Hmmm, I always find that ANFO only partially detonates. To get a high yield, you really need to surround it symmetrically & get the multiple primaries to go off simultaneously. This is actually a serious make-work project. Kind of reminds me of those times my wife brings stuff back from Ikea. Anyway, I like TNP (picric acid) primed with silver or mercury fulminate. Lead azide will also initiate TNP and it is better than ANFO. You get a 90% yield so there isn't much evidence left & you don't need nearly as much.
Beaver defense thread
- Thread starter nntw
- Start date
Hmmm, I always find that ANFO only partially detonates. To get a high yield, you really need to surround it symmetrically & get the multiple primaries to go off simultaneously. This is actually a serious make-work project. Kind of reminds me of those times my wife brings stuff back from Ikea. Anyway, I like TNP (picric acid) primed with silver or mercury fulminate. Lead azide will also initiate TNP and it is better than ANFO. You get a 90% yield so there isn't much evidence left & you don't need nearly as much.
I've never noticed how much of the ANFO detonates in surface blasting water sumps or moving overburden etc. There's just a big BOOM, debris raining down and me a good, safe distance away
. You do need something fast like high velocity stick powder to initiate ANFO. I have initiated ANFO with just det cord but prefer to use a partial stick.
BC Bigbore
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- BC's Peace Country
Short of blasting dams, this gent says it best.
I've never noticed how much of the ANFO detonates in surface blasting water sumps or moving overburden etc. There's just a big BOOM, debris raining down and me a good, safe distance away
Just from your discription, I'm guessing only 20-40% of the ANFO actually detonates. The rest just gets scattered around. Obviously it's working for you so it doesn't matter and ANFO is very cheap. Just don't blast your digits off...
Just from your discription, I'm guessing only 20-40% of the ANFO actually detonates. The rest just gets scattered around. Obviously it's working for you so it doesn't matter and ANFO is very cheap. Just don't blast your digits off...
Thanks, my blasting days were back in the 80s when I was a young geologist. No blasting fun for me these days
.We'd use a 1/4 bag or less of ANFO for blasting a small-medium sized water sump in a swamp. You're probably right about the partial ignition. I have seen a +1/2 bag used and the loon5hit seemed close to going into orbit
.Me and my Dad do alot of beaver control for our local RMs. Most places we hunt we don't have to worry about noice and nieghbors. My Dad will use his 22WMR or my 22-250 if he is not worried about keeping prime pelts. I have been useing one of my 204Rs with 30gr Bergers and a reduced load of 19grs of H4895. Very quiet, accurate, hide friendly,and makes the beavers DRT.
Ah yes, "I say we take off and nuke the entire site from orbit. It's the only way to be sure".
The wit and wisdom of Ellen Ripley. Gotta love it!
Thanks to all for their suggestions- very much appreciate them!
- Location
- Somewhere on the Hudson Bay Coast
I've never noticed how much of the ANFO detonates in surface blasting water sumps or moving overburden etc. There's just a big BOOM, debris raining down and me a good, safe distance away
The problem with using ANFO on a water shot is getting it to sink. I've managed it successfully, but by the time I've wrapped the primed charged with plastic and duct tape, and weighted it so it sinks I'm no further ahead than if I had just spent a bit more and used a water proof explosive, Like Austin's 60% extra gel or a high velocity emulsion. By the way, I'm not not a fan of safety fuse; you can't pick the moment of detonation, and too much can change before the blast fires, so I run det cord or shock tube to dry ground and initiate with an electric blasting cap.
The quality of ANFO is determined by the quality of the mix. Just because you use a commercial mix doesn't mean you're getting a good mix. Back when I hand mixed my own, I got a better blend the many commercial mixes, because I got the correct percentage of fuel oil onto the prills. I also made sure I was purchasing blasting prills rather than fertilizer grade prills which do not absorb the fuel oil as readily. Automotive diesel proved to make a less powerful explosive than marine diesel.
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For beaver dams and sumps, I just lashed the charge to the end of a pole (maybe hard for you to find on the tundra
) and wedged it where I needed it.I like the 2:21 minute time of a 1 metre safety fuse, it gives you plenty of time to walk to your shelter spot (good blasters NEVER run). You just need to secure all accesses to the blast site, announce the round and then announce all clear once it fires.
- Location
- Somewhere on the Hudson Bay Coast
The loading pole is a good idea.
My problem with safety fuze is the appearance of a quad, or snowmobile, to say nothing of low flying helicopters shortly after you light it; making the guarding problem impossible. With electric, as soon as its safe to fire the shot, you can blast before conditions change.
My problem with safety fuze is the appearance of a quad, or snowmobile, to say nothing of low flying helicopters shortly after you light it; making the guarding problem impossible. With electric, as soon as its safe to fire the shot, you can blast before conditions change.
For beaver dams I used the sharpened pole that we augered down into the dam with.
If you want more control over the timing of the round you can always prime the charge with det cord, run the det cord to a safe location then tape a safety fuse with a shortened fuse to it (say 6"). Just stand well back from the fuse/det cord when it lets go.
I agree that electric detonation is way better when you need to control the timing of the round.
I like eating beaver too.
Heyoooo!
I betya you eat it raw, though!
I'm talking about roasted beaver.
BC Bigbore
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- BC's Peace Country
Oh man...
Boyz, boyz..
We shoot those furry bastards with what ever is in our hands at the time - as said earlier 308 is effective - the best bang I have found for my buck is a conabear (sp??) it works for you all night - just have someone show you how to set it properly - its easier on the fingers!!
A few years ago I had my boat...70 feet long...tied up south of the Knight Street Bridge in vancouver. In the morning I came back to check the boat and two beavers had "dropped" four big trees from the parking lot right on top of my boat!!! it took us all morning to cut the trees away from the boat and fallen power lines. We couldn't do anything about the beavers who watched us remove the trees!!!
