Beam powder scales vs cheap digital scales vs powder scoop
- Thread starter Iloverevolvers
- Start date
If this young woman had shot the most perfectly manufactured round possible for her rifle and her "target", how much do you think that that would have contributed to this shot versus practicing her free-standing shooting technique?
(Again, your personal goal in shooting is paramount. And, BTW, I did not intend this video to promote anything to be sold. This was about the shooter, not the life size target.)
(Again, your personal goal in shooting is paramount. And, BTW, I did not intend this video to promote anything to be sold. This was about the shooter, not the life size target.)
Why so upset ?
It obviously went over your head that some were discussing (with humor and light sarcasm) different rabbit holes one can fall into when reloading.
But hey you have the right user handle for the pecker measuring contest. You win
It can. “Mine’s smaller” is just another way of playing “Mine’s bigger”.
"I shot more buffalo".
Great post, Dogleg!
FWIW, yesterday evening I decided to do some further preliminary case and Lee-kit-adjustment work in preparation for the arrival of my inferior bullets and inferior primers in a few days.
As someone previously recommended in this thread, first I chamfered the primer pocket a smidgen (smidgen being a tad less than a bit) in order to make the inferior primer installation easier.
Then I deburred/chamfered the case where one inserts the projectile.
After doing those two things, I decided to set the depth that the Lee kit's bullet-seater will insert the bullet. To get some idea of how deep the bullet should be inserted, I measured the OAL of one of my PMC bronze cartridges using a cheap, inaccurate Princess Auto digital caliper that I've been using for the past 15 years and compared that number to the Lee kit's recommended OAL. The former was approximately 1mm shorter than the latter, so, naturally, I decided to go with the PMC OAL.
I have a pristine bullet and some powder that I inertiaed from a PMC round, so I thought I'd use the bullet to set the bullet depth/OAL in a primerless, powderless, once-shot case. Short story shorter, using the die's locking ring, I locked the Lee kit's die so that it will now push in a bullet to the depth that the reloaded round will be "extremely close" to the OAL of that randomly-chosen PMC round.
Then I inertiaed that bullet out of the once-fired case. I'll use that bullet again to complete my first reloaded round in my life. I'll fire that round before doing any more reloading. If the now-twice-fired case ejects and re-chambers easily, I'll be off to the reloading races. I'm pumped!
FWIW, yesterday evening I decided to do some further preliminary case and Lee-kit-adjustment work in preparation for the arrival of my inferior bullets and inferior primers in a few days.
As someone previously recommended in this thread, first I chamfered the primer pocket a smidgen (smidgen being a tad less than a bit) in order to make the inferior primer installation easier.
Then I deburred/chamfered the case where one inserts the projectile.
After doing those two things, I decided to set the depth that the Lee kit's bullet-seater will insert the bullet. To get some idea of how deep the bullet should be inserted, I measured the OAL of one of my PMC bronze cartridges using a cheap, inaccurate Princess Auto digital caliper that I've been using for the past 15 years and compared that number to the Lee kit's recommended OAL. The former was approximately 1mm shorter than the latter, so, naturally, I decided to go with the PMC OAL.
I have a pristine bullet and some powder that I inertiaed from a PMC round, so I thought I'd use the bullet to set the bullet depth/OAL in a primerless, powderless, once-shot case. Short story shorter, using the die's locking ring, I locked the Lee kit's die so that it will now push in a bullet to the depth that the reloaded round will be "extremely close" to the OAL of that randomly-chosen PMC round.
Then I inertiaed that bullet out of the once-fired case. I'll use that bullet again to complete my first reloaded round in my life. I'll fire that round before doing any more reloading. If the now-twice-fired case ejects and re-chambers easily, I'll be off to the reloading races. I'm pumped!
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Ya it’s pretty exciting, I just started a year ago and still remember how pumped I was too completing and shooting my first rounds, today I am starting my third caliber and guess what? Still just as excited as the first and second time around! Have fun it’s a blast!Great post, Dogleg!
FWIW, yesterday evening I decided to do some further preliminary case and Lee-kit-adjustment work in preparation for the arrival of my inferior bullets and inferior primers in a few days.
As someone previously recommended in this thread, first I chamfered the primer pocket a smidgen (smidgen being a tad less than a bit) in order to make the inferior primer installation easier.
Then I deburred/chamfered the case where one inserts the projectile.
After doing those two things, I decided to set the depth that the Lee kit's bullet-seater will insert the bullet. To get some idea of how deep the bullet should be inserted, I measured the OAL of one of my PMC bronze cartridges using a cheap, inaccurate Princess Auto digital caliper that I've been using for the past 15 years and compared that number to the Lee kit's recommended OAL. The former was approximately 1mm shorter than the latter, so, naturally, I decided to go with the PMC OAL.
I have a pristine bullet and some powder that I inertiaed from a PMC round, so I thought I'd use the bullet to set the bullet depth/OAL in a primerless, powderless, once-shot case. Short story shorter, using the die's locking ring, I locked the Lee kit's die so that it will now push in a bullet to the depth that the reloaded round will be "extremely close" to the OAL of that randomly-chosen PMC round.
Then I inertiaed that bullet out of the once-fired case. I'll use that bullet again to complete my first reloaded round in my life. I'll fire that round before doing any more reloading. If the now-twice-fired case ejects and re-chambers easily, I'll be off to the reloading races. I'm pumped!
To make a long story as short as I can, I went to Edmonton's Phoenix Indoor Range yesterday and shot on their 40-yard range. I reported the loads I used here:
https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/threads/subsonic-223-with-titegroup.1867224/post-21271029
Now I'm a bit embarrassed to post photos of my shots fired. My "rifle" has a Bushnell TRS-25 1x red dot.
My first objective was to get some fps data for various loads of Titegroup powder, as that post linked above details. I rented from Phoenix a Labradar chronograph and spent considerable time fidgeting around with it trying to get it to recognize speeds from around 600 fps up to just over 2000 fps, which required changing the Labradar general setting from "pistol" to "rifle" on the chrono. I used a Phoenix-provided front rest for the smaller target with the cross, with a setting of 1 foot from barrel to chronograph. My concentration was much more on the chrono than accuracy of the shot (to make some excuses for my imprecision). After the chrono work was the fun stuff, which was similar to the video of the young woman shooting a paper moose (but definitely no running from the target to the shooting position). This is the kind of shooting I enjoy.
(BTW, the single shot in the upper small target with cross was made by a PMC bronze commercial load fired off-hand standing. The shot above the lower right circle was my first "fun" attempt at holding the gun with arms extended.)
(More on topic, I filed down my DIY 22LR-case powder scoop so that it now delivers approximately 3.1 grains of Titegroup very reliabaly.)
The full-size target
Target used for chrono work (red dot zeroed at a target about 12 yards from muzzle with laser; the 223s were probably still rising after that distance to the 40-yard target, and this accounts for the general grouping well above the cross)
Fun time after chrono work. All off hand (free-standing), with many shots fired with a pistol-like hold with arms outstreched, which is quite a challenge for me.
https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/threads/subsonic-223-with-titegroup.1867224/post-21271029
Now I'm a bit embarrassed to post photos of my shots fired. My "rifle" has a Bushnell TRS-25 1x red dot.
My first objective was to get some fps data for various loads of Titegroup powder, as that post linked above details. I rented from Phoenix a Labradar chronograph and spent considerable time fidgeting around with it trying to get it to recognize speeds from around 600 fps up to just over 2000 fps, which required changing the Labradar general setting from "pistol" to "rifle" on the chrono. I used a Phoenix-provided front rest for the smaller target with the cross, with a setting of 1 foot from barrel to chronograph. My concentration was much more on the chrono than accuracy of the shot (to make some excuses for my imprecision
). After the chrono work was the fun stuff, which was similar to the video of the young woman shooting a paper moose (but definitely no running from the target to the shooting position). This is the kind of shooting I enjoy.(BTW, the single shot in the upper small target with cross was made by a PMC bronze commercial load fired off-hand standing. The shot above the lower right circle was my first "fun" attempt at holding the gun with arms extended.)
(More on topic, I filed down my DIY 22LR-case powder scoop so that it now delivers approximately 3.1 grains of Titegroup very reliabaly.)
The full-size target
Target used for chrono work (red dot zeroed at a target about 12 yards from muzzle with laser; the 223s were probably still rising after that distance to the 40-yard target, and this accounts for the general grouping well above the cross)
Fun time after chrono work. All off hand (free-standing), with many shots fired with a pistol-like hold with arms outstreched, which is quite a challenge for me.
I guess it depends on the scale, I bought two of same make but rated to diff max load and they both show same weight, very fast and show same weight over and over with accuracy of 0.01gn. I'm very happy with them.
What make/how much did they cost?
Good digital scales are OK, it's the cheap stuff that's problematic. Like my RCBS one that came with a press kit.
