Bear Protection Shotgun

I can't wait to see the fish cops reaction when I wear mine in the boat fishing. It's not a firearm sensu strictu so f*ck them.........

And legally we are required to have signalling devices on board, which is what it is.

Sweet, would make sure to have flares in the tanker under-arm ammo carrier....now...how to rationalize the rubber buckshot deterrent shells, bear banger blast marks, video footage, and youtube episode....ha!
 
Then why did you bring up hunting guides and dangerous game hunters?


What specifically makes a rifle a better choice? Energy? Velocity? Penetration? Size of the hole? If it's clearly a better choice then surely you can explain why?

Are we talking the sort of rifles most people carry in North America - stuff in the 243win through 300mag range? Or do you only mean big stuff like 375s and up?

How many bears have you shot with a rifle, how many with a shotgun?

Did you notice any difference in their response after being shot ?
 
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I've seen 12 gauge open choked slug guns suggested for grizzly-stopping (which by the way, as with cape buffalo, is a whole different game than grizzly-hunting, and it's surprising to me how few Canadians get this, even in grizzly range. As compared to say the African countries where this sort of knowledge is general.) Apparently some slugs are tougher than others and that's what you want, you don't want a projectile that is going to mushroom, you want maximum penetration in the stopping gun. More commonly i have seen the .375 H&H or Ruger recommended. I have never seen any pro worth their salt recommend a 30 cal for grizzly safety. Not the ubiquitous .300 winmag, not the .30-06, certainly not a .30-30(!). Nor the 33's nor 35's. Recommended is .375 and up. 45-70 is often cited and i once carried one, but after seeing enough real-world examples of lousy performance on really big animals i moved 'up' to a .375H&H, which has never failed for me on the same class critters. If you go .45-70, in a modern Marlin for instance, you gotta handload to .450 Marlin specs - or get a .450 Marlin which should be fine. You want tough, heavy-for-calibre bullets for high sectional density with good frontal area (not spitzer rounds. Not fast expansion rounds.) Medium-low (highest teens) to medium velocities (22-2500) are your friend, high velocities are not. Other candidates - 9.3x62 (.366) perhaps, .404 Jeffery, i've even seen .416 Rigby suggested as not being too much when your ass is on the line with a griz incoming. Carry the right gun and carry spray, that's the word of the pros. The science is that spray is effective on griz in the high 90's percentiles. There's plenty of ol' boys out there who will tell you spray is useless, "just seasoning." Don't listen to those guys, they're only trumpeting their ignorance.
 
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Model 12 18.5" barrel 6 shots capable of slamfire. Slept with this old girl many times in my tent with Mr Grizz sniffing around. Never shot a bear with it but snuffed a pair of inquisitive coyotes one night.
 

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I've seen 12 gauge open choked slug guns suggested for grizzly-stopping (which by the way, as with cape buffalo, is a whole different game than grizzly-hunting, and it's surprising to me how few Canadians get this, even in grizzly range. As compared to say the African countries where this sort of knowledge is general.) Apparently some slugs are tougher than others and that's what you want, you don't want a projectile that is going to mushroom, you want maximum penetration in the stopping gun. More commonly i have seen the .375 H&H or Ruger recommended. I have never seen any pro worth their salt recommend at 30 cal for grizzly safety. Not the ubiquitous .300 winmag, not the .30-06, certainly not a .30-30(!). Nor the 33's nor 35's. Recommended is .375 and up. 45-70 is often cited and i once carried one, but after seeing enough real-world examples of lousy performance on really big animals i moved up to a .375H&H, which has never failed for me on the same class critters. If you go .45-70, in a modern Marlin for instance, you gotta handload to .450 Marlin specs - or get a .450 Marlin which should be fine. You want tough, heavy-for-calibre bullets for high sectional density with good frontal area (not spitzer rounds. Not fast expansion rounds.) .404 Jeffery, i've even seen .416 Rigby suggested as not being too much when your ass in on the line with a griz incoming. Carry the right gun and carry spray. The science is that spray is effective on griz in the high 90's percentiles. There's plenty of ol' boys out there who will tell you spray is useless, "just seasoning." Don't listen to those guys, they're only trumpeting their ignorance.
.375 H&H and .454 Casull.

The Leupold 1.5x5x20 is in QD rings.

My work rig.


But when I was starting out and money was tight this is what I carried at work sites. Because it was cheap and powerful.

 
Here's the data from a bullet test rifle shooter mag did with 300wm at 50yds.

View attachment 1129672
https://www.rifleshootermag.com/editorial/ballistics-test-best-300-win-mag-loads-market/83865

The video I shared of the Federal TruBall deep penetrator test went 32.5".

What is more, 32.5, or 27.5?


Hard slugs have little to no expansion, meaning all the energy goes to penetrating. Most rifle bullets - even the really stout stuff like TSX and Swift Aframes - are losing energy to expansion.
I recovered a 338wm 250 grn swift aframe from the far side of a grizzly. Nice wound channel, stopped against the hide on the far shoulder. Smashed through part of that plate attached to the shoulder touched the top of the lungs, severed that big pipe coming out of the top of the heart, missed the leg bone on the far side and stopped against the hide. And retained 98% of it's original weight.
 
Then why did you bring up hunting guides and dangerous game hunters?


What specifically makes a rifle a better choice? Energy? Velocity? Penetration? Size of the hole? If it's clearly a better choice then surely you can explain why?

Are we talking the sort of rifles most people carry in North America - stuff in the 243win through 300mag range? Or do you only mean big stuff like 375s and up?

Guides and Big Game hunters were mentioned as an example. Apologies that you are unable to connect the dots.
All of the above. Read more. Learn.
It has been explained why, by several folks right here on this very thread.
You don't get it, and yet it's so simple and obvious.

Use the appropriate and best tool for the job. When it comes to bear protection, that tool isn't a shotgun.

R.
 
Cool thread. Have taken a few bear ( the black variety) with rifles of various calibres and archery equipment and everything worked as it should. Only one bear defence incident about 40 years ago I was hunting grouse and had a bear charging in quickly about 30 yards. I shouted loud maybe twice then put the bead on its nose and squeezed one off. The bear dropped at 4 yards as the load of #6 smacked it at the base of the skull where it meets the spine and made an awful big hole 🕳️. Bear was stone dead and I wasn’t. lol. And ya, I soiled myself. Didn’t have a bear tag but season was open, called the MNR and he told me to go buy a tag. Lol, and I did.
While I do think a suitable rifle is a better choice there is absolutely no question that a shotgun with slugs is also perfectly adequate.
Carry on Nutz, it’s a fun thread.
 
I've seen 12 gauge open choked slug guns suggested for grizzly-stopping (which by the way, as with cape buffalo, is a whole different game than grizzly-hunting, and it's surprising to me how few Canadians get this, even in grizzly range. As compared to say the African countries where this sort of knowledge is general.) Apparently some slugs are tougher than others and that's what you want, you don't want a projectile that is going to mushroom, you want maximum penetration in the stopping gun. More commonly i have seen the .375 H&H or Ruger recommended. I have never seen any pro worth their salt recommend a 30 cal for grizzly safety. Not the ubiquitous .300 winmag, not the .30-06, certainly not a .30-30(!). Nor the 33's nor 35's. Recommended is .375 and up. 45-70 is often cited and i once carried one, but after seeing enough real-world examples of lousy performance on really big animals i moved 'up' to a .375H&H, which has never failed for me on the same class critters. If you go .45-70, in a modern Marlin for instance, you gotta handload to .450 Marlin specs - or get a .450 Marlin which should be fine. You want tough, heavy-for-calibre bullets for high sectional density with good frontal area (not spitzer rounds. Not fast expansion rounds.) Medium-low (highest teens) to medium velocities (22-2500) are your friend, high velocities are not. Other candidates - 9.3x62 (.366) perhaps, .404 Jeffery, i've even seen .416 Rigby suggested as not being too much when your ass is on the line with a griz incoming. Carry the right gun and carry spray, that's the word of the pros. The science is that spray is effective on griz in the high 90's percentiles. There's plenty of ol' boys out there who will tell you spray is useless, "just seasoning." Don't listen to those guys, they're only trumpeting their ignorance.
My Kanaduh field belt. IMHO gun or spray is not a zero sum game. Stack the odds in your own favour I say..

 
You are using an emotionally driven apples to pears argument, and showing ridiculous data to try and make it something it can’t simply be.
Any solid bullet.. out of pretty much any centre fire rifle, shot at the same distance will out penetrate a shotgun slug. Every. Single. Time.
It’s math and physics. Reality.
If slugs were so great, then why aren’t they the go to for renowned bear, big and dangerous game hunters around the world? They aren’t. Because they don’t work.

R.
Just how dead does this bear have to be exactly? Big hole through heart/lung vs. .30 hole through heart/lung/ far side rib?
 
Guides and Big Game hunters were mentioned as an example. Apologies that you are unable to connect the dots.
All of the above. Read more. Learn.
It has been explained why, by several folks right here on this very thread.
You don't get it, and yet it's so simple and obvious.

Use the appropriate and best tool for the job. When it comes to bear protection, that tool isn't a shotgun.

R.
RMan, do you talk to everyone like this, or just on the internet? I don't get the impression that Suther is looking to pick on you...

Have a look at geologist's setup above. What is that rifle? 18-20" barrel? Maybe a Mauser or Mod 70 action? If so, CRF and box magazine? Powerful medium bore cartridge? An absolutely perfect bear setup. Probably couldn't have chosen something more appropriate.

At the same time, what's that setup cost? $2500? More? What does it take to be confident and competent with a rifle like that? I don't know the answers to those questions, exactly. But you can see how a 12ga for a few hundred bucks, that is easy to use/employ, that will give you adequate penetration (not great, but adequate enough) might be a great choice, all things considered.

You keep telling him that using a 12ga for bear defense is a "myth". What could that possibly mean? That it's never been done in the history of bears or shotguns? That if you try it, you'll turn into a pumpkin? That the bear will turn into a pumpkin, and still eat you anyway? I don't get it.

I would not choose a 12ga for bear defense in a world of all possible options under all possible conditions. But it's not inadequate. It will obviously work. It has been used successfully on countless occasions. It's cheap. It's easy. It versatile. It's reliable.

Give poor Suther a break.
 
RMan, do you talk to everyone like this, or just on the internet? I don't get the impression that Suther is looking to pick on you...

Have a look at geologist's setup above. What is that rifle? 18-20" barrel? Maybe a Mauser or Mod 70 action? If so, CRF and box magazine? Powerful medium bore cartridge? An absolutely perfect bear setup. Probably couldn't have chosen something more appropriate.

At the same time, what's that setup cost? $2500? More? What does it take to be confident and competent with a rifle like that? I don't know the answers to those questions, exactly. But you can see how a 12ga for a few hundred bucks, that is easy to use/employ, that will give you adequate penetration (not great, but adequate enough) might be a great choice, all things considered.

You keep telling him that using a 12ga for bear defense is a "myth". What could that possibly mean? That it's never been done in the history of bears or shotguns? That if you try it, you'll turn into a pumpkin? That the bear will turn into a pumpkin, and still eat you anyway? I don't get it.

I would not choose a 12ga for bear defense in a world of all possible options under all possible conditions. But it's not inadequate. It will obviously work. It has been used successfully on countless occasions. It's cheap. It's easy. It versatile. It's reliable.

Give poor Suther a break.
It's a BRNO 602. Bought many years ago from I think, Crazy Davey.

BRNO/CZs are cheap for what you get. All steel, even the magazine floor plate is machined steel, not stamped steel, MIM or even worse plastic. Machined steel.

The bolt disassembles without tools, valuable for me as I can clean and degrease it in the field so that when the weather gets cold I run it DRY.

Some guys say they need to have work done on their BRNO/CZs to make them reliable but I've done nothing to my 602 other than have a gunsmith chop the barrel to 20", re-install the front sight base and replace the front sight bead with a lower one to make the express sights POA work and removed the front sling stud and replaced it with a barrel mount sling.

Five rounds (six if I press on the extractor which I don't like to do) of 270 grain .375 H&H Failsafes make for a good stopping rifle when the range is short and the presentation angle is terrible.

 
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It's a BRNO 602. Bought many years ago from I think, Crazy Davey.

BRNO/CZs are cheap for what you get. All steel, even the magazine floor plate is machined steel, not stamped steel, MIM or even worse plastic. Machined steel.

The bolt disassembles without tools, valuable for me as I can clean and degrease it in the field so that when the weather gets cold I run it DRY.

Some guys say they need to have work done on their BRNO/CZs to make them reliable but I've done nothing to my 602 other than have a gunsmith chop the barrel to 20", re-install the front sight base and replace the front sight bead with a lower one to make the express sights POA work and removed the front sling stud and replaced it with a barrel mount sling.

Five rounds (six if I press on the ejector which I don't like to do) of 270 grain .375 H&H Failsafes make for a good stopping rifle when the range is short and the presentation angle is terrible.

I was pretty close, then! Beautiful rifle.

I recently came into possession of a ZKK 600 in 7x64. Very big fan.
 
My wife's grandfather was an MP in the 60's/70's and he's mentioned having to dispatch a few bears with Remington's 870's and C1's when the bears got into empty and abanded buildings at a CFB down east. I dont remember what one. But he said the shotgun didn't have any issues.
My ex uncle works for DND and on an arctic trip they had shotguns for polar bear defense. It was the first time he had shot a gun(not at a bear they let the team all do some shooting) I remember he was fairly giddy about it.
So shotguns do hold a place in bear defense.
 
My wife's grandfather was an MP in the 60's/70's and he's mentioned having to dispatch a few bears with Remington's 870's and C1's when the bears got into empty and abanded buildings at a CFB down east. I dont remember what one. But he said the shotgun didn't have any issues.
My ex uncle works for DND and on an arctic trip they had shotguns for polar bear defense. It was the first time he had shot a gun(not at a bear they let the team all do some shooting) I remember he was fairly giddy about it.
So shotguns do hold a place in bear defense.

Shotguns sure have a place. As has been pointed out here many times a shotgun is good for non lethal ammunition and it's also good for when you don't want a rifle bullet flying down a street/through a house/through a barn or something like that.

Shotguns can have some great attributes.

  • There are plenty of shotguns that come basically pre packaged and set up as a convenient to carry, short and easy to manipulate bear defense gun.
  • They are not expensive compared to many rifles used specifically for bear defense.
  • 12 g Ammo is easy to find and you can practice firearm manipulation for pretty cheap using target loads.
  • They usually take 5 or more rounds of ammo in the magazine.
  • For a guy that only has a scoped hunting rifle with a 4 round magazine and a 22" barrel a shotgun is a more convenient to pack on a camping/fishing/hiking trip.
  • A 12 gauge slug has plenty of power to smoke a bear at close range.

I would almost say that the best place the shotgun has for bear defense is so you have a gun when you don't really expect to run into a bear. If you knew you were going to have to duke it out with a grizzly you would be reaching for a rifle.

Phil Shoemaker, when asked about shotguns for bear defense said something along the lines of that he would rather take his 270 or 30-06.
 
Sulun SS-211 over under with 9.8" barrels. Two fireballs and 1-1/8oz slugs going 1610fps for good measure. I only would have to deal with black bears if anything where i am lol
View attachment 1130373

Is that both barrels at once? hahahaha :)

That's actually a decent example of a shotgun to take when you don't expect to duke it out with a bear. It's going to be super compact, way easier to carry than a hunting rifle and if you wait until the bear is close enough that it is opening it's mouth to chomp you, it's going to be effective ! :)
 
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