights at different positions on the balance beam.

Drift is most often created by "air movement," such as breathing, wind currents from air vents, such as heaters, or an open window.

My Dillon and the RCBS 5-0-5 will move when someone moves close by.

You need to be careful with digital scales, not to allow stray grains of powder or some other detritous to accumulate on the weigh pad. It doesn't take much show a change on the readout.

The nice thing about a beam balance scale is you seldom have to worry about detritous getting under the pan, on the holding tray.
The washer will work to confidence check the scale for drift but it won't tell you if the reading is accurate. That might not make any difference in most circumstances, unless the scale was faulty from the start.
 
The washer will work to confidence check the scale for drift but it won't tell you if the reading is accurate. That might not make any difference in most circumstances, unless the scale was faulty from the start.
Even a "check weight" from Amazon won't tell you if the scale is accurate, or not. It will tell you the same thing as the washer.

There isn't one accurate scale on this entire thread.

R.
 
I have some checkweights, and used them when I switched my RCBS 5-0-5 pan to a Lyman plastic pan. I adjusted the weight in the scale pan tray until my scale was the happiest in the range I usually load for. I also have a 5-10 scale they both read the same at those weights so I know I’m good. Scales need to be repeatable, you don’t need a lab grade weight, only to be used in a vacuum while wearing PPE. I wish a had an FX120i however.
 
Likewise.
R.
You proclaim none of these scales are accurate because you want to impress someone with the accuracy you demand for long range shooting. Impressive, indeed.

Yesterday you said in your experience the Garmin chronograph wasn't good enough. Today it's powder scales.

You bring this attitude into a thread where OP is asking about loading rounds for 50 yd casual plinking and expect to be taken seriously.
 
You proclaim none of these scales are accurate because you want to impress someone with the accuracy you demand for long range shooting. Impressive, indeed.

You bring that attitude into a thread when OP is asking about loading rounds for 50 yd casual plinking and expect to be taken seriously.
Unlike yourself, the need to impress anyone doesn't exist. Especially on an internet forum. Long range shooting was not mentioned once.

Accuracy is never demanded. You should probably look up the definition. Consistency and repeatability are far more important.
None of these scales are accurate, because none of them are. It's a fact. That's all. The best part is, they don't have to be.

Only trying to show that most anyone doesn't need to blow their brains out trying to get an "accurate" scale, where it simply can't exist.
Also trying to show that it certainly isn't required. Maybe if you read and paid attention you would see that, instead of ranting.
If folks want to try and get an accurate scale, that's up to them. Maybe someone can use this info, maybe not.
Having an expectation of anything is a fool's game. You play it well.
Seriously? Again, it's an internet forum. You probably need to get out more.
Not sure what you think has been done to you... but whatever you think it is, it probably hasn't.
If one doesn't understand something, it's better to ask a question than to make a statement.
Now contribute, intelligently, or piss off.

R.
 
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Well every scale will vary, barometric pressure will make them vary, humidity will make them vary, and of course air movement will make them vary, that is why they come with a calibration weight and it is worth checking them every new sessions( if they aren’t the same day kind of thing). I say that cause I noticed with my 10-0-10 that it does change a little from one day to an other, not very much but a little so put it back to zero see where it sits and adjust the little foot accordingly. I want a descent electronic scale but I don’t wanna buy something that i won’t trust. So I’m waiting to have enough spare cash to buy a quality one like the gem pro 300 II( the 250 ain’t available anymore) it is in my price range, I don’t think I’m ready to spend more than $350 though since I reload only for hunting.
 
With all this talk about inaccuracy of scales ( both beam and electronic)
It's amazing how us competitors that weigh charges for long range BR, fullbore, Fclass , and ELR can hit anything !😒
Cat
 
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